Towing Capacity

[harold67wm]

Ya, until you get in an accident.

The GCVWR (gross combined vehicle weight rating) of the trailer and the truck should never be over the rated combined weight amount for the truck or you risk a ticket and fines...even if the trailer ISN't loaded to capacity. The fact that it COULD be is enough to get you in trouble if you get pulled over. If you are in an accident, and you are over the rated weight, you will be ticketed and your insurance company might even decide not to pay the claim. (Insure the trailer, too, it's cheap. The tow vehicle coverage gives you liability coverage on your trailer, but not collision. Don't find that out the hard way.)

As another poster stated, transmission coolers, oil coolers, springs, brake controllers, etc. make it easier to tow, but they do not change the GCVWR.

I went with a small single axle trailer behind my RV because that is what it was rated for. I would feel better with a double axle trailer because it's safer in the event of a trailer tire blow out, but all the double axle trailers would put me over the rated amount.

RV people recommend at least 1 Horse Power on your engine for every 100 pounds of weight being moved. (vehicle and trailer) It's not a bad guide to make sure you have the power you need. Both of my tow vehicles have digital proportional braking controllers - highly recommended.

I can also speak from experience AND Federal law... with 35+ years in the towing & recovery industry.
Actually tow what ever you want to tow with whatever you have... Do it in my area... I need the $$$$$$ from working the accident OR impound (from being illegal)...LOL!
Seriously, Federal law say you MUST maintain a minimum of at-least HALF of your front(steer) axle weight while towing and MUST be within axle ratings... There is a formula at you can that you can use for that!
First, you need to know the true axle weights of your truck and the axle ratings, then the wheel base and overhang of your truck... the wheel base is measured from center of front to center of rear axles, the overhang is measured from center of rear axle to hookup point...
In order to maintain 1/2 of steer weight, take 1/2 of your actual steer axle weight and multiply that by your wheelbase, then divide that number by your overhang, that is the MOST weight that you can apply to the hitch(Hookup point)... Are we done yet??? NO! The next thing is axle ratings... in particular, rear axle... so you need to know the rating of it... take the weight of the rear axle PLUS 1/2 the front axle weight PLUS the weight being applied to the "Hitch" ( tongue weight )... then you have GCVWRs to worry about...