Utility Trailer for Comps

I run w/ a 5x8 open utility trailer. I use one scissor jack at the back of the trailer and 2 more to support the corners of the ramp. So my 5x8 becomes a 5x11.5 w/ a few jacks.

It's not impressive at all, but we also like playing the underdog at comps. I'd love to upgrade to a 6x12 tandem.

Mark
 
My refurbished Backwoods Competitor will be ready soon and I've been thinking about how to move it around to comps, etc. Right now, a 4'x8' or 5'x8' utility trailer seems reasonable and the price fits my budget, not to mention I can use it for around the house yard projects. A co-worker knows a couple getting ready for a divorce and I may be able to pick up a fold up utiity trailer. I'm not sure that is exactly what I want, but the space it takes up is making me think about it a little more.

My question would be, for those who have used utility trailers to get your stuff to comps, what things should I be looking for in a utility trailer or maybe more important, what should I avoid. Maybe the better question would be, any suggestions before pulling the trigger on a utility trailer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Make sure that it will handle the weight that you will be loading. Ice chest get pretty heavy when fully loaded. Water, coal, drinks, not sure what all you will be loading on the trailer other than the smoker. The small trailers usually have small tires. I would try and stay away from the 8" wheels if at all posible.
 
I had a fold up trailer like you mention and it was okay for my WSMs. When I got my Superior I upgraded to a 7x14 dual axle with extra height. It makes prepping, cooking, and sleeping so much easier. Worth the money and resale is pretty good if you decide to get out of comp cooking down the road, or if you upgrade.
 
I've been checking on the thread through out the day and see that most folks have the same reponse. I need enough room to manage my supplies, cookers, a place to prep and a place to sleep would be nice. How about this for an economy Comp trailer? I did not include flooring, but I can if anyone is interested and you can upgrade to a ramp door for $238.

Trailer Type: 2011 Extreme BBQ-Econo-Comp
Color:
Cabinet Color:
Axles: (2) 3500# Torsion Axles

Width: 7 ft
Length: 14 ft
Height: 7 ft
Model #: MOTMSX714TA2


Standard Features:


