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BruceKWHP

Full Fledged Farker
Joined
Jan 15, 2010
Location
Oak Park, CA. Ventura County 91377
Name or Nickame
Bruce
Does driving 100 miles in an SUV still make it a "free" drum? I hosed it out, started a small brush fire in it (which removed lots of the exterior paint) then took my 90 degree air die grinder with a 3" brown ScotchBrite wheel to the outside to remove the remaining paint.

Then I drilled a 3/4" hole with a Unibit for the ball valve (I will be going up to a 1" hole for the 3/4" nipples, 2 for caps one for ball valve)

Now I need more parts! Handles, grate(s), water pan? wheels?

What are best dimensions for charcoal bin, I need to get some expanded steel to weld one up! Fabrication and BBQ, what a combo!

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Thanks to Mike on Craigslist: my "free" drum, it had a very thin amber color plastic like thin film lining that burned out easily... the bottom 1/4 had peeled from the shampoo that had been in the drum, strong shampoo or thin liner??

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Paint removed and ready for 3/4" nipple installations, temp guage and 3 grille mounting bolts
 
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I didn't take mine down to bare metal last time, maybe that's why the paint didn't last too long. I just paint over the old rust lol
 
My basket is 18" around x 8" on 3" stilts. One day I'll attach a shallow pan under the stilts to aid in ash removal.
You're doing a fine job so far. Looks real good!
By the way you'll need 1" holes for 3/4" pipe nipple.
 
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A 16" Weber bottom grate (Lowe's or HD) makes a good base for one. The pan is a $3 Wally World pizza pan, excellent for catching ashes. Spot welded it to the bolts.

You can get expanded steel at Lowe's, etc., but I got mine from a welding shop. He ran it through the roller. Made things easier. Baskets are 16" deep. I can fill them all the way up and smoke for 4 days! Half-fill is good for two 6 to 8-hour smokes or one longer one.

The bale from a 5-gallon bucket is the cats ass for a handle. Bend a small notch in the middle of it, and use a cheap fireplace poker hook (mine was $4) in the notch to to lift and lower the basket. Excellent control.

Happy building!
 
hole sizes

I read the Norco post after I posted the pics, I will be using the three bolt method for grill mounting, and drilling the ball valve hole to one inch for a nipple.... With the flat drum lid, how many racks at what height from the top? I was thinking one rack to start about 8" down from top edge, with a thermometer mounted 1" below it.


If you don't have time to go through the UDS thread itself, it is well worth the time to look and learn from Norco's great post on a tried and true UDS design.


http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showpost.php?p=662611&postcount=86
 
I read the Norco post after I posted the pics, I will be using the three bolt method for grill mounting, and drilling the ball valve hole to one inch for a nipple.... With the flat drum lid, how many racks at what height from the top? I was thinking one rack to start about 8" down from top edge, with a thermometer mounted 1" below it.

That sounds about right. The key thing to aim for is to have the bottom rack about 24" above the bottom of your