Stumps Clone build

[seattlepitboss]

Hey, Kris, can you post or email me full-size drawings? My email addy is gwe AT tinyisland DOT com, thanks!

seattlepitboss

 

[suprfast]

Hey, Kris, can you post or email me full-size drawings? My email addy is gwe AT tinyisland DOT com, thanks!

seattlepitboss

I sent pdf files instead. A lot larger, clearer and you can zoom in etc... If you have CAD ill be more than happy to send the dwg. Again im not a CAD person, but im learning.

JD
Hijack away. My thread is everyone's thread. No limits.
kris

 

[crd26a]

I have to wonder how fast Jeff is moving and turning the smoker to transfer that much weight to one wheel. I replaced my stock wheels with no-flat 500# capacity, and it seems just fine. Not doubting that it can happen, just haven't had problems myself.

Unsure. It could just be the quality of the wheel or getting it on unlevel ground, putting more weight, then squish.

 

[JD McGee]

Hotel pans (full size) come in 2", 3", 4" and 6" heights. I use 4" deep pans when I make my peach cobbler to prevent it bubbling over the side - it's easier than using cookie sheets to catch the drips, much less messy too. If I built a clone it would hold hotel pans with room around all edges for air to circulate, probably 2" each side, thus 17x25 depth/width, probably six or eight cooking racks tall, with 6" vertical rack pitch.

Besides being able to hold hotel pans for warming or cooking in, my other size spec is the ability to efficiently hold racks of ribs. Most racks of pork ribs are about 21-22" long. I
don't see any reason to use racks wider than that unless you are building a huge commercial smoker.

seattlepitboss

This was the large Costco aluminum size that he was looking for... Huge commercial is where I'm headed...

Thanks guys. Im looking into all recommendations. what are the size of aluminum pans? I know costco carries two sizes and i plan to incorporate a drip tray holder that will hold these pans too.
kris

 

[Bogus Chezz Hawg]

Wow! Good luck with your build! I can't wait to see your updates throughout the process.

 

[suprfast]

Sorry its been some time since i updated. Was working non stop on autocad, and im only on week three using it. I can add delete panels as i choose now

If there is a mod that is kind enough to move this picture to my first post that would be awesome.
kris

 

[NorthwestBBQ]

Looks good, Kris.

 

[pile-0-bones]

That looks real familiar.

 

[bocephus]

do you have a heat sheild? 2 peice to prevent burning drippings on contact is good, Im not sure if you wanted to add that in your picutre there

 

[suprfast]

That looks real familiar.

Yes sir, i think i mentioned it was mimicking your build. A lot of pieces are missing to just make this view easier on the eyes. Ill add more views shortly.

 

[Kermits Revenge]

Sweet looking plans. I would be interested in the cad drawings as I am in the design stages of my second cooker. You can email me @ thebyrums@comcast.net
Thanks,
Randy

 

[dodgeramsst2003]

I'm impressed by the plans, can't wait to see the actual smoker! Keep us posted please.

 

[suprfast]

Thanks everyone. This will be a very long project so ill bump this thread from time to time.
kris

 

[Coz]

Looks good.I think as some one who has built a couple clones with a couple more in the works you really should take the time and spend the effort to do the tapered chute.

 

[suprfast]

care to elaborate as to why. I can modify any of plans, so let me know what is best.
kris

 

[Coz]

After I had built my first clone I was talking with a competitor from another area who had a straight chute .One of Stumps before the redo.He asked if I had a tapred chute and I said no why?He showed me the lower parts of his legs where he had been seriously burned from when he had a bridge in his chute and had to pound it loose with a long bar.When it broke loose he had the ash box door open and all of the hot ash and small bits of charcoal blew out and all over the lower parts of his legs.VERY serious burns.I had some bridges with my first clone and always kept this in mind .when it jammed up I would close the door and the valve before trying to break it loose.For the amount of effort you take to build one of these cookers it really isnt that much more work to do to taper the chute.To make the build easier I have been making the wall of the chute that is facing the cook chamber staight up and down so that its easier to mount and square in the cooker frame.If you look at the link in an earlier post that goes back to the plat 5 clone on Prairie BBQ you can see that we really taperd the chute on that one.I think you can get by with way less.That being said there are a lot of great GF cookers out there be it Stumps origianls or clones with the straight chutes that function very well.I just think its a little extra work for a saftey payoff and a lot of piece of mind at nap time.

 

[Coz]

Here is a pic of one of the next units that I am collecting parts for.7" on top and 10" on the bottom.

 

[suprfast]

Good thing i layered the drawing so modifying this is easy. Ill take a look at it. I thought i was going to have a large enough chute so the taper wouldnt be necessary. Is that not the case, can bridging happen with an 8" x8" chute(7"x7" ID)
kris

 

[Coz]

My feeling is that bridging can happen no matter what size the chute.I think as the fuel is working its way down the chute as its burning it is settling and packing and wedging itself in tighter as it settles.With the tapered chute that cant happen.Now Jim that runs Prairie BBQ has a method that works for him where he breaks the larger pieces of lump up as he is loading the chute and he doesnt have issues with bridgwes.I think it may have been discussed on the thread that was liked earlier in this thread to the plat 5 clone.I usually have enuff going at comps that I just want to dump the lump in and let her burn.

 

[Nickos]

would bridging be less of a problem it charcoal briquettes were used?

I too am in the drawing stages of a stumps clone. a lot of my build is coming from darrelb's clone on Prairie