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-   -   Ugly Drum Smoker (https://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23436)

smokestack 07-13-2008 10:32 AM

I can't find a food grade barrel, but can get a couple free barrels from a local garage that had new motor oil in them - If I clean and burn them out, would they be safe to use? I think I read somewhere in this thread that metal doesn't absorb liquids

jiarby 07-13-2008 12:14 PM

you're not looking very hard...

http://www.scrantoncooperage.com/drums.html

smokestack 07-13-2008 12:48 PM

thanks for the link- searched the web for them many times- never came up with anything that local- they are only about 40 miles away -will call tomorrow

jiarby 07-13-2008 02:43 PM

you're welcome///

I googled "steel drum scranton" after seeing NE PA in your profile.
A new open top 23"x36" drumm will cost $40-50ish. Well worth it to not worry about chemicals PLUS all the labor saved in cleaning, burn out, paint, etc....

Hook_Line_and_Sinker 07-13-2008 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norcoredneck (Post 685040)
One valve is all that is needed. If you go full open and don't get temp,remove cap and throttle back on valve. With 3/4" nipples I find at most I ever needed was 1 cap off 1/2 throttle valve. i put 3 nipples when making it , 1 for reserve.

Note to this: if with one valve and one cap open you don't get temp ... check the following
  1. if you have 100 lbs of butts and brisket - your meat load is HIGH - it will take more fire to heat a large load to temp - or longer time to cook at lower temp
  2. Lid or exhaust openings - 8 ea 1/2 holes in a flat lid is the minimum - none caped or closed - bigger exhausts up to 1 in should only be attempted with great caution - so if you have less than 8 1/2 holes get them, if you have them check the other items listed
  3. moist fuel - charcoal absorbs water vapor and this will give you temp problems, keep it dry and in sealed containers
  4. patience - the UDS is controlled by the air intake - any changes to the air intake my take up to 30 or more to settle - wildly changing the intake and opening the lid every 5 minutes will only get you erratic results - have a drink take a chill pill and have faith
  5. spend some quality time with your UDS when its new to get a feel for how its going to run for you - then you can set it and forget it - really

Dick Danger 07-13-2008 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stiltz6ft9in (Post 684889)
How many ball valves do you guys have in the bottom? It looks like Norecoredneck's post he has 3. I getting ready to finish mine up. This is where I'm stuck.

I was going to go with ball valves but laziness and not having a welder got in my way. I drilled a single 1-3/8" hole and use magnets to regulate the temp, works great.

Rookie'48 07-14-2008 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dick Danger (Post 685345)
I was going to go with ball valves but laziness and not having a welder got in my way. I drilled a single 1-3/8" hole and use magnets to regulate the temp, works great.

Another way of simplfiying things!

HB-BBQ 07-14-2008 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hook_Line_and_Sinker (Post 685215)
Note to this: if with one valve and one cap open you don't get temp ... check the following
  1. if you have 100 lbs of butts and brisket - your meat load is HIGH - it will take more fire to heat a large load to temp - or longer time to cook at lower temp
  2. Lid or exhaust openings - 8 ea 1/2 holes in a flat lid is the minimum - none caped or closed - bigger exhausts up to 1 in should only be attempted with great caution - so if you have less than 8 1/2 holes get them, if you have them check the other items listed
  3. moist fuel - charcoal absorbs water vapor and this will give you temp problems, keep it dry and in sealed containers
  4. patience - the UDS is controlled by the air intake - any changes to the air intake my take up to 30 or more to settle - wildly changing the intake and opening the lid every 5 minutes will only get you erratic results - have a drink take a chill pill and have faith
  5. spend some quality time with your UDS when its new to get a feel for how its going to run for you - then you can set it and forget it - really

Nice beginner guide HLS!

Mark 07-14-2008 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smokestack (Post 685050)
I can't find a food grade barrel, but can get a couple free barrels from a local garage that had new motor oil in them - If I clean and burn them out, would they be safe to use? I think I read somewhere in this thread that metal doesn't absorb liquids

Yeah; a good scrub with hot soapy water followed by a good burn should do the job.

DUFFYGOULD 07-14-2008 04:58 PM

I was wondering if anyone has mods for their UDS to grill with it too.

I'm looking at making one but I'm interested in grilling with it too. is that possible?

Norcoredneck 07-14-2008 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DUFFYGOULD (Post 686033)
I was wondering if anyone has mods for their UDS to grill with it too.

I'm looking at making one but I'm interested in grilling with it too. is that possible?

You could add a set of bolts/grate supports at correct height and place coals on that and grill on upper rack. I have a project in the works :twisted: that is going to be the all around Redneck Backyard Cooker. Stand By!

chinesebob 07-14-2008 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norcoredneck (Post 686135)
You could add a set of bolts/grate supports at correct height and place coals on that and grill on upper rack. I have a project in the works :twisted: that is going to be the all around Redneck Backyard Cooker. Stand By!

I actually made a modified basket out of expanded metal with two inch angle iron. The point of the angle welded to the bottom of the basket. I was going to weld two small sections of angle iron to the sides of the basket and then use rebar across them to set the basket on top of.

So four 1.5" pieces of angle welded to the side in a v. rebar across the barrel, sitting in the v and then the basket on top, sitting on the rebar.

When you aren't grilling you can just set the basket on the bottom of the barrel, though it may not be enough clearance.....

chinesebob 07-14-2008 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jiarby (Post 685207)
you're welcome///

I googled "steel drum scranton" after seeing NE PA in your profile.
A new open top 23"x36" drumm will cost $40-50ish. Well worth it to not worry about chemicals PLUS all the labor saved in cleaning, burn out, paint, etc....

Look for reconditioned drums if you can. They should be cheaper and are just as clean minus a final washing to rinse them out.

BobF 07-14-2008 08:18 PM

OK 3 days after finding this thread, I read it all. Got a drum in the backyard soon to be a UDS.
I may attempt to add a means of supporting the basket at grilling height like Chinesebob and Norco just mentioned.
Thanks guys for the great read.

jgh1204 07-14-2008 08:22 PM

This may be in the thread somewhere, but the 22" cheapo replacement grills at Academy are too small. Need to use the true Weber replacements or put in several more supports.


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