P
PTSidehow
Guest
Since joining the Brethren, and reading some of the threads on construction of the cooking equipment. I have noticed a lot of confusion on cleaning the in and outside of the barrels/drums. One of the most important things, I feel is Safety/Health of you and others in the area.
Since I have found a lot of BS info on the internet about respirators, I have put together a small tutorial on the types and uses of some of the most common ones. Also to clear up some of the smoke and dust that surrounds them.
I spent 34 years as a Stationary Engineer, 13 of them firing, cleaning and operating coal fired boilers, stacks and breeching's. So I known the need for a great respirator.
Any questions please feel free to ask, and I will try to deliver the correct info, or point you in the right direction to find it.
Now the most important thing is to do your home work, on what type you will need. Before you buy any, whether it is for painting,paint removal(fumes/vapors) cleaning,(dust/mold) media blasting (if you are using a silica based product you need one that is "RATED for silica dust to protect you from Silicosis) rust removal with wire wheel, flap wheel, scraper or sanding disks.
If you choose to purchase a respirator that has replaceable cartridges. Make sure that you follow the manufactures instructions on sizing the mask for a perfect fit.
And if you have facial hair, make sure of the type that you buy will work with it or look into a forced air positive flow mask.
The best advice is to read the box or package, or go to the manufactures web site. And READ IT!:thumb: The lungs you save may be your own.
Ok first thing is some general info, as with a lot of things in life and work or trades. The misuse or the wrong use of terms.
The letter designators at the start of the cartridge descriptor:
N =Not to be used with oil.
R =R means "resistant to oils." Can be used for eight hours with chemicals and pesticides that contain oil.
P =P means "oil proof." Can be used with oil and non-oil hazards; may be able to use longer than eight hours.
HE =High Efficiency, the filter used on a PAPR (Can be used with oils.) Check with manufacturer's instructions for time restrictions; or change when you notice a decrease in airflow.
Chemical Cartridge Color Coding
All manufacturers use the same color coding for gas/vapor protection
Color Type
White ******* Acid Gas
Black ********Organic Vapors
Green *******Ammonia Gas
Yellow ******Acid Gas & Organic Vapor
Olive ******* Mulit-gas (protects against numerous gases and vapors)
Magenta *****Particulate Filter Cartridge (HEPA) (Also called P100)
(A HEPA is a particulate filter; all others are used for gases and/or vapors.)
Particulate respirators, filters and pre-filters - trap solid and liquid particles such as dusts, mists and fumes. They can be found in the form of a disposable respirator, or in the form of a "pre-filter", which can be used in conjunction with a chemical cartridge. The filters should be changed according to the manufacturer's instructions or when you experience excessive breathing resistance.
Chemical cartridges - (Gas and/or Vapor-removing Cartridge-type Respirators) are filled with specially treated activated carbon which will adsorb certain gases and/or vapors. You should change the cartridges when you taste or smell a substance, or your eyes, throat or respiratory system become irritated. It's best to schedule a cartridge "change-out" before you notice that you are being exposed to the contaminant.
Not for use in atmospheres, Immediately dangerous to life or health (IDLH is a term that you will see over and over when looking at APR's (Air Purifying Respirators) What most people call masks.
In IDLH atmospheres the concentrations are high enough or the substance is dangerous enough that exposure could kill you. If you must enter, you will need a respirator that supplies breathable air, such as a self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA) unit, which consists of a portable tank of air; or a supplied air system (with an emergency escape bottle), which supplies air via a pump or an air compressor.
Disposable APR's they can be reused for there suggested life span, generally a shift in a workplace.
Then they go from use once and toss, thru the (PAPR) Powered Air Purifying Respirators thru the SCBA, and supplied air/airline
The numbers after the letter designator 95/99/100 are at least 95%/99%/99.97% filter efficient for the particulates
3M N95 Particulate rated for welding fumes
Good For Welding on stainless steel, aluminum, galvanized steel and ozone and nuisance organic vapors may be present.
This is the one that is sold by most LWS or online it is also The one that I use as a hobbyist they last a long time, As it is recommended that after each use you store them in a zip lock plastic bag.
They aren't cheap at the LWS they are about $7.00 each
When you get them on line make sure that they are rated for welding fumes as there are N95 that are only particulate/dust rated. they are cheaper. I use a cheaper one for wire brushing, grinding etc.
Comfort Masks, for dusts and minor irritants
3 versions of dust masks
A dual cartridge respirator, Norton brand now called North
Cartridges/pre-filter caps and inserts
A N95(black) N100(magenta)
Another dual cartridge, SAS brand Survivor air systems now part of Sperian Co
A single cartridge, Glendale brand
cartridge, pre-filter and cover
Just a side note why pre-filters are important, with out them the cartridges plug up quite. Even with them some of the coal dust and soot would get thru.
Finally a fire department SCBA full mask, from an auction of surplus equipment. It is a Survivor air system now Sperian When I get some free time, I am planning on contacting Sperian to find out if the have an adapter rig to fit this mask and low pressure air supply source.
I would say that what systems you need or care to have will depend on the amount of usage and type of work you are using.
You can use a better grade of respirator for dust or other. But never use them for (sand) media blasting, or asbestos
Belt mounted welding half mask respirator Sperian
Hobby air respirator
My standard Disclaimer!
