120 Gallon Propane tank build

[dtyates]

You can weld the stainless with mig wire or even Flux core. The composition of stainless steel is very similar to carbon steel. Without the right shielding gas, welds won't look awesome but like stated above, you're not making structural welds, just holding a rack in place.

 

[sshacreaw]

Latest Update:
Yesterday I was able to finish up the racks, install door handles, finish up chimney, install thermometers, get main chamber door put in place. Had to heat up round stock 1/2" in the BGE to get it to bend for handles and the hinges on the main chamber. Put in some stops behind the hinges on the main chamber to keep the door up. Thinking now about adding a handle partway down the door to help get it open and to help reach it to close it.

To finish up tonight I need to put one more slide vent in the front of the firebox, get the final latches on the main chamber, clean up the inside, spray it down with some oil and fire it up. I am going to wait a little while to paint it, maybe a week or so, once I do a couple of cooks to make sure I don't want to mod anything further.

The light is there at the end of the tunnel!

 

[JohnnyB]

When making the flanges on the firebox/warmer door with the angle, do you grind out the inside corner radius to get them to fit flush?

 

[sshacreaw]

When I put my door on, it was sized up to the exact size of the firebox, or it was actually a little bigger so I got to grinding and cutting and got it to the exact size of the firebox, so the inside corner on the angle will fit tight to the door and then it is very close on the box. I wanted to leave a tiny bit of leeway incase the door sagged at all. I have had different experiences with hinges, so I figured leaving 1/8 inch or so for give wouldn't be a terrible thing. I hope this is what you were asking about.

 

[JohnnyB]

That answers it perfect. I used 1"x1"x1/4" angle on my first one, set it up flush to the door, and the inside radius leaves a fairly noticeable gap on the firebox side. Wasn't sure if using a thinner material, or just simply grinding out the radius a bit would work. I liked the idea of a little gap though. In my case the firebox is all stainless, and it definitely warped a bit (which friggan stainless just does) when I had my burn in and had her cranked up until I was satisfied anything in there would die. My plan is to use the trusty sledge to get her back in place, weld some stabilizing pieces to the top and the door, and that should take care of any future movement.

 

[sshacreaw]

My main challenge right now is that my main chamber door doesnt fit tight. I widened it up so that it would fit and now it is too wide, I am going to see how these latches work at drawing it back in. Not sure if that will be enough or not. If not, I will be using the trusty sledge.... Nothing a little elbow grease can't fix. BTW, my angle is thinner. I am not super worried about a little leakage, with my 250 gallon, I get some leakage around main chamber doors and I love that smoker. I have never gotten smoke rings on meat like I have gotten on that 250. It nearly brings a saltly little tear to my eye...

 

[JohnnyB]

On my 120, I had OCD about the main chamber door fitting perfect, so I reworked it so much I warped it to the point I have to remove it, cut the flanges off, and shape it from scratch. In the meantime, I just curled the flange down with pliars in the spots that had big gaps. If I had just left it alone, I would be in better shape. For this one im doing now, im just going to use the hi-temp silicone and fill the gaps. Done deal. I don't mind a little leakage, proper amount of smoke and holding temps aren't an issue. A lot of guys leave their FB doors open anyways, so a little leakage out of there is nothing to worry about either.

 

[sshacreaw]

Anyone ever run into issues running exhaust out of the warming box on a reverse flow? I had a guy tell me I won't get good airflow... Just wanted to get opinions. I guess when I fire it up for the first time I will find out if I can't get to temp...

 

[JohnnyB]

I feel like im stalking your thread. Sorry, but not sorry, haha. That's how the Shirley Fab crew does all their builds, they don't seem to have any issues whatsoever. Do a search for anything Shirley Fab related, and check out their pics.

 

[JohnnyB]

Although, I was wondering about your setup. Having only the one exhaust venting from the warming box, won't that make it just an extension of the cooker? Usually, you'll see a vent direct from the smoke chamber, and then one out of the warmer to regulate temps a bit if needed.

 

[sshacreaw]

Nah, I appreciate your input it has been really productive! I ran some smoke through it tonight and there was no issue drawing air, it was pouring from the exhaust. I put latches on the main chamber and they did an amazing job at sealing it tight. I love those latches. It did run really hot. I have to get used to it. I am used to feeding that 250 gallon cooker. This took some thin sticks and we were up to 400 degrees. I dont think i can even get my 250 cooker to reach 400. But i finally got it down and threw a couple of fatties on there. They turned out fantastic but i really just wanted them for their grease. Soo far soo goodm. Still on track to cook tomorrow eve. I hope to get it painted l weekend. I will throw up some more pictures then. Thanks again JohnnyB!

 

[sshacreaw]

Threw on a quick coat of paint. Did my first cook this past weekend, just some quick pork loins. They turned out great. This filled the need that I had. With a 250 gallon custom, i needed something for the intermediate cooks that wouldnt burn too much fuel. In 2.5 hours I burnt three logs. In my 250 gallon it would have been 8 to 9 logs. Added log holders to the side of the firebox to preheat some logs. However, with as little fuel as was needed to heat the thing i was just throwing my next log in the firebox to preheat, right beside the fire. Pretty happy soo far. Its not perfect but that is kinda my M.O. It will be a good cooker.

 

[RT]

Congrats on the nice build.