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If you are going from a wide open fire box door to completely shut that may be your problem. It is best to close the door a little bit at a time. For example, when I put a new split or two on I will start with the door wide open for 5 min or so. Then move the door about 3/4 for a few min, then 1/2, then 1/4, then open latch, and finally closed. The whole time keeping the pin wheel dampers wide open. This keeps the draft going properly and prevents smoldering due to quick changes in air flow. Of course wind plays a factor and I adjust my technique as necessary.

Also, when starting the fire you may be using too much charcoal. I use about 1 chimney and 5 splits and a lpg torch to start it.

And people say a PitBoss has a complex startup procedure..
 
I had the exact same issue with my Klose smoker.

One issue that did help a lot but did not totally resolve the problem; moved the smoker as my smoker was up against my back fence.
Klose suggested to try a few cooks with the firebox facing the middle of the backyard, I first thought 'whatever' ... but it actually did help quite a bit.

I ultimately had to accept that this particular size Klose (20x36 with 20x20 FB) was just not designed as well .... I had to accept that I would not be worried and pissed at the idea of the FB door 'needing' to be open.

Split size is important but if this is your problem, if you can open the door, even just a slight crack to find that those same splits do burn it is draw / fb size / fb vent size.

Everyone I hear of has a 60, the 48 I am sure should just work and again perhaps it will have to just work with the door at varying stages of open.

After I figured it all out, I cooked many nice runs .... and then even though I just said I had just had to accept it ... I didn't. Sold the Klose.
 
I’d just cook with firebox door partially Open. I’ve had Smokers where I had to leave firebox door Open a lil bit, had smokers than Ran Hot so I Left the cook chamber door Open 1/2” or so. Had a cpl I Had to run with a desktop fan blowing into the intake. Borrowed an Ok Joe Longhorn while Up in Oklahoma that had a Rusted out pull out ash pan so I covered it in about 10 layers of Aluminum foil. Whatever Worked as Long as Meat came out Good..............
 
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I had a the same Lang 48 patio with the same problem as you. After a lot of trial and error, I basically ended up resigned to the fact that the door needed to be left open a crack for most conditions in order to get enough air intake to maintain a proper coal base. I tried various split sizes, loading frequency, preheating procedures, etc. and concluded that the vents on the sides just simply weren't big enough to run with the door fully closed in most instances. Really not a big deal, just the thought that if they would have made the intake vents bigger to begin with, you could always throttle them down when necessary.
 
Thank you all for the input and advice guys! Looking at enduros comment got me thinking of what someone said on another forum. Said to make a damper on the door itself. Would this actually fix the problem or would be the same as just cracking the door?
 
You could make a intake on the door.
But, like I said. You have to add splits anyways which requires opening the door. Just leave the door open a crack or what ever it needs.
Real easy to do.
Your choice.
 
Your in good company Aaron Franklin runs his smokers with FB doors open.
 
I sold a Lang 48 to a guy a month or so ago and never had an issue. Not sure what’s going on but you shouldn’t have to leave the door open.
 
I have heard too many good thing about langs for this to be something that isn’t fixable. Take a full video of your entire process of lighting your charcoal to the point where you expect the stack to be clear and post it here and I will do whatever I can to help get you on the right track
 
I still say like in the begining the wood is not seasoned and is green . :biggrin1:
I agree. Seems like the OP had wood that worked in the other offset. Should be seasoned, right? Only way to be sure is to split them in half and see if you can close the door without it smoldering.

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I had a the same Lang 48 patio with the same problem as you. After a lot of trial and error, I basically ended up resigned to the fact that the door needed to be left open a crack for most conditions in order to get enough air intake to maintain a proper coal base. I tried various split sizes, loading frequency, preheating procedures, etc. and concluded that the vents on the sides just simply weren't big enough to run with the door fully closed in most instances. Really not a big deal, just the thought that if they would have made the intake vents bigger to begin with, you could always throttle them down when necessary.

To the OP, if you attack this problem with the belief that the cooker is faulty you may limit your view of possible solutions.There are quite a few of us lang owners here, this is the first time I have heard of one not drafting. Never experienced any draft issues myself, other than when my chimney was plugged. IMHO you have a well engineered machine that works as advertised.
 
Have you contacted the manufacturer requesting assistance? Have they offered any help?
You shouldn't need to adjust airflow with the door, there's a reason why it has dampners on the door.
 
I spoke with Ben a little bit on Monday. Told me I needed a bigger coal bed. Im going to try and buy some different wood again this weekend. I have tried from 3 different suppliers. I bought some pecan from a supplier about an hour away. Assured me that it is seasoned and will burn or they would drive to my house and pick it up free of charge and full refund. Still had the same issue with it. I’m also going to I’ve the smoker in different spots in my backyard and try there as well. Maybe it my positioning of the thing that is causing the issue. Again thank you all. I will keep you guys posted on what I find.
 
Never cooked on a 48, but my 84 won’t put a fire out with 3 of the 4 vents totally closed. If you have too big of a fire and cut the air back too much it will smolder some, but you would have to work hard to kill the fire. Unless it is too small or the wood is wet.

I think your issue is with the wood. Not enough and maybe not dry enough. Charcoal is OK to get wood lit, but it doesn’t really add much to the coal bed. Half a lit chimney is all you need. Put that in first, and then stack up 6-7 of your splits or maybe 4-5 larger ones, criss crossing for airflow. Open the cook chamber door and leave the FB door open until most of the logs are burning and you have significant flame then shut the FB door. No need for half measures or slow incremental closing.

Within a handful of seconds you should see a decent flow of smoke flowing around the RF plate into the cook chamber. Let it run like that for a bit and if the fire doesn’t die, shut the cook chamber door and watch to see smoke flowing out of the stack. It should be flowing not just a trickle. Add more wood and keep adding wood until the cook chamber is 300+ and holding there.

If there is good flow, it should burn and if it doesn’t it is your wood. If not figure out where the blockage is. It could be an air pressure issue with wind wrapping around obstructions like a wall or fence so try to get it where the intakes and stack are in the open.

The start of the cook takes a lot more wood than fire maintenance. Put in a lot more than you think you need and add logs before you think you need to. Run like this for an hour or more to build up a coal bed. I usually figure 60-90 minutes of burn before I put the food on. If new logs don’t catch fairly quickly, they are too wet or your coal bed is too small.
 
Try a bag of kiln dried splits. Those are overseasoned and should burn easily.

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Put it on a trailer and Head to Burleson and We’ll cook on it til we figure it out.......
Oh Ya ,, bring about 4 Briskets and 8 racks of St Louis cuts.......... :thumb: I got the wood.
 
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