BigTerp's UDS Build

BigTerp

Knows what a fatty is.
Joined
Apr 20, 2015
Location
Falling...
All of the UDS builds on here were SO helpful while planning mine, I figured I should at least try to document my build to hopefully help others.

Been using a Smoke Hollow offset for the last 2 years. It does OK after I stove roped the crap out of the fire box and grill lid. But I still had to babysit it while smoking and there is barely enough room for 2 splatchcocked chickens. It also heats pretty unevenly, which was really annoying. Have wanted a better smoker pretty much since I first started using my offset, but didn't want the price tag. So I just stuck with my frustrating offset and definitely don't use it as much as I would a better smoker.

Don't remember how, but I stumbled upon UDS builds and was very intrigued. After doing some research and talking to my buddy to see if he'd be willing to help me with the welding, he wanted one as well. So it looks like we'll be doing 2 UDS's.

Plans are for 3 3/4" nipples, 2 with caps and one with a ball valve for intake. We are using the flat lid as is. Our barrels have the 2" and 1" or so smaller bungs on the lid. Going to use a 2" x 6" nipple with 90 degree threaded pipe elbow for the exhaust. Will plug the smaller bung with a threaded pipe plug. Will also use a threaded pipe plug to plug the exhaust after a cook to choke out the fire. We will have 2 grates. One at 6" below the lid and the second at 12". We are using #9, 3/4" expanded metal with a ring of 1/8" steel rod for reinforcement as our grill grates. Our fire box will be made with the same expanded metal and be 15" in diameter by 10" high. Will be using 5/16" steel rod for the fire box legs. I'm planning on 2 casters and a piece of steel rod as a center leg for the bottom of mine. It will get moved around a decent amount and having only 2 casters with a centered leg will keep it stable while cooking. Going to use the electrical water tight conduit connectors that others have used on here for our thermo probe inserts. Only other mods are a lid handle and a handle on the back for rolling the UDS around. I'm knocking around the idea of a side table made of steel angle and expanded metal. Not sure on that yet though.

This will be an all weld build except for the grate supports. I'm sure it really doesn't make a difference, but my buddy likes to use his welder so I figured why not.

After a lot of searching and frustration trying to find an unlined barrel, I ended up getting a pair of food grade drums earlier this week. They were used to store honey and have the tan liner. Wanted to get these smokers built, so I'll deal with getting the liner out.
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Got my holes drilled for the intakes and grate supports the next day. Drilled my intake holes 1-1/2" up from the bottom. How tall should the legs on my fire box be?
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Also got the top portion of our fire baskets cut. We are using expanded metal for the bottoms as well.
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This will take a 2" threaded nipple, right?
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What size threaded pipe plug will this smaller bung take? I don't think it's quite 1"?
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That's it for now. Going to burn both barrels this evening. Have a bunch of well seasoned fire wood left over from camping and a pallet. Also borrowed my buddies weed burner for extra measure. Hoping at least most of the liner comes out with the first burn. I'll find out soon enough.
 
You guys will love the UDSs! If I build another I'm going with a single extra large slide vent like on a Kamado or 2 med/L like the Big Poppa Kits. Forget the lil bung - put plug in it. Id put 2.5-3" legs on basket. If your intakes are not higher than ash level - ash will get pulled up onto food and out the exhaust. Next one I do the bottom of slide vent will be 2-2.5 inches off bottom.
 
Thanks man!!

So I want my fire box above the intakes, but ash pan below, right? Just wasn't sure how high above the intake my box should be. Might not even do an ash pan, not really sure though.

I plan to plug the little bung with a threaded pipe plug. Just not quite sure what size I need.
 
Bungs are 1" npt and 2" npt I would not go with an elbow on the exhaust it will restrict it hindering your temps. you actually don't need a stack at all I don't run one on mine. If you must a 45 wound provide a smother flow. Those Tan Liners are a MoFO to remove
 
Bungs are 1" npt and 2" npt I would not go with an elbow on the exhaust it will restrict it hindering your temps. you actually don't need a stack at all I don't run one on mine. If you must a 45 wound provide a smother flow. Those Tan Liners are a MoFO to remove

Thanks!!

The reason for the elbow is to keep rain out while cooking. I don't have a carport or anything to keep my smoker covered if it rains while cooking. How much of an issue will the 90 degree elbow cause me? If it's a nice day I can always unthread the elbow and have just a straight vertical stack.
 
Got a few things accomplished last night. Got both barrels burned hot for a solid 3 hours. They were cherry red and all the paint on the outside is gone. To my surprise a lot of the liner also burned off. I'll work on the rest with a wire wheel, angle grinder, sander, etc.

Start of the burn.
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Making progress.
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Paint pretty much gone.
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This morning. Paint all burned off the outside. Still a lot of hot coals inside. Will work on cleaning barrels up this evening.
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My buddy got a few things done last night as well.

Fire baskets welded. I'm going to cut out the bottoms this evening and get them welded on.
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Handles made of 1/2" electrical conduit.
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Lid hooks.
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Going to pick up my nipples and other hardware today. Planning to get the nipples welded on this evening and prepping the barrels for primer/paint.
 
I don't see it's necessary to get every bit of liner out - a Hot Burnout and a Good Power Wash is good enough for me - Season over what's left.
 
Since your buddy can weld why not weld on rain caps onto exhaust stack instead of bends?




You could get Fancy and make removable rain caps so you can pop it off to cap exhaust to snuff fire at end of cook.
 
If you cut the bottom for your basket square weld on the round side then just bend the corners down you now have your feet for the basket (steel you would have just wasted when cutting a round bottom).If you think you put your inlets too low (ash problem) put a forth one in higher and use it for the one with the valve on it for will use other 3 just to get up to temp. then capped.
 
I don't see it's necessary to get every bit of liner out - a Hot Burnout and a Good Power Wash is good enough for me - Season over what's left.

I agree. Seeing how hot that fire was last night anything that doesn't come out with minimal effort is probably going to stay.
 
If you cut the bottom for your basket square weld on the round side then just bend the corners down you now have your feet for the basket (steel you would have just wasted when cutting a round bottom).If you think you put your inlets too low (ash problem) put a forth one in higher and use it for the one with the valve on it for will use other 3 just to get up to temp. then capped.

We have plenty of expanded metal. Planning on welding steel rods to the bottom of our baskets for feet. It will waste a little expanded metal though.

Not sure if my intakes are high enough or not. What do most guys do? I went 1-1/2" up from the bottom.
 
Yes that cap should work but how would you close off exaust when done cooking with this cap welded on ?

That's my concern with something like that as well. A threaded pipe plug will be perfect for how I'm currently planning things.
 
Now you all got me concerned my intakes are too low. Seems most do 2". For some reason I had 1" in my head when I drilled my holes, but that seemed awful low. So I went 1-1/2". Is that going to cause ash to be flying around my drum?
 
Not sure if my intakes are high enough or not. What do most guys do? I went 1-1/2" up from the bottom.

You'll be fine. Only issue you will have is ash clogging the holes if you don't keep it clean, as your holes are so near the bottom, so.... Keep it clean! Looks like a good start!
 
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