Cargo Trailer AC

[midwest_kc]

So we're a tent and camp team, but we have a cargo trailer that is currently bare on the inside. We have been talking about outfitting it with some sort of cabinets, tables, etc. However, before we do that, we want to figure out how to get A/C in it.

What are some experiences you all have had with these setups, and what would you recommend? We've considered putting one in the roof where the vent is, maybe just getting one of those portable units that we can plug in and run, etc.

Any insight would be awesome.

Thanks!

 

[Ribeye Republic]

They can be retro fitted pretty easily. I would leave the vent and cut another whole and brace and wire it for a RV AC unit. It will cost a little but it will be worth it.

 

[Blanton]

Insulate the walls and ceiling

 

[Gowan]

^^ This.

I'm in the process right now of refitting my 6x12 v-nose cargo trailer for use as a cook trailer instead of just an equipment hauler. On completion of putting 3/4 inch foam board insulation in the walls and roof, the temp inside the trailer immediately dropped by 15-20 degrees, with no air conditioning installed.

If nothing else, at least do your roof. Remember that a cargo trailer is basically a closed aluminum box, a.k.a. a solar oven. Any heat you keep outside is heat you don't have to remove with cooling.

If I had to do it again, I would have ordered an insulated unit from the factory. The cost is comparable to doing it yourself and fitting all the panels takes a lot of time as the sizes all vary and there is wiring for running lights, etc. to deal with. Doing the roof is not so bad, but you have to take apart the interior walls to do the sides and then reassemble.

 

[SpratBoy]

^^ This.

I'm in the process right now of refitting my 6x12 v-nose cargo trailer for use as a cook trailer instead of just an equipment hauler. On completion of putting 3/4 inch foam board insulation in the walls and roof, the temp inside the trailer immediately dropped by 15-20 degrees, with no air conditioning installed.

If nothing else, at least do your roof. Remember that a cargo trailer is basically a closed aluminum box, a.k.a. a solar oven. Any heat you keep outside is heat you don't have to remove with cooling.

If I had to do it again, I would have ordered an insulated unit from the factory. The cost is comparable to doing it yourself and fitting all the panels takes a lot of time as the sizes all vary and there is wiring for running lights, etc. to deal with. Doing the roof is not so bad, but you have to take apart the interior walls to do the sides and then reassemble.

Absolutely ditto on Gowen's comments - I took a 6 X 12 V nose cargo trailer, placed shelving in the forward V section, then wired the interior with a few 110v outlets for plug in shop lights and a portable A/C unit - I drilled holes in the very front for the a/c exhaust and condensation output. Next on the list is the insulation - it just does not get cool enough because it truly is an "aluminum solar box"

 

[lavinjj]

We just finished adding A/C to our 14 foot cargo trailer this past weekend. I bough an AT Wood 13,000 A/C and installed it after insulating the walls and ceiling with 3/4 inch foam insulation. The trailer I have had two ceiling ribs that were 14 inches apart that made for a perfect place to mount the A/C unit. We just welded some 1 inch square between the ribs to complete out the brace for the unit and then bolted it in place. Since we had already ran electrical in the entire trailer we already had a 120 V line for the unit. I think it took us about 6 hours to insulate the ceiling, cut the hole, mount the unit and wire it up.

 

[BMerrill]

Dometic has been having issues with their Brisk Air units. Go with a Coleman.

 

[J&B'sBBQ]

Like the others have said, insulate first, but we have a 6x12 that we installed a portable AC unit in. We cut a hole in the side and installed a 6" dryer vent. We then hooked the exhaust from the AC to the dryer vent and she works perfectly!