Cedar table for a BGE - help with design/construction technique

jcinadr

Knows what a fatty is.
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Location
Austin...
This thread will probably become a construction in process thread, I am starting the process of building a home for my Big Green Egg. But first, I would like some advice to a woodworking question. Please add any other Big Green Egg Table advise as well.


I have a woodworking question –when building indoor furniture, I tend to prefer to peg and glue. I have built outdoor furniture on an assembly line before, where we used pegged over screws (perhaps very marginally better than screws alone, as pegging them over prevents visible rust). I am about to build a table for a BGE out of cedar with a poured concrete top and lower shelf (a heavy beast), with wheels to provide some ability to move (so there will be lateral stress). What does the hive think I should use as joinery? Bolts would give the advantage of being able to repair the table and accommodate shrinkage. Glue with bolts would be somewhat stronger to deal with lateral stress, but much harder to repair. Peg and glue, I just do not know if I am inviting rot, how well the “hardwood” pegs hold up outside, how well will pegs deal with cedar shrinkage (does kiln dried cedar shrink like cedar decking and fencing?). I could also use hidden pegs – which may be more rot resistant.

fwiw - my honest normal method of construction is glue, clamp, screw. Then a week or so latter I unscrew and peg. It allows me to build faster with a limited supply of clamps. Clamping before screwing snugs everything up much tighter, but limits the number of popped screws (and the screw digging into the wood). Once the screws are in place, I can remove the clamps and start over at another location. Might need to pick up another 4 pipe clamps this weekend, you can never have too many pipe clamps.


On a second note - I leaning towards a pair of large wagon wheels and giving it a garden cart look (the axle would be set close to the Egg so they would carry most of the weight), abet that will interfere with cleaning and adjusting the egg some. Far side could have smaller casters or wheels. Any opinions on this thought.

I have not finished the CAD drawings. My CAD program does not do round, so wheels are killing me, not to mention modeling the egg itself. I still need to add some braces, play with the lower shelf heigh, and add a pedestal for the egg. Nothing unique about the design as modeled so far - basic table. As designed it is 33.5 high, with a 1.5" overhang on the top. The top will be 60x32, with the Egg centered. I plan on having a solid lower shelf, with the egg raised above it (so there will be a shallow shelf under the egg itself. I am leaning this way to give more height to the shelves on the side, but recognize this may need to be in part or whole sacrificed due to the height of the casters on the far end. I could very well end up with a split level bottom shelf - I really want the extra height at least on one side.



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Cedar has oils that will corrode steel which will turn the wood black. You should at least use galvanized, aluminum, or preferably stainless fasteners anywhere they come in contact with cedar.

Looking forward to your build.
 
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Cedar has oils that will corrode steel which will turn the wood black. You should at least use galvanized fasteners, preferably stainless ones anywhere they come in contact with cedar.

Looking forward to your build.

That is GOOD, sage advice.

Look forward to the build.
 
I've built two and used cedar both times. I'm pretty sure I used stainless screws for almost everything although I may have used a few triple coat deck screws on some areas.

In both cases I thought I would just let them go gray but I found that it was just too hard to keep clean so this past winter I sanded one down and put on a few coats of exterior poly and have been very happy with it.

I'm planning to sand and seal the other this next winter.

Here is a picture of one upon completion.



I pretty much used the plans from the naked wiz with some extra mods.

http://www.nakedwhiz.com/cart.htm
 
My son has built several items, including outdoor fish cleaning tables with the KregTool system. This link shows several "kits" that get pretty fancy, Kyle just uses the "mini", their entry level tool MSRP of $22, but I think its cheaper at the big box stores.. I got his a Lowes.
http://www.kregtool.com/pocket-hole-jigs-prodlist.html
Very strong, easy to use and with SS screws it's a lifetime build! Good luck, I'm gonna follow along and hopefully learn something.
 
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It sounds like you don't intend to move it so the middle position can make sense. If you do intend to move it, off center like Oldyote's is easier to move.
 
Will post a picture with the intended wheel - but the wagon wheel will cause a significant offset - the axle will be near the egg and 1/3 of the table will be cantilevered. There may be a little more weight on the far end, but 30" wheels should smooth out the bumps. My wife vetoed the 2 wheel idea, so the far end will be supported by casters - which I will be forced to design around.
 
Composite is a good idea for the top. I poured a lot of cement as a yute during a summer job, so part of the fun of this is doing a poured concrete top. Wood work is a hobby of mine, one which I have way too little time to enjoy. When I do do a project, I often overly complicate it just to have a bit more fun doing it. Probably why none of my finished projects have had a single nail or screw in them for a long time. Honestly, I would dove tail this thing if I thought it would make a better finished project - but that is entirely inappropriate. I already have been considering using blind tendon joints - but need to draw the line somewhere.
 
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Well, here is the drawing of what I had though I intended. It has numerous obvious design flaws. I might try to clean up this design a bit more, or who knows might ditch it entirely.
 
Ok, going to ditch that design. Here is the last drawing of it. Was using 5' top, 4x4 legs, and 6" caster. That created the following problems: The shelf was not wide enough to hold what I wanted, access to the shelf was limited because of the legs, and the bottom shelf was too high to really allow room for a second shelf. Next design will be 6' top, 2x4 legs, and 3" casters. The 2x4 legs will allow the shelf to be inside of the legs - added bonus. (Was tired last night - not sure what happened to the 4th leg and caster. Oh well.

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