Table for my Weber 22" OTG

Looks like it's coming along very well. That's some heavy duty framing you got there, should last you a long time!

Nie work! Looks good so far. Can't wait to see it when your done!

looks like me, and the rest of the brethren could stand on top of that thing. Very nice, cant wait to see the rest of it!

Great start, I look forward to seeing it when you're done. Have you given any thought as to how you are going to handle a hot lid while cooking? I don't see any signs of hooks or other holders yet...

I saw this on TVWBB and wondered the same thing about the lid? (as I was futzing with my WSM lids with my cart)

Looking forward to the finished product.

Great idea

Looks great, Cant wait to see finished product.

Thgis is looking really good. What are you going yo cover the cement board with?

Looking good so far. Keep the pics coming please! John

Sweet, can't wait to see the finished product

It's looking good so far. Is quarry tile your choice for the finished top? Be sure to make a provision for a soft joint around the perimeter of the tile against the framing; you wont regret it.

Tile and stone is where I've spent the last 30 years.

Ping me if you need any tips.

Chris

Carbon said:

Thanks guys! I have a day off tomorrow so I'll continue to work on this project and provide more photos.

My next step is to chop the handles off both sides of the kettle and see how well the kettle fits into the cutout before tiling the board.


Chris: Thanks for that tip on the soft joint around the perimeter. I figured since I won't be grouting between the tiles and the wood frame it shouldn't present a problem? I also figured some greasy gunk will eventually make their way between the tiles and the wood frame providing a natural filler. Do you think that would be sufficient?
I will be using some extra 1/2" quarry tiles I have laying around from a previous tiling job which will match well with my existing outdoor tiles. I intend to break them into chunks.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

You really need to fill the perimeter joint. That greasy gunk becomes bacteria central, and then it becomes acidic and you'll eventually see rot.

After you lay the tiles, let them set up completely. Then stuff the perimeter joint with some cord or rope before you grout the tiles. When you've done the final clean up the grout, remove the cord. Then caulk it with some good quality silicone.

For this table, I'd spend the few extra dollars and use an epoxy grout. Harder to work with, but it's very resistant to staining and bacteria. It's what they use to grout the floors in commercial kitchens.

Good luck,

Chris

LATICRETE® SpectraLOCK, Hydroment 1900, Mapei Kerapoxy, Custom Building Products 100% Solids Epoxy Grout are all good products. The first two are easiest to work with. All will give you a strong, high performance surface that will be very sanitary. You'll be able to scrub it down and hose it off.

You may be able to get them at Lowe's or Home Depot. If you're close to Anaheim, a few calls to some of the places down on "Tile Mile" should get you a source for any of them. Here's the web sites for all of them.

www.laticrete.com

www.bostik-us.com

www.mapei.us

www.custombuildingproducts.com

For the silicone? GE or Dow Corning...none better.

Chris

Learnin Querve said:

You really need to fill the perimeter joint.......caulk it with some good quality silicone.

For this table, I'd spend the few extra dollars and use an epoxy grout.

Click to expand...

Yeah I agree on both counts. A good 100% silicone product will stay there and seal the perimeter joint well and it will also bond to both the tile and grout as well as the wood trim. Make sure you leave enough room for a nice sized bead...it'll help it bond.

Also--the epoxy grout is some mean stuff. No need to have to seal the grout as the epoxy is impervious to staining and moisture. Youll have even more limited working time and less (if any) forgiveness if you don't get the excess wiped off before it sets, but a small (comparatively) area like your table top should make it easier.

I have seen some epoxy grout "leech" into and under the small voids of the thinset mortar (especially if a larger square notched trowel is used to apply the thinset, causing small holes or "dimples" in the grout surface. This was corrected with a "touch up" application the next day, but just so you're prepared.....

Good luck!

Wampus said:

I have seen some epoxy grout "leech" into and under the small voids of the thinset mortar (especially if a larger square notched trowel is used to apply the thinset, causing small holes or "dimples" in the grout surface. This was corrected with a "touch up" application the next day, but just so you're prepared.....

Good luck!

Click to expand...

Yes, that is a characteristic of epoxy. They generate heat and will flow into any voids under the tiles. You can avoid it by using a sufficient notch trowel and then bedding the tiles well into the thin-set to avoid gaps underneath the installed tiles.

Some secrets...Let the thin-set set for at least 2-3 days before grouting with epoxy or you'll get pinholes in the grout. Follow mixing instructions exactly, and don't under-mix. Get it out of the pail as soon as it is mixed. It will set faster in the pail than it will spread out some on a scrap of cardboard.

After you use the float to get as much off of the surface of the tile as possible, you can use some hot water and a scotch-brite pad to get the remaining residue off. Just be careful and try not to disturb the fresh grout joints. If it looks clean, but feels tacky to the touch the next day, use the hot water and scotch-brite again, with a little dish soap.

Save about a cup or two of the leftover uncured epoxy and put it into a plastic throwaway container. Stick it in the freezer (it will stop the curing process). The day after grouting, take it out of the freezer and let it come to ambient temp while you inspect grouted surface for low spots and holes. Use the now warm epoxy for any required touch ups. Let it all cure and you'll have a damn near bullet proof table top that will be easy to clean and resist attack from oils and marinade acids.

Ping me if have more questions.

Chris