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Patrologia

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2013
Location
Milwaukee, WI
I'd like to get a "likely diagnosis" and advice on how to best proceed.
The other night, after finishing grilling, I turned off the control knobs and took the food in the house. I didn't notice until the next morning that the back burner was, uh, still burning. Extremely low, but still on. I turned it off at the propane tank (yeah, I know, I shoulda done that the night before anyway), and did so without really checking some of the things you're going to ask me, like was is LOCKED in place, but anyway, I did.

This is an early Weber Genesis. The valves are continuous, and it goes OFF>High>Med>Low, so I clearly didn't just turn it down to the lowest setting instead of off.
I used it again last night, and turning off the controls actually turned it off, so it could have been a one time fluke.

Basic question is this: can i tell from this the condition of that valve? Do I need to replace it, or will a lube probably take care of it? (I'd never heard of lubricating the valves until trying to look into this.) On the other hand, is it a fluke and I shouldn't worry at all?

-m
 
Weber valves are high quality tapered seat designs that will last forever if they get cleaned and lubed every few years.

The hardest part is getting the screws to back out of the valve cover if they have been in there for years.

So long as you can get the cover off clean and lube with high temp grease and they should be good to go for you like new at one time you could get the service kit with a new spring and the 2 screws not sure if they still offer those but I'd order them before doing the job.
 
I always shut my genesis off at the tank when done first to let the gas out of the lines. Then shut off all the valves. Good habit to get into.
 
Weber valves are high quality tapered seat designs that will last forever if they get cleaned and lubed every few years.

The hardest part is getting the screws to back out of the valve cover if they have been in there for years.

So long as you can get the cover off clean and lube with high temp grease and they should be good to go for you like new at one time you could get the service kit with a new spring and the 2 screws not sure if they still offer those but I'd order them before doing the job.

Thanks for that info and advice.

I know turning it off at the bottle is a good practice, I was just trying to determine whether the failure to close indicated a problem I should deal with. Sounds like I can do that via maintenance rather than replacement.
 
Is the unit still under Weber warranty? I would call Weber Support and even if it's not, order a replacement valve. I don't want any stray gas coming out of mine as a matter of safety.
 
Is the unit still under Weber warranty? I would call Weber Support and even if it's not, order a replacement valve. I don't want any stray gas coming out of mine as a matter of safety.

That gave me a laugh! Actually, the grill in question is a first gen Genesis; I'm not sure what year exactly but from the 80s. Even so, Weber customer service has been pretty amazing for me. I called in to figure out what igniter I needed, because I can't use the website to choose parts (their flowchart only works as far back as the 1000-5000 series) and they ID'd the grill as a Genesis I, and sent the igniter free of charge.

I might get a new valve, but first I think I'll clean and lube what I've got and see how it goes. I've considered modding them for a few extra BTUs since the 1000-5000 were rated for a little more than the I-V were, so this might be a good time to do that too.
 
That gave me a laugh! Actually, the grill in question is a first gen Genesis; I'm not sure what year exactly but from the 80s. Even so, Weber customer service has been pretty amazing for me. I called in to figure out what igniter I needed, because I can't use the website to choose parts (their flowchart only works as far back as the 1000-5000 series) and they ID'd the grill as a Genesis I, and sent the igniter free of charge.

I might get a new valve, but first I think I'll clean and lube what I've got and see how it goes. I've considered modding them for a few extra BTUs since the 1000-5000 were rated for a little more than the I-V were, so this might be a good time to do that too.


I'm a retired HVAC guy. If by modding I hope you are not talking drilling orifices or changing regulator pressure. Good Luck with your solution.
 
I'm a retired HVAC guy. If by modding I hope you are not talking drilling orifices or changing regulator pressure. Good Luck with your solution.

I was talking about drilling the orifices. When I first got the grill I got some advice here on how much it would be ok to drill it out and still keep it within the range that the 1000 series Genesis would have been. I believe that if I ordered new valves that the ones they’d be sending me are the same as for the 1000, so I figured it was ok. Not touching the regulator, that seems too crazy even for me.
I know I can order a replacement orifice (not the whole valve), and that it is the same for either my 1 or for the 1000. Is there a difference between that orifice and drilling one to the slightly larger diameter?
 
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