Temperature issues pellet conversion kit

2002sheds

Is lookin for wood to cook with.
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Hi Brothers,
I converted a CharGriller offset smoker to pellet about a year ago by using one of those kits available via Alibaba, which uses a G2 controller, similar if not identical to Pit Boss or Louisiana Grills.

For the most parts, the “Franken-grill” works pretty well. It doesn’t hurt that we live in a mild climate (Northern California), so we don’t get super cold temps.

The issue that I have had all along, and certainly more recently with colder temperatures is that it is difficult for me to get the smoker up to higher temperatures, and it is pretty difficult to maintain temperatures above 250 degrees.

I am wondering if I’d have mounted the temperature feedback probe for the controller too close to the fire pit. Currently, it sits at grill level at the edge of the cooking chamber closest to the hopper/control box.

I am open to other possible ways to improve the performance of this smoker. The main reason I like the conversion is the cast iron grates and large cooking surface.

Thanks,
David
 
Im not sure its going to matter where you put the temp probe, because if its not reaching the set temp on the controller, then that's not a probe location issue, that's a controller/design issue. And the fact you bought this controller straight from china, you are already off to a bad start. Can you even get a manual in english that mentions auger feed rates? Because it sounds like the controller isn't pushing enough pellets through the auger to get up to the target temps you have set on the controller.
 
Hi Its,
Thanks for the reply. Sorry if I didn’t explain the issue correctly… the Franken-grill gets up to temperature just fine when it is warmer, but it seems as if it struggles to keep up if the temperature outside is in the 50s.

The control unit is identical in every way to the one sold on Amazon and elsewhere (pic below). I can probably find a manual online, but to my knowledge, there is not a P-setting on this controller.

Thanks,
David
 

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I've heard that "assumptions are the mother of all Eff Ups". But assuming that the direct from China unit is exactly the same as the retail one from Louisiana Grills is about all you have to go on. Not linking it- but if you search YouTube for "Louisiana Grill LG 900 not maintaining temp (FIX)" (Duane Jones), you might get some insight into your issues. His video is not great... lots of "shaky cam" but he goes thru all the settings that LG suggested in some pages that they sent to him. It could help you...

Good luck on your quest, sir.
 
Something else to consider: You said it was a bit colder...but wind will play havoc with cookers as much (or more) than the cold. An improvised wind block might help.
 
Hi Nuco,
Thanks very much— I will check that video out next… I also ordered a replacement RTD that is meant to fit this controller instead of the “Traeger” model. The way this unit was originally sold was as a “Traeger”, when it is becoming more obvious that if it is indeed the same as something else, it will be the Louisiana Grill…

I used to manufacture footwear in China, and while knockoffs are definitely a major thing, they are typically for smaller ticket items. What happens a lot more often than people realize (including the manufacturers themselves) is that the factory will order a little more of the components than they need and keep putting together whatever they are making after their order is complete (sometimes with, sometimes without branding). It is a way for the factory owner to make a few more bucks, and the worker (typically paid by the piece, not by the hour) gets a little more money as well…

Thanks,
David

I agree about the assumptions bit… and I will also look into a welding blanket and/or a shield for the wind, just to mark those off the list.

Thanks!
 
Hi Nu, Big, All,
I watched the video recommended by Nuco (thanks!) and was very hopeful that I could reset the programming, as the guy in the video had done. Unfortunately, I could not get the control panel to go into program mode, despite trying a bunch of different combinations of keys pressed.

I will try to call Louisiana Grill on the off chance that they will offer advice. In the meantime, I will start looking at welding blankets.

And a slightly off the wall question… have people added a second layer of steel to the lid of their offset smoker with insulation between the out and inner layers? It would be somewhat ugly, but I am after function over form :)


Thanks,
David
 
And one more… are the RTD probes calibrated in any way to the board to which they connect, or is it more about what the connector is at the end of the wires…It is a long shot, but I ordered a Louisiana Grill RTD probe…

Thanks,
David
 
And one more… are the RTD probes calibrated in any way to the board to which they connect, or is it more about what the connector is at the end of the wires…It is a long shot, but I ordered a Louisiana Grill RTD probe…

Thanks,
David

There are a handful of different calibration standards for RTD's but the chances of getting something compatible with what you have are very good. I'd wager that the same factory probably makes them for everyone.
 
