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LifeLongWNYer

Knows what a fatty is.
Joined
Apr 21, 2015
Location
Rochester, NY
This is a new guy question, a really new guy question, but I've never seen this addressed, and am wondering if it has been tried but didn't work.

How about when making a UDS, if I welded 4 short nipples to my drum, for each cooking shelf? What I am thinking of, is placing them on opposite sides of the drum, ( say at 7 and 11 o'clock positions and at 1 and 5 o'clock positions ) with them at the same height, and angled so that a rod can be pushed into one nipple, through the drum, then into the nipple on the opposite side. I would place each "pair" in a few ( to be determined ) inches from the arc of the drum, so that, when inserted, the rods would support a cooking grate.

To prevent smoke and heat leakage, I would cap two of the nipples, using normal pipe caps. In order to insert and remove the rods, I would weld the rods to the other two caps, so I could insert the rod through one nipple, through the drum, and into the opposite nipple, then tighten the cap with the rod until it doesn't leak.

This all came about last night when I was describing ( over a couple of cold adult beverages ) my upcoming UDS build to a buddy. He suggested this arrangement to eliminate the bolts from protruding into the drum, and becoming something that would scratch somebody reaching into the depths of the drum.

In my inexperience, it makes sense, but think there must be some reason that the experts haven't thought of this.




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I would just go with 3 instead of 4. With 3 the grates will sit just fine. With 4 there is a good chance that you will have some wobble.
 
I used adjustable shelve hardware, 3 supports 16" long, then had to cut the brackets to about 2" as all they had were 8". I use 2 grates and position them per what's cooking.
 
I used adjustable shelve hardware, 3 supports 16" long, then had to cut the brackets to about 2" as all they had were 8".

Would you post a picture? I keep thinking about the brackets used for book shelves, and wonder if they can take the heat. I always thought they were "pot metal"..... slag





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Would you post a picture? I keep thinking about the brackets used for book shelves, and wonder if they can take the heat. I always thought they were "pot metal"..... slag





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I do three levels, one for the diffuser, two for grates.

I designed my smokers for adjustability.

Pick up the shelf racks and brackets at Lowes or Home Depot. If you want to hang meat, you can drill holes in the brackets. I cut a set of bracket short for easy removal and access to grates.

I burned the white paint off the guides and brackets. Not sure if it's even necessary once they get seasoned and coated. Been using this design on all my BUFORD's for the last three years or so. They won't melt.

No welding required, guides can be bolted to the drum.


72163889.jpg
 
If your looking for other Ideas i used 3/8 nuts welded to flatbar than made studs to screw into them so my racks are adjustable. I had pics but cant seem to find them.

Look up my uds build and you can see what im talking about
 
Pick up the shelf racks and brackets at Lowes or Home Depot. If you want to hang meat, you can drill holes in the brackets. I cut a set of bracket short for easy removal and access to grates.

Those are what I was thinking of, I didn't think they would take the heat. Do you use the regular brackets that insert into the slots, or make up something stronger?



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Would you post a picture? I keep thinking about the brackets used for book shelves, and wonder if they can take the heat. I always thought they were "pot metal"..... slag





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I don't have a pic of the inside of my UDS, but its the same as smokerking except I cut the brackets back to about 2". They are not "pot metal". I have read that properly installed on a wall they will hold 200 pounds, good enough for me.
 
Those are what I was thinking of, I didn't think they would take the heat. Do you use the regular brackets that insert into the slots, or make up something stronger?



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Nope, use the standard single slot guides and brackets. I install 3 guides, 3 brackets per grate.
 
Got it, Hooked, that worked. I was trying to use the "find all post by...." utility, and that is what I don't have enough time on here to quality for.

Did you make that hinge, or is it available? I would like either the pattern or the source, it you like to pass it on.


Thanks for the help,

JBP
 
Another idea I almost completed was to weld 1/4 coupling nuts in 3 level locations on the outside of the drum at each level ( drilled thru) I was going to place for grates. Using bolts 1/2 inch longer than the coupling nuts. That way I could twist in the bolts at the levels I wanted to use when required, the rest are sealed due to the amount of threads in the coupling nuts. My prior smoker I used bolt-thru supports and found I did not like having to tip grates to get them in/out/swap levels during cooks with meat on them. Almost lost a few meals to the coal basket as they like to roll off when tipped.
Then I saw N8man's grates using carriage bolts which also allow swapping level locations during cooks since each grate has it's own legs and sits on the lower grate if that make sense. And the legs gives you something to set the grates down on, not just the grate on the ground/table etc. I first used 5/16 but ended up going to 3/8X6 ( 3 large butts on a rack is heavy and more stable with the 3/8 in) for my flat lid, 3/8X8 for my dome lid. The 6 inch bolts give plenty of room/height for butts, chickens etc. Just not turkey's.
Just another option.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-nuts/=x5s82i

 
Sounds like more work than needed. I used 3/8x1-1/2" bolts. I've never scraped my arms reaching in, then again I'm usually wearing welding gloves. (You shouldn't be reaching in bare handed wherever there's heat and flame anyway). I also made a long hook to reach down to raise my basket if needed.
 
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