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BriKW

Is lookin for wood to cook with.
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Location
Dobson north Carolina
After about six cooks on my UDS, I noticed something about its characteristics that I was wondering if others have observed. I'm running a UDS with a flat lid. It has your standard large and small bung, and my original plane was to Leave those plugged, and drill the eight 3/4 inch holes in the lid, which I did.

I also have two 1 inch holes, and one 3/4 inch ball valve as drafts two inches from the bottom. In other words, a pretty standard design UDS.

On my first cook I noticed it either wanted to run at an extremely low temp with two of the 1 inch holes plugged, and the 3/4 inch ball valve wide open. So I would partially uncover a 1 inch hole about 1/3. After about 30 minutes the temp would be between 280 - 300. So I would close the 1 inch hole back up and after an hour or so the temp would fall back to 200. Well I wanted it to settle at 230 - 250. But I couldn't ever get it to do just that. It was either climbing or dropping out.

My guess was that it wasn't a draft problem, but an exhaust problem. To test this I removed the 2 inch bung and the smaller bung. With one inch holes closed and the ball valve closed about a 1/4 I can run my drum at a solid 235 - 240 and it doesn't hardly ever vary 10 degrees one way or the other which is good, great in fact.

What I find puzzling is after removing my lid to flip or spritz, the temp drops out to 195, but after putting the lid back on I expected the temp to spike high and then come back down like Ive read about here so often. For me that hasn't happend. What does happen is the temp slowly rises back to 235 - 240 and stops. No spike. Has any one else experienced this, or do I have a super special UDS? LoL

Not complaining, just wondering if the extra exhaust has anything to do with it other than just the 8 3/4 inch holes.
 
Sounds perfect to me. I rarely get a spike. Mines set up like yours but without the bungs, just the star shape pattern of holes.
 
Ok, well then I guess my UDS ain't super special after all. Good to know I don't have an odd ball. Thought for some odd reason I might have done something wrong and for some strange reason it all works out for the best.

Happy Qing to you all.
 
Ok, well then I guess my UDS ain't super special after all. Good to know I don't have an odd ball. Thought for some odd reason I might have done something wrong and for some strange reason it all works out for the best.

Happy Qing to you all.

Leave that lid off long enough and yull get them spikes..... Believe that!!! But on the real tip, if you listen carefully, yull hear the fire start to catch and Kindle.. Then u know u better put that lid back on

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 
I guess you're right. I never left mine off long enough to really get to sizzling. Normally I remove the lid, spritz real quick and put the lid back on. So I guess I'm just to fast for it. :becky:
 
I now have an auber on my UDS, but I did run it natural draft a number of times first. I used 3/4" street Ells on mine, and one 3/4 ball valve. Just a gut feeling but the open ells with a fridge magnet on them seem a LOT more consistent and predictable than the ball valve for some reason. You can punch a hole in a magnetic business card for another option too. I have (4) Ells and the ball valve...I pretty much stopped using the ball valve because the Ells with some degree of blockage from magnets seemed more consistent.

I think a very slight breeze that is changing directions can mess with temperature too...the magnets with 1/4" holes on ALL helps balance that out, then fine tune with covering part of one opening.

Just my .02. And my flat lid has eight 1/2" drilled holes in it.

Bill
 
Toss a pizza pan on top of the basket once lit and see where she settles. I have a head deflector made from the lid just sitting on top of my charcoal, she loves 225-235
 
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