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Looks like a sweet setup! It's similar to a rig I have used for controlling mash temperatures in beer making. In my setup the PID cycled my heating element so quickly trying to maintain the setpoint temp that I burned out more than one relay - ended up using a solid state relay. I wonder, have you considered the response time a PID will have in zoning in on the setpoint temp and the effect it may have on your fan and other circuitry? Maybe not an issue, just thought I'd share. In any event, I love the innovation!
 
I have thought about doing something similar but I have been concerned that it would disturb the ash and drop it all over the meat. Is anyone seeing anything like that?
 
Auber has recommended settings for all the PID variables that work for the typical smoker. The fan usually will run for less than 10 seconds at a time to maintain temp. Now, it will run longer bringing up the temp. Of course cycling depends on the set temp versus current temp. Keep in mind that using something that is high current like a heating element will definitely require a solid state relay. I'm using a small DC fan that pulls much less than 1 amp @ 12VDC. According to Auber, the PID controller built-in relay can handle 3 amps.

As far as ash, these fans don't blow with very much pressure/volume. If you watch my video, it is not putting out a tremendous amount of air pressure.
 
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Yes, the range is definitely tunable. Once you enter all the PID parameters (only have to do this once), you use the up/down arrows to select your Set Temp. As an example, for my last cook I set it to 300 for chicken. It stayed there for a little over two hours. After I finished, I changed the Set Temp to 250 to see how it would behave. It took about 15 minutes to reach the set temp then it maintained the temp within 1-2 degrees.

Overall range capability is dependent on the thermocouple you use, but Auber lists min as -328 F to max of 2731 F (don't know how they got that?). Those are crazy numbers, but my thermocouple for example is rated up to a max of 900 F.
 
You have it covered well Sir. I don't see how the thermocouple can be that accurate with such a wide range but I do not doubt it with the advances these days. Most of my temp control was back in the 90's (19 that is). :thumb:
 
Thanks for the info and the link PDP... Here is the PID I bought last year for SV cooking:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=44

Auber support said it would work fine for a small fan like the one you showed above. They sell that fan you show, but it is a little pricy. I'll have to look around and see if I can get it for less. The can idea over the vent is a good one. The way Auber demos it, there are two vents still open.

Hmmm... Will I have to reprogram this PID?
 
I can't vouch for accuracy over a large range, which does seem impossible. I can say that it displays temps identical to my Maverick ET-732 within the range of freezing to 300 degrees.
 
Thanks for the info and the link PDP... Here is the PID I bought last year for SV cooking:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=44

Auber support said it would work fine for a small fan like the one you showed above. They sell that fan you show, but it is a little pricy. I'll have to look around and see if I can get it for less. The can idea over the vent is a good one. The way Auber demos it, there are two vents still open.

Hmmm... Will I have to reprogram this PID?

Based off what the manual says for your PID, I'm sure you will need to tweak some of the parameters from default. For mine, Auber recommends these values P=1.2, I=300, d=70, SouF=0.7. SouF is dampening. I didn't see where your PID has that parameter. I would talk with their Tech Support to verify their recommended settings for a charcoal smoker application, it shouldn't be a problem and changing the parameters are easy (refer to the manual from their website). My concern is that my parameters might not match for your specific PID since yours is used to control a heating element vs. mine controlling a fan. Just make sure you tell them it will be controlling a fan for a charcoal smoker (not electric).
 
That's very cool. Nice build!

I just got a temperature control unit today for a curing fridge and I started thinking about an application like this for it. Good to know its doable. Funny thing is, I don't really want a temperature controller on my UDS, but I do want to build it, well, just because. Great job!
 
Based off what the manual says for your PID, I'm sure you will need to tweak some of the parameters from default. For mine, Auber recommends these values P=1.2, I=300, d=70, SouF=0.7. SouF is dampening. I didn't see where your PID has that parameter. I would talk with their Tech Support to verify their recommended settings for a charcoal smoker application, it shouldn't be a problem and changing the parameters are easy (refer to the manual from their website). My concern is that my parameters might not match for your specific PID since yours is used to control a heating element vs. mine controlling a fan. Just make sure you tell them it will be controlling a fan for a charcoal smoker (not electric).