I have no connection to any of the companies I link to, they are only for information and as a time saver. I have posted this on other forums that the members have an interest in the subject matter.
Since I have found a lot of BS info on the internet about respirators, I have put together a small tutorial on the types and uses of some of the most common ones. Also to clear up some of the smoke and dust that surrounds them.
I spent 34 years as a Stationary Engineer, 13 of them firing, cleaning and operating coal fired boilers, stacks and breeching's. So I known the need for a great respirator.
Any questions please feel free to ask, and I will try to deliver the correct info, or point you in the right direction to find it.
Now the most important thing is to do your home work, on what type you will need. Before you buy any, whether it is for painting,paint removal(fumes/vapors) cleaning,(dust/mold) media blasting (if you are using a silica based product you need one that is "RATED for silica dust to protect you from Silicosis) rust removal with wire wheel, flap wheel, scraper or sanding disks.
If you choose to purchase a respirator that has replaceable cartridges. Make sure that you follow the manufactures instructions on sizing the mask for a perfect fit.
And if you have facial hair, make sure of the type that you buy will work with it or look into a forced air positive flow mask.
The best advice is to read the box or package, or go to the manufactures web site. And READ IT!:thumb: The lungs you save may be your own.
Ok first thing is some general info, as with a lot of things in life and work or trades. The misuse or the wrong use of terms.
The letter designators at the start of the cartridge descriptor:
N =Not to be used with oil.
R =R means "resistant to oils." Can be used for eight hours with chemicals and pesticides that contain oil.
P =P means "oil proof." Can be used with oil and non-oil hazards; may be able to use longer than eight hours.
HE =High Efficiency, the filter used on a PAPR (Can be used with oils.) Check with manufacturer's instructions for time restrictions; or change when you notice a decrease in airflow.
Chemical Cartridge Color Coding
All manufacturers use the same color coding for gas/vapor protection
Color Type
White ******* Acid Gas
Black ********Organic Vapors
Green *******Ammonia Gas
Yellow ******Acid Gas & Organic Vapor
Olive ******* Mulit-gas (protects against numerous gases and vapors)
Magenta *****Particulate Filter Cartridge (HEPA) (Also called P100)
(A HEPA is a particulate filter; all others are used for gases and/or vapors.)
Particulate respirators, filters and pre-filters - trap solid and liquid particles such as dusts, mists and fumes. They can be found in the form of a disposable respirator, or in the form of a "pre-filter", which can be used in conjunction with a chemical cartridge. The filters should be changed according to the manufacturer's instructions or when you experience excessive breathing resistance.
Chemical cartridges - (Gas and/or Vapor-removing Cartridge-type Respirators) are filled with specially treated activated carbon which will adsorb certain gases and/or vapors. You should change the cartridges when you taste or smell a substance, or your eyes, throat or respiratory system become irritated. It's best to schedule a cartridge "change-out" before you notice that you are being exposed to the contaminant.
Not for use in atmospheres, Immediately dangerous to life or health (IDLH is a term that you will see over and over when looking at APR's (Air Purifying Respirators) What most people call masks.
In IDLH atmospheres the concentrations are high enough or the substance is dangerous enough that exposure could kill you. If you must enter, you will need a respirator that supplies breathable air, such as a self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA) unit, which consists of a portable tank of air; or a supplied air system (with an emergency escape bottle), which supplies air via a pump or an air compressor.
Disposable APR's they can be reused for there suggested life span, generally a shift in a workplace.
Then they go from use once and toss, thru the (PAPR) Powered Air Purifying Respirators thru the SCBA, and supplied air/airline
The numbers after the letter designator 95/99/100 are at least 95%/99%/99.97% filter efficient for the particulates
3M N95 Particulate rated for welding fumes
Good For Welding on stainless steel, aluminum, galvanized steel and ozone and nuisance organic vapors may be present.
This is the one that is sold by most LWS or online it is also The one that I use as a hobbyist they last a long time, As it is recommended that after each use you store them in a zip lock plastic bag.
They aren't cheap at the LWS they are about $7.00 each
When you get them on line make sure that they are rated for welding fumes as there are N95 that are only particulate/dust rated. they are cheaper. I use a cheaper one for wire brushing, grinding etc.
Comfort Masks, for dusts and minor irritants
3 versions of dust masks
A dual cartridge respirator, Norton brand now called North
Cartridges/pre-filter caps and inserts
A N95(black) N100(magenta)
Another dual cartridge, SAS brand Survivor air systems now part of Sperian Co
A single cartridge, Glendale brand
cartridge, pre-filter and cover
Just a side note why pre-filters are important, with out them the cartridges plug up quite. Even with them some of the coal dust and soot would get thru.
Finally a fire department SCBA full mask, from an auction of surplus equipment. It is a Survivor air system now Sperian When I get some free time, I am planning on contacting Sperian to find out if the have an adapter rig to fit this mask and low pressure air supply source.
I would say that what systems you need or care to have will depend on the amount of usage and type of work you are using.
You can use a better grade of respirator for dust or other. But never use them for (sand) media blasting, or asbestos
Belt mounted welding half mask respirator Sperian
Hobby air respirator
My standard Disclaimer!
I have no connection to any of the companies I link to, they are only for information and as a time saver. I have posted this on other forums that the members have an interest in the subject matter.