FRAME


FULLY UNDERCOATED STEEL FRAME


Z POST WALL SUPPORTS


TUBE ROOF CROSSMEMBERS


LEAF SPRING AXLES


EZ LUBE HUBS


ELECTRIC BRAKES


GEL CELL BATTERY BREAKAWAY KIT


2-5/16" COUPLER


SAFETY CHAINS & HOOKS


2000# BLACK PAINTED MANUAL JACK


16" O/C ROOF CROSSMEMBERS


16" O/C WALL SUPPORTS


24" O/C FLOOR CROSSMEMBERS


NO INTERIOR WHEELBOXES


FLAT FLOOR DESIGN


FLAT FRONT DESIGN





INTERIOR


3/4" ADVANTECH SUB FLOOR


FLOOR COVER IS OPTIONAL


DOUBLE REAR CARGO DOORS


3/8" PLYWOOD WALLS


OPEN STUD CEILING


TIE DOWNS ARE OPTIONAL


(1) ROOF VENT


(1) DOME LIGHT WITH SWITCH ON LIGHT


WIRE GROMMETS





EXTERIOR


1.5" UPPER RUB RAIL TRIM


1.5" LOWER RUB RAIL TRIM


.030 ALUMINUM


COLOR MATCHED FRONT VERTICALS


SCREWS ON SEAMS


ONE-PIECE ALUMINUM ROOF


GRAY MOD WHEELS


ST205/75D15/LRC BIAS PLY TIRES


ALUMINUM FENDERS


32" SIDE DOOR - 405 SERIES


STANDARD FLUSH LOCK ON SIDE DOOR


CARGO DOOR HOLDBACKS


DOUBLE REAR CARGO DOORS


ZINC PLATED HINGES


CAM BAR LOCK


ZINC PLATED DOOR HARDWARE


24" HIGH ATP STONEGUARD


7-WAY PLUG


INCANDESCENT CLEARANCE LIGHTS


(1) SET OF INCANDESCENT BRAKE LIGHTS






Selected Options:
14 ft UPGRADE TO 16" O/C FLOOR CROSSMEMBERS FROM 24" O/C / FT

14 ft 12" ADDITIONAL HEIGHT / FT

*** REAR DOOR OPENING DOES NOT EXCEED 7' HEIGHT UNLESS OPTIONED SEPARATELY ***


*** ENTRANCE DOOR WILL NOT EXCEED 78" ***


1 UPGRADE FROM 3500# SPRING AXLES TO 3500# TORSION AXLES - TANDEM (SS & MSX)

1 UPGRADE TO 32" 455 SERIES DOOR W/ SCREEN DOOR

SCREEN DOOR INCLUDED


TINTED WINDOW INCLUDED


FMVSS LOCK INCLUDED


1 120V PACKAGE #1

30 AMP BREAKER BOX


EXTERIOR POWER INLET (MOTORBASE) WITH 25' SHORE CORD


(2) INTERIOR RECEPTS


(2) 48" FLUORESCENT LIGHTS WITH WALL SWITCH - RECESSED IF POSSIBLE


14 ft UPGRADE WALLS & CEILINGS FROM WHITE VINYL TO SCREWLESS ALUMINUM / FT

14 ft INSULATED WALLS / FT (STD HEIGHT THRU 18" EXTRA HEIGHT)

*** 1" E.P.S. (STYROFOAM) ***


14 ft INSULATED CEILING / FT

*** 1" E.P.S. (STYROFOAM) ***


1 13,500 BTU LOW PROFILE A/C (9.5" OVERALL HEIGHT) - DOMETIC

THERMOSTAT IS OPTIONAL (THERMOSTAT IS REQUIRED ON DUCTED UNITS)


DUCTING IS OPTIONAL


HEAT STRIP IS OPTIONAL


4 RECESSED FLOOR D-RING (5000# CAPACITY)

1 HEAT STRIP FOR ROOF TOP AC

2 PAIR FLIP DOWN STABILIZER JACKS 2000# RATING

Pending manufacturer approval

Regular Price:

$8,385.00

DEALER DISCOUNT (-5%):

$-419.25

Final Price:

$7,966.00
 
Matt, I'd be a little leary putting a Backwoods Competitor on a small utility trailer. Especially a 4x8. With the hight of the Competitior, if you stand it straight up the trailer is going to be tippy. You'll need to lay it down and that won't be easy to pick up when you get to a comp or get back home.

Just something to keep in mind when looking at trailers. You'll what something you won't need to worry.

I hadn't really considered that Ray. The more I'm reading the more I'm thinking of holding out until I can get a larger enclosed trailer.
 
A larger trailer is great but you should go for the open trailer for now and see how you like it and think a while on what you really want.
 
I have built out an 6X12 single axle trailer for comp. It includes frp walls & ceilings, air conditioning, heat, lights, counter, pressure water system with holding tank, inverter, marine deep cycle batteries, etc. I'm now looking for a 16-18 foot toy hauler because of the weight and need an inside potty. Getting too old to use the bush or the porta pottys at comps. Don't need any of the new designer ailments out there.

Start with with what you can afford that will be safe and then dream for the better thing.
 
I'm a bit claustrophobic so I like the having a trailer I can see out of in all directions. I'm hoping to have a custom unit built, but until then, I use a 16' 5 ton equipment trailer that I had. I built wooden side rails for it and have everything mounted on it so I can throw and EZ up over it and start cooking. I have enough room and it set up so 2-3 of us can be up on the trailer working at once without getting in each others way too much. The really nice thing is I come home and back it up under a 10x20 carport and it stays set up ready to roll for the next time.

You could probably do the same with a 12-14 foot landscaping trailer that they sell everywhere for less than the price of your cooker.

Check out this rig that Kapn built
 
A BWS Competitor is too big to move around on a regular basis imo. I used to have one that I mounted permanently on fairly heavy duty 5x8 open trailer. Enough room for a couple coolers, tables and ezup. Cooked right on the open trailer, worked pretty well and didnt throw my back out moving a 400lb cooker.
 
No matter what you get, make sure you get the spare tire. We blew out each of the wheels on the utility trailer we used last year on seperate weeks. Got lucky that both only threw tread and we were able to get the tires replaced fairly quickly, but never know what things will happen.
 
