UDS R2-BQ Build

B

BigKev

Guest
Process of building my version of a R2-D2 themed USD (aka a R2-BQ).

The process started with getting a clean bare drum from a recycler near Los Angeles. These is "almost" a straight sided drum and was ran through a blast furnace and media blasted. I drilled the marked the location of the air intake holes in the bottom and then drilled them out to 1".

Then I reburned the drum to remove the rust inhibitor that the recycler sprays their drums with. I set the drum on top of my fire pit so I would not kill the grass in the yard, and then put the screen from the fire pit on top to catch and flying embers.

I picked up a used 22.5" OTS from CL to use as parts for the project. I plan on using the bottom of the OTS for the "head" of R2. It is larger and has the correct dome shape. But this required me to cut he leg holders off the bottom of the kettle with a cut off wheel, and then grind down the spot welds with a grinder.

With the "head" prepped, I need to create a "docking ring" with the drum as the head was the exact same width as the drum lip. So it would not sit over the lip, or snap over the outside or inside of the drum lip. So I cut the flange off of the OTS lid, and then inverted that and welded it to the top of the drum. I made sure to remove the porcelain from the flange and also grind down the top of the drum to insure a good welding are. I then tack welded the flange in place. I like later seal the seam completely with some Silicon RTV.

I am leaving the One Touch controls in the kettle to give me an exhaust dampener for the UDS when done. Pictures below follow more to come as I get further into the project.

Drum-1.jpg


Drum-2.jpg


Drum-3.jpg


R2BQ-1.jpg


R2BQ-2.jpg


R2BQ-3.jpg


R2BQ-4.jpg


R2BQ-5.jpg


R2BQ-6.jpg


R2BQ-7.jpg


R2BQ-8.jpg


R2BQ-9.jpg


R2BQ-10.jpg


R2BQ-11.jpg


R2BQ-12.jpg


R2BQ-13.jpg


R2BQ-14.jpg


R2BQ-15.jpg


R2BQ-16.jpg


R2BQ-17.jpg
 
Really cool build brotha, I have never seen anyone use the grill base as a lid I like it! Good craftsmanship so far cant wait to see what else you slap on R2-BQ:thumb::thumb::thumb:
 
looks like this is going to be an interesting build, can't wait too see the final results.
 
Looking good. Lot of work done already. How do you plan on painting it up?
 
After I get all the fabrication work done, I am going to give the outside a sand down, and also sand the "head" to etch it a little bit. Then the entire unit will get a coat of high temp silver. Then I will mask off the head for the metallic blue panels. The body with get masked with some fine line tape to create the panel borders, and then sprayed white. Then the fine line tape is removed. Finally just need to mask and tape off the areas of metallic blue and black on the body.

So trying to duplicate as much of the original R2D2 look in feel in paint. So the "legs" will just be painted on, no extra fabricated bits. After all, when all is said in done it is still a smoker first, just themed.

Thanks for all the kind words so far. It is appreciated.
 
More progress today....

Originally I was going to just tack weld the "docking ring" to the drum and then seal it with RTV silicone. But I wasn't happy with how thin the ring was and it bent a way to easily from the heavier kettle (head). So I just decided to fully weld it in, and did multiple passes to build up the thickness of the lip, and then ground it to shape. This is probably the thickest part of the drum now, and no RTV required.

I also used a bullseye pic to remove as much of dents in the kettle from where the leg holders were welded.

Next I moved unto sanding down the "head" and the drum to ready it for paint. I first removed the One-Touch controls, and then I used a stripping wheel on a grinder to remove the shiny later on the kettle (aka head), and went over the entire outside of the drum to clean it.

Then I drilled the holes for the rack bolts. Installed the bolts, and also installed the pipe nipples on the bottom.

With everything installed, then I wiped down the drum and head with thinner to remove any dirt and grease. Masked off the nipple threads, and tapped over holes in the head. They I applied three coats of High-Heat Aluminum color paint. This will be the base color for both parts and also the main color for the head. The paint recommends that it cure for 7 days before another coat of paint being applied over it to prevent lifting. So in a holding pattern until then.

R2BQ-18.jpg


R2BQ-19.jpg


R2BQ-20.jpg


R2BQ-21.jpg


R2BQ-22.jpg


R2BQ-23.jpg


R2BQ-24.jpg


R2BQ-25.jpg


R2BQ-26.jpg


R2BQ-27.jpg
 
Can you post or PM me where you got the drum. I am just a little south of you, but would love to find a couple smooth drums like that.

TIA

Pete
 
great build thus far. what kind of welder do you have to do those tack welds? i am looking to get something for small welds like that
 
I am using an Eastwood MIG-135 welder. Sold by Eastwood, but it is nothing more than a rebadged Lincoln SP-135 welder, but with infinite adjustment.

I bought that welder to do all the body panel replacement on the '54 Packard I am restoring.
 
Was traveling the last 7 days for business so have been out of pocket.But finally back home and able to get back to work on my UDS build. So I decided to mask off the lid (head) and paint the blue color. Finally starting to look like R2. Need to get to work on the body. Just having problems trying to find 1/4" masking tape.

R2BQ-28.jpg


R2BQ-29.jpg


R2BQ-30.jpg
 
Back
Top