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haunas

Knows what a fatty is.
Joined
Jan 3, 2012
Location
Honolulu, HI
I know, I know tried and trued design of 3-4 3/4" pipe fittings w/one or two ball valve. I just couldn't leave good enough alone and wanted to see what everyone thought. On the bottom 1.5" pipe I'd use a t connector with plugs to drain water or ash out from the pipe as well as try to have a pie plate afew 1-2 inches above the bottom and the charcoal basket above that 1-2". I was looking at two grates 6" from top and 6" from next grate but that only leaves 7.5" roughly to the top of the basket which may or may not be a problem. The holes near the rim on the top would be for hanging foods (fish, sausage, char siu, etc)

Use: low and slow as well as high heat

Pros:
Single feed 1.5"
Cleaning via the bottom 1.5" hole


Cons:
Cleaning via the 1.5" bottom hole
Grate to basket distance unless I can find a Weber grill lid that fits on top of the drum and raise all the grates.
Cost (maybe havent done a cost comparison)
 

Attachments

  • UDS Layout1 (1).pdf
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Here's my experience. Other people's mileage may vary. I built a cool looking UDS (second one) a few months ago that had 2 one inch ball valves on 12" risers. I had to do it. I wanted a cool drum like all the others I seen. Truth be told it didn't work very good. Sure I had plenty of intake. But if I wanted to make a temp adjustment openbing one of the valves more didn't seem to do squat. This was a very lazy UDS as far as temp response. 30-45 minutes later and the temp maybe climbed 5-10 degrees with a significant valve change. I couldn't stand it. I removed the risers and put the balls on the nipples straight out. So now I got two 1" valves straight out the drum and it made things so much better. It responds to changes well and I can actually run hotter with less valves being opened. I mean significantly hotter. I used to hold 250 with one valve full open. Now I can run an EASY 300 with the same valve opened. My opinion now is fancy UDS's should be behind glass. Fancy can sometimes kill performance. But that's my opinion only.

Oh and PS use a diffuser and the lower rack being that close to the basket will not be an issue.
 
I was one of the many who read through the entire UDS build thread. I witnessed many people try new ideas. Some worked, but most didn't. The general consensus remained "KISS: Keep It Simple, Stupid!".

The great thing about UDS' are they're cheap and easy to make, so if one has the time and the tools, it can be fun to test out new additions. Many people have riser intakes, but I do recall some having performance issues because of them. The closer the intake got to the same level as the exhaust, the less air was drawn into the intake. In fact, I believe someone posted that their intake became the exhaust. So be aware of the physics behind this.

I kept my measurements per the KISS specs (24" between basket (can't remember if it's top or bottom) and the cooking grate, I believe) and have flawless runs every time. For low and slow pork, I can hang at 225F with only my ball valve open about 1/2-3/4 of the way open. As long as the temps at the cooking level are where you need them depending on your meat, that matters more than distance between fuel and food.

I have a cheap pizza pan wrapped in foil below my basket for quick and easy cleaning. I also have a decent sized covered porch, so water isn't a concern of mine. When straying away from tried and trued methods, just make sure you're not doing so for a big important cook (family reunions, birthday parties, etc).
 
I don't care about the high heat since if I want to grill I will remove the lid or use my Weber. I wanted more of an even burn at a low and slow temp. Which is why I was thinking of a centered pipe. My other thought was to extend a 1" side pipe into the center of the barrel. Also, the riser was for minimizing wind deviations.
 
I posted a question about center intakes before and the general consensus was that the fire is going to draw its oxygen without the under the basket intake.
 
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