New smoker business

I definitely designed it to burn straight wood. My requirements were that it perform well burning straight wood and also charcoal. When I cook I usually burn wood until the wrapping stage and then load charcoal overnight. My buddy is coming over this Saturday and we're planning on throwing a brisket on. I'll keep good notes and take lots of pics and post the results.

I will be following that to find out. I wood be interested. As far as all the extras, I like a sturdy, easy to roll wheel base for something like that, so wide based, larger size casters. The rest would be optional for me
 
I like that you are burning wood in a vertical and if I were to buy one I wood plan on mostly wood. Question I have is are you designing that type to burn wood. The reason I am curious is that I have talked to a few vertical builders that make insulated rigs similar to yours and they told me theirs was not meant to burn only wood. I assume it is because wood is hotter?:noidea:
Air flow and efficiency.
 
Direct flow. After talking with several people, I decided that was the way to go. Camo paint I don't see why not! I like it.
Keep in mind: I don't think you will have an issue because of capacity of your current design and I do not know how your diffuser set up is laid out either.

With that being said, I had a monster insulated cabinet that would hold 10 full size hotel pans and was direct flow. Any time I loaded it up with multiple packers and butts it was a grease fire waiting to happen. 3 times was enough for me.

Just something to keep in mind.
 
Keep in mind: I don't think you will have an issue because of capacity of your current design and I do not know how your diffuser set up is laid out either.

With that being said, I had a monster insulated cabinet that would hold 10 full size hotel pans and was direct flow. Any time I loaded it up with multiple packers and butts it was a grease fire waiting to happen. 3 times was enough for me.

Just something to keep in mind.

Thanks for your input LTG. I'm attaching a close up picture of the diffuser/water pan. The cooking grates are situated directly over the pan so the pan should catch a very high percentage of the drippings. The idea is to put a hotel pan in the diffuser and fill with water. So long as there is water in the pan, I figure the drippings wouldn't burn. Even if there's no water, as long as the cooker is cleaned regularly, I'm thinking it will be good. Please let me know if you disagree. I am definitely interested in any input that will help improve the design.
Pete
 

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Air flow and efficiency.

This was one of the main reasons why I chose the direct flow over the reverse. Wanted maximum airflow for stick burning. I'm going to fire it up again this weekend, but after one test, it seems to generate plenty of airflow.
 
I am really excited to see your new business! I had to go to Minnesota for a cooker, and I'd rather not go down that road again ;) Your cooker looks great, and I look forward to see the future models. I hope to make the trek down there when I am able to upgrade again! Cheers!
 
This looks like a fantastic build! The quality looks top notch. Best of luck to a fellow Wisconsinite on your endeavor!

I would echo some of the good feedback on this thread. I dont have any experience with a vertical, but if I were buying, I agree with going wider on the door side to avoid having to reach in for meats, or slide out a rack dripping with grease.

I would also worry about managing the grease that makes it past the water/drip pan. Id be more comfortable knowing that there was an escape route of some sort for the grease that makes it by, so that I wouldnt have to worry about it boiling at the bottom of the firebox so close to a live fire. Just thinking out loud, but how about a gutter system along the inside walls, just below the lowest grate, but high enough above the drip pan so the heat can still get through. If the gutter system overlapped the drip pan dimension, you would have zero grease making it to the firebox. Then maybe tap the gutter system to an outside drain.

I saw your previous thread on the offset trailer build you did. That was very impressive. Insulated in all the right places, top heat on the meats, the sprung hinge hardware...all super nice. If you decide to sell something like that... well, lets face it....I'd be ticked that I could never afford such a thing :).
 
Wisco and Mcspaz, Thanks for the comments, great to hear from you guys. McSpaz that's a great idea about the gutter system. I'm going to have to think on that today. Also, after our next vertical build, the next project is a mini version of the offset that we built. We're planning on making a 24x48 that we'll sell for around $1,700. That's the goal at least:) I appreciate your feedback!
Pete
 
Would be good to get a website - not all of us use Facebook

Love the fact that these can burn stick
 
I like that you are burning wood in a vertical and if I were to buy one I wood plan on mostly wood. Question I have is are you designing that type to burn wood. The reason I am curious is that I have talked to a few vertical builders that make insulated rigs similar to yours and they told me theirs was not meant to burn only wood. I assume it is because wood is hotter?:noidea:

Too Hot - and Flow thru the Walls usually won't draft like a stickburner needs.
 
