Another question about using wood

My own opinion, if you cut those 8" down, 2x2 to 2x4, you will have some awesome size chunks and slats.

You should get great smoke, once dried, since there is no bark.

I would be on the lookout for any oils that could have been introduced in the milling process.

I don't know that there is oil in the mills, but I would just have that on my mind

Great find RR!

Oh, forgot the reason I said to break it down. I have a Bandera, which is not that big a firebox (after cooking on a Backyard chef)

In a BYC, I wouldn't bother breaking down the bigger stuff

But when I put big cherry wheels in the Dera, takes it a while for it to fully ignite. So it
smolders for a little while, RE: Bad Smoke.

Smaller slats, instant ignition

good luck

I ended up with some cutoffs from a cabinet company. Hickory and oak.They are completely cured and have no finish or anything on them. We threw a few in and got some nasty stinky black smoke from them. I have no idea what is up with that. Now we just throw a few of them on when firing up the pit to help get temps up and then switch back to my real wood.

Randy - as long as you know what kind of wood you're getting, it's history (re: Greg's stinky black smoke), and you cut it to fit the firebox, I think you have a great plan.

Wait for KCQuer to chime in.

He is in the wood working trade, and can add his .02 on whether the milled lumber is a problem.

Lumber is kiln dried, very very dry. As cut wood gets too seasoned to be effective for seasoning, lumber starts that way. Gregs nasty black smoke was probably from sealing wax (stuff painted on the ends of the saw logs to prevent cracks from starting at the ends of the logs because they dry faster. Wax can be red, yellow, green, black (in the top photo above its black). Kiln dried wood lights beautifully, especially if preheated, and provides excellent heat. Some can provide some flavor.

The saw mill wood you've found hasn't been kiln dried so will still make good smoking wood. I personally would cook with a treated 2x4 before I cook with oak but that's just me, lots of folks like oak and swear by it, so you'll have to try some and see how you like it. If you have a miter saw just trim the painted(waxed) ends off, split or saw narrower and use just like cord wood.

Let us know how it works out.

I would be on the lookout for any oils that could have been introduced in the milling process.

Click to expand...

You're not likely to find petroleum or silicone based anything around wood working machines. Greases and oils are used very sparingly on machines because they attract and retain dust that becomes abrasive in gears. Silicone based lubes (WD-40 and similar) aren't as bad as petro based lubes but are very hard to get off the wood. If even a trace amount remains on the wood, stains, sealers and finishes won't stick to the product.
What you will find is some wax, parrifin or Johnson (paste wax for floors) are both very common. You might find a bit on the odd board or two that are run through a machine just after the cast iron table is lubed. Shouldn't be much of a problem and if you preheat the wood you'll smell it long before you get it in the firebox.

i think its a horrible idea using that oak.

And just to help a brother out, I would be willing to take it all off your hands. PM me for shipping instructions.


I love using oak... its my primary cooking mixed along with cherry. looks like u hit the jackpot.. just test it out first.

I may be paranoid here, but i wouldnt test it in my pit. I would burn some in a large ceramic flower pot or something along the lines of a firebox so you can control the combustion to give you a slow burn.. Just bruning it in an open pit or fireplace wont emeulate the way it burnws when cooking. You need a slow controlled burn to see how it smokes the way we use it. If for some reason it does release a nasty resin or something(like pine and cedar does) it can ruin your pit to the point where the only cure is sand blasting.

kcquer said:

I would be on the lookout for any oils that could have been introduced in the milling process.

Click to expand...

You're not likely to find petroleum or silicone based anything around wood working machines. Greases and oils are used very sparingly on machines because they attract and retain dust that becomes abrasive in gears. Silicone based lubes (WD-40 and similar) aren't as bad as petro based lubes but are very hard to get off the wood. If even a trace amount remains on the wood, stains, sealers and finishes won't stick to the product.
What you will find is some wax, parrifin or Johnson (paste wax for floors) are both very common. You might find a bit on the odd board or two that are run through a machine just after the cast iron table is lubed. Shouldn't be much of a problem and if you preheat the wood you'll smell it long before you get it in the firebox.

Click to expand...

See, told you E would know.

Great thread.

cherry, all fowl is great for cherry.

Can I be your new best friend? Great find and enjoy the cooking!