Really look at the quality of trailers. My boss paid 3900 for a 6x12 wells cargo enclosed trailer that is junk. We paid 5400 for a 7x16 H&H (no longer in business) that is leagues ahead of his. Ceiling height is huge unless you wear a hardhat. That said, you can pour alot of money into an enclosed trailer getting it to where Getyourrubon's trailer is. Wished I would have went that route. The nice thing about a cargo style trailer is you can use it for lots of other things. I've moved my folks, trips to the lumberyard, you name it. Bad thing is people want to borrow it. Learn to say NO
 
A BWS Competitor is too big to move around on a regular basis imo. I used to have one that I mounted permanently on fairly heavy duty 5x8 open trailer. Enough room for a couple coolers, tables and ezup. Cooked right on the open trailer, worked pretty well and didnt throw my back out moving a 400lb cooker.

Couple of pics, not great quality but you get the idea. I bolted the BWS to the deck and then used ratchet strap to provide more stability when traveling.

t4.gif



t6.gif
 
Where you taking the trailer? If you are going further than Nevada you'll want a decent size wheel. 8" wheels will be spinning well over twice as fast as your truck wheels (you're the engineer - would an 8" wheel spin 3.14 times around compared to a 16" wheel?). Friction and speed could lead to a horrible start to a competition when the barring seize up and the BWS ends up in the ditch.

The competitor is definitely a two person task to roll around on non-paved surfaces and loading into many trailers. I could get it into the Qchen myself because it sat low to the ground, but I can not load it myself onto Don's utility trailer or our toy hauler due to the angle of incline.

Matt, keep checking craigslist this winter. I bet you can find a 5x10 enclosed for around $1200. That won't be tall enough to work out of (may not be tall enough for the Competitor either), but it will pull nice behind your truck and you could sleep in it most months of the year - just make sure to open the rear when the sun goes down to let the heat out and take a fan.

If you get a 6x12, it would probably be tall enough to work out of, but unless you put on AC, you won't want that in the summer. My Dakota (4.7L) pulled our 6x12 with the Competitor, but I think it was near it's max. A WDH would have helped level the load. I forgot if you have a Tundra or a Tacoma.

Don has a 5x10 utility trailer. You might check it out to give you ideas.
 
Kevin (smokinit) used to have a trailer with a Competitor and 2 Fatboys mounted on it. I used it once or twice it was a nice setup. I forget how big it was, shoot him a PM he may have pics
 
I am in the market for a used cargo style trailer in DFW area. Worn out dragging our huge smoker to every comp on the weekends.
 
A BWS Competitor is too big to move around on a regular basis imo. I used to have one that I mounted permanently on fairly heavy duty 5x8 open trailer. Enough room for a couple coolers, tables and ezup. Cooked right on the open trailer, worked pretty well and didnt throw my back out moving a 400lb cooker.


rolled a BWS Comp in and out of a trailer for a couple years---hard work--especially when
the ramp is slippery!! now it(and a BWS Pro jr) are mounted on the back of trailer under shelter--works great!
 
I use a Haulmart 6X12 tandem axle. Bought it used for $2800. Added 12 florescent RV lights and cabinets from a big box home store. Electric brakes are a must. Had to do a rather fast stop once on the freeway. Brakes probably paid for the whole thing easy.
 
good set of ramps and put some tie downs inside it if it doesnt have it already and a spare..thats about it if all you are using it for is hauling...i ended up picking up a new 5x8 haulmark this year..the used ones were going for almost the same price and didnt last long on craigslist..
Im real happy with it for hauling all my stuff to comps and not having to deal with u-haul
 
Give dual axles a lot of consideration. I know some folks who lost every piece of equipment they had when a tire blew out on their single axle trailer on the highway. Fortunately, no one was hurt but everything in the trailer and the trailer was damaged beyond repair. That was a dangerous situation for everyone on the road around the trailer rolling at highway speeds when it flipped.

I know another fellow who has a dual axle trailer. The lug bolts sheered off of one of his tires on the highway but he was able to pull off the road and repair the wheel and get back on the road. If he had a single axle trailer, things would have been different. He was hauling four smokers and one of them weighs 600 pounds.
 
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