Looks amazing...great work.

As a recognized expert in all types of outdoor cookers may I add my two cents?

You should seriously consider adding a bottle opener!

Best of luck in your venture!
 
Too Hot - and Flow thru the Walls usually won't draft like a stickburner needs.

Thanks guys, Smitty when you talk about the airflow issue are referring to reverse flow only or do you think it will be a problem with direct flow as well?

Everyone else - thanks for the comments. Website will be up by the end of the weekend. Bottle openers are on order. :grin:
Pete
 
This was one of the main reasons why I chose the direct flow over the reverse. Wanted maximum airflow for stick burning. I'm going to fire it up again this weekend, but after one test, it seems to generate plenty of airflow.

That is why I had my initial question. One of the people I chatted with at a place I contacted that made an insulated vertical, direct heat cooker, told me that their cabinets would not do all wood. I liked that design and wanted to look into getting one, even though they are 3 states away. I think they told me it was the higher heat that would not allow it, just like Smitty said. I would advise you to run multiple wood only burns and monitor the structure to see if there is change in the integrity of the pit. Let me re-emphasize, I AM NO EXPERT, so I don't know the answer to why this won't work but want you to succeed so I have another option for a wood burning cabinet to buy
 
Thanks for the comment jermo. I'm not sure how other cabinets are framed up, but I reinforced this one at the top of the firebox. The smoker is fully framed out with 2" square tube and it's reinforced along the sides as the picture shows. I ran square tube all the way around the side and tack welded the inside skin to the tube. Knowing that I was going to burn wood, I wanted minimize the warpage. I could add more vertical supports along the firebox and that could almost eliminate any warpage entirely. Another thing regarding the heat - the cooker is so efficient that you don't need a raging hot fire in order to hit 250 - 300 or whichever temp you plan on cooking. I'm going to address a lot of the comments/concerns this weekend when I cook. I'm going to add some grease diffusers along the sides, then load it up with pork and brisket and crank the heat way up. Should be a fun experiment!
 

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I would love to be a customer Pete, but it's not a WSM.

Congrats on your start up. I hope to see one in action someday!
 
Thanks for the comment jermo. I'm not sure how other cabinets are framed up, but I reinforced this one at the top of the firebox. The smoker is fully framed out with 2" square tube and it's reinforced along the sides as the picture shows. I ran square tube all the way around the side and tack welded the inside skin to the tube. Knowing that I was going to burn wood, I wanted minimize the warpage. I could add more vertical supports along the firebox and that could almost eliminate any warpage entirely. Another thing regarding the heat - the cooker is so efficient that you don't need a raging hot fire in order to hit 250 - 300 or whichever temp you plan on cooking. I'm going to address a lot of the comments/concerns this weekend when I cook. I'm going to add some grease diffusers along the sides, then load it up with pork and brisket and crank the heat way up. Should be a fun experiment!

I am looking forward to seeing your experiment!
 
I would love to be a customer Pete, but it's not a WSM.

Congrats on your start up. I hope to see one in action someday!

Ha! I saw a wsm on cl a couple weeks ago for 10 bucks and thought of you. I emailed the guy but never heard back. I'm sure it didn't last long.
 
I made a few changes tonight that I thought were worth posting. I added drip guards to the sides and the door. The side guards are highlighted with arrows in the first pictures. They're just roughed in for now, but if they work, I'll make them permanent. The guards are placed about 1/4" off of the sides now, compared with 1" for the rails. When grease hits the guard, it should flow into the hotel pan, or the main steel pan. I also dropped the rail for the drip pan by about 1" in order to make room for a diffuser plate below the drip pan. I'm thinking this will lower the possibility of a flash point flare up. I'm sure the new guards will effect the airflow in some way. We'll find out this weekend:grin:
 

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Nice looking build! Will be following you on FB also... I am intrigued!
 
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