Hi Brethren,
I spoke to someone at Louisiana Grills, and they were very helpful. It sounds as if some of the G2 control boards were problematic, and that I will be better off with a Generation 3 or Generation 4 board. Unfortunately, I cannot find a place to buy either online...

Question: Since the control board and corresponding RTD are the important components here (and tell the auger to start, speed up, slow down or stop), might it be possible to use nearly any control board, if the interface to the auger is compatible?

And if so, any recommendations regarding a replacement board?

Thanks,
David
 
Hi Brethren,
I spoke to someone at Louisiana Grills, and they were very helpful. It sounds as if some of the G2 control boards were problematic, and that I will be better off with a Generation 3 or Generation 4 board. Unfortunately, I cannot find a place to buy either online...

Question: Since the control board and corresponding RTD are the important components here (and tell the auger to start, speed up, slow down or stop), might it be possible to use nearly any control board, if the interface to the auger is compatible?

And if so, any recommendations regarding a replacement board?

Thanks,
David


I would buy a recteq controller. Out of all my pellet smokers, the recteq is the best. Barely ever any temp swings.


I was going to add a link but it seems recteq doesn't sell their controller as an upgrade anymore. But maybe you can find one.
 
I have no experience with Lone Star Grillz but they apparently use a controller made by Fireboard which makes really good products, and seems you can buy a replacement controller but its kinda pricey at $400.
 
Hi Its, All,
Thanks very much for the advice! While I can’t swing $400 for a controller, maybe I can find one via eBay or some other source.

Also, as you predicted, I’ve not had success so far finding the recteq controller by itself. I’ll keep searching.

I really appreciate the great info from my “brethren” !!


Thanks,
David
 
Hi Brothers,
My journey of stupidity continues… I purchased a “Pit Boss” replacement controller from Amazon and thought (again, stupidly) that it would just plug and play. Well, not so much…

The controller (pictured below) does have the same type of connectors as those that come off of the motor, fan, power cord, etc., but when I connect the line colored lines (red to red, yellow to yellow, purple to ignitor and black to the power cord), the fan, auger, etc. start running when the controller screen says “off”, and the display screen just blinks when the power is supposed to be on..

This unit has Bluetooth and WiFi capability, so I connected via wireless to see if there was any joy. Unfortunately, while I was able to change the “toggle” on the display of the app from Off to On while the actual controller display still says Off. Worse, my initial happiness of how quickly the grill was heating up was soon offset by the fact that the fire kept getting fed, and the temperature zoomed to 500 degrees, according to the Actual temp being displayed on the controller.

My question is this: the connectors seem to be the same shape and colors and the G2 controller it is replacing. Is that typical? Is the main difference in controller wiring specific to the RTD connector?

Any insight will be welcomed.

Thanks,
David
 

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You should beable to find a wiring diagram for Pit Boss controllers. That said, that controller does not look like any Pit Boss controller i have, and i have 4 different Pit Boss models.
Looks to me you bought yet another "CHINA" controller that just so happens to "fit" in a Pit Boss.
 
There is nothing quite as frustrating as when a new shiny does not work. And I have been there- more than once.

The item page on Amazon has just enough info to get it all hooked up. And I'd guess in most cases that would be sufficient. Contact the seller for help and/or send it back... there is not much else to do.

Good luck.
 
Hi Nuco,
You said it perfectly… it is going back, and the replacement arrives tomorrow. If that doesn’t work, I may go back to the dreaded G2 controller (a replacement one). My business partner used one from Amazon and has had great results. Maybe mine was faulty? At least I know that it will fit :)

Thanks,
David
 
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