Thanks. I sent another email off to their support. They are good about responding. I'd rather not have to change anything as I would have to change it back and forth deoending on whether I was using SV or BBQ. But, if I have to, I will.
 
What would you say the operating range is for it? Is the range tunable?

Overall range capability is dependent on the thermocouple you use, but Auber lists min as -328 F to max of 2731 F (don't know how they got that?). Those are crazy numbers, but my thermocouple for example is rated up to a max of 900 F.

You have it covered well Sir. I don't see how the thermocouple can be that accurate with such a wide range but I do not doubt it with the advances these days. Most of my temp control was back in the 90's (19 that is). :thumb:

Per Auber, the input types are:
K (-200~+1300ÂşC), S (-50~+1600ÂşC), WRe3-WRe25 (0~2300ÂşC ), R (-50~+1600ÂşC),
T (-200~400ÂşC), E (-200~900ÂşC), J (-200~1200ÂşC), B (350~1800ÂşC),
Pt100 (-99.9~600.0ÂşC) or (-200~+600ÂşC), Cu50 (-50~150ÂşC)

As you can see, each one has its own range which becomes the range of the device when that device is selected. The overall range could be considered to be from the lowest of any to the highest of any. But at any one time you can only go from the min to the max of the actual one selected and used. In general, thermocouples and similar devices are not linear which means that the mV reading versus temperature reading does not follow a straight line. But it will be close to linear for a portion of the curve and that is generally the range for that device. But close to linear and linear are two different things so each device has inaccuracy due to non-linearity of its curve. How much inaccuracy is dependant on the linearity of the curve of that specific device over its range but is usually on the order of +/- 2C or so. But in saying that, you can get much higher errors in specific places on the curve. For example, a K T/C can have up to a 9C inaccuracy at 1200C but a 1.5C one at 200C. Some such as a T are as low as 0.8C @ 200C. Usually for this type application, a J or K T/C is best. RTDs are similar and depending on class can be more accurate (as low as 0.25C @ 100C but are generally about 1.5C)
 
thermocouples are used for all kinds of things.

For instance, I work in automotive engineering, we use them for everything from extreme cold tests (-40c) up to measuring combustion and exhaust temps from engines in dyno cells, etc.

so they are very versitile testing insturments.
 
Response from Auber this morning:

You can try to set P=300, I=300, d=10, t=15.
If these PID parameters did not work well, you can then try auto tune.

Not really sure what that means, but I'll look at the manual for changing the settings. I work with computers a lot, but every time I read something about how a PID works, my eyes kinda glaze over... :shock:
 
Response from Auber this morning:



Not really sure what that means, but I'll look at the manual for changing the settings. I work with computers a lot, but every time I read something about how a PID works, my eyes kinda glaze over... :shock:

just set it to what they suggest. It does not matter what it means. You dont need to know that part. You dont need to know how a PID works to change the settings.

If that doesnt help them try the auto tune function
 
Not really sure what that means, but I'll look at the manual for changing the settings. I work with computers a lot, but every time I read something about how a PID works, my eyes kinda glaze over... :shock:

A PID is just a math calculation. Error is the difference between the temp you want and the temp you have. The calculation takes the error and calculates the output based on the P, I and D settings sometimes called gains.

P is for proportional which is just basically a muliplication factor. Proportional effectively takes that error and multiplies by a factor. The larger the error, the larger the output based on the P, the smaller the error, the smaller the output based on P. Since as you approach setpoint error decreases toward zero and multipling by a P gain approaches zero, so P alone cannot be used because while you might get close, you will not normally reach setpoint on P alone.

I is integral. This is used for consistent errors. For example as you approach setpoint and P output becomes so small that it is negligible, the output for I is used to close the error to zero when P cannot get there. It is basically a time thing where you keep adding some amount until the error gets to zero.

D is for derivative. It is usually not that helpful in these cases but it is for what is called step or sudden changes in temp. If your temp had a sudden change say downward, derivative would instantaneously add output to try to slow down the quick change.

When I say output, it is in reference to a system where you have an analog output such as a variable speed fan. In the case we are talking about, the output is discrete (on/off) fan so you have to have a range of output that will turn on the fan. For example, output above X turns on the fan.

I have left off several details in my explanation but I think you can get a basic idea of how it works from it.
 
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