Thought I Had My UDS Planned Out, Now I'm Not Sure.

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Little Mike

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Thought I had my plan all set, now I'm not so sure. In another current thread (didn't want to hijack another Brethren's thread) he was reporting on what he found to be the inefficiency of the drum with a kettle lid versus the flat lid. My plan WAS, and may still be but looking for some feedback from those with the experience to speak knowledgeably on it, to install the aluminum flat stock mod for the lid. Seal that along the bottom edge with high temp RTV. Install rope gasket with RTV around the top to help seal the lid even better and also possibly add a couple of hook latches to hold it down snug. Lastly add some additional exhaust ports to the lid beyond just the daisy wheel. I wanted to go the way of the kettle lid for the extra space up top. The wife's favorite smoked meat is turkey but I'm guessing like many others I don't often smoke just one thing at a time and the added space will allow for additional cuts.
All input and advice on this plan as a whole, and more specifically if it will maintain the efficiency of the drum, would be greatly appreciated.
 
Mike, it sounds like you have a solid plan. I would also keep the flat lid if something goes wrong. Not sure that you need extra exhaust on the kettle lid .
 
I run extra exhausts on my kettle lid in the form of another daisy wheel. No problems with efficiency and can run one 2" intake 1/2 open to get 300° easy.
 
Pig_Farmer said:
I would also keep the flat lid if something goes wrong. Not sure that you need extra exhaust on the kettle lid .
Click to expand...
Thanks! I’m planning on keeping the flat lid even though it’s a little warped. The extra exhaust port will be cappable but figured I’d put it on for a couple reasons. First being it’s not a Weber lid and the openings in the daisy wheel look like they may be a bit small. The other is in case I want to open it all up for higher temps at the end, say to crisp some skin on wings or something, I’ll have that option.
 
I'd go with 2 more daisy wheels. I have eight 5/8" holes in my flat top.
I have not yet done the Weber top inside aluminum strip mod yet, - I have a top, gotta get motivated -but if it isn't air tight upon installation, it will soon seal itself up.


The other good thing about the Weber lid is it sheds water nicely with a good cover.
 
You can do like 500 degrees on a kettle with the regular exhaust - don't overthink it. I have a weber lid on my SS UDS and never had any issues with temps.
Click to expand...
That's good to know -

I always figured one exhaust was too little - on a UDS!
 
Last edited:
Don't make a different thread change your plans. I had minor hell sealing up the Dome to my sS drum- but that could be attributed to my incompetence. Lots of people have done the lid install like you want to attempt and pulled it off. My drum works ok now- but I won't do another UDS where I have to cobble the dome to a drum. Flat lid all the way.

your mileage may vary.
 
foam2 said:
You can do like 500 degrees on a kettle with the regular exhaust - don't overthink it. I have a weber lid on my SS UDS and never had any issues with temps.
Click to expand...

I know I could reach those kind of temps on a kettle with the regular exhaust, but that's a lot less space and area to create an updraft in. My thinking, which IS usually in the over category, was that the increased volume of the drum would require additional exhaust in order to maintain the updraft and draw on the intakes.
 
was that the increased volume of the drum would require additional exhaust in order to maintain the updraft and draw on the intakes.
Click to expand...
and you control the air flow from the bottom. I agree.
I vote for more holes if you use a Weber lid. You will choke the fire otherwise.
Like I said, 2 more pinwheels.
 
ground down the lip so it fit the lid, never had a problem with breathing, nor consumption
 
Little Mike - as long as the lid fits well you are golden. I know channahon is a little far from me (I live by O’Hare) but if you want to see my drum run or take measurements reach out to me and I would be more than happy to help you out.
 
I am probably in the minority but I would think the stock damper is plenty. If you are going to raise the temp to crisp chicken skin it would take a while opening up your additional exhaust. If you need to get high temps just take the lid off for 5 minutes and your there.
 
You have a solid plan. The only thing I would tell you is to test it out before doing to much. Get your weber lid fit and run a small fire to see where and what you need to seal. Once you fix that, then run a test cook before adding more exhaust holes. If you like the way it cooks, stop building it and keep on cooking!!
 
foam2 said:
Little Mike - as long as the lid fits well you are golden. I know channahon is a little far from me (I live by O’Hare) but if you want to see my drum run or take measurements reach out to me and I would be more than happy to help you out.
Click to expand...

Thank you, that's a very generous offer and I might just take you up on it. I'm still pretty early in the build, probably start drilling pilot holes tonight. The weather is not going to cooperate anytime soon so after the burnout it will probably be a while before I we have decent enough weather for me to clean it out from the burn, paint it, and season it. Everything I've read so far says to not waste any time between the cleaning and the painting and seasoning or you will be fighting rust. But once I get it all done, if it doesn't run right, I may reach out to you. You're not that far, I drive to Northlake for work everyday.
 
Little Mike said:
My plan WAS, and may still be but looking for some feedback from those with the experience to speak knowledgeably on it, to install the aluminum flat stock mod for the lid. Seal that along the bottom edge with high temp RTV. Install rope gasket with RTV around the top to help seal the lid even better and also possibly add a couple of hook latches to hold it down snug. Lastly add some additional exhaust ports to the lid beyond just the daisy wheel. I wanted to go the way of the kettle lid for the extra space up top.
Click to expand...
A Weber lid pinwheel flows more than a knock off lid's pinwheel. Weber are more towards the top/center than the knock offs which typically are off to one side.
In colder weather, I could not get to 300* with lots of meat loaded using a knock off dome lid and it's pinwheel.
You do not need to do all that sealing with RTV and rope seal. If your sealing surfaces are flat/level. The drum/lid will seal up fine after a few cooks.
As far as efficiency, I found no difference between my flat lid and my dome lid. And the folded/pop riveted welding blanket was of NO added benefit for heat retention.
Decide how/what you want your drum to be able to cook at. Then figure out what you will need for intake and exhaust.
 

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if you have the donor kettle you can trim the bottom part of the kettle to sit in your uds rather than try the strip of aluminum. That way you know it will fit the lid without issue. I can send a photo of the one I made at work.
 
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The holes in the side are for hanging like the pit barrel. I used a magnet to cover the hole when not in use.


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On the stainless drum you can see it is running between 275 & 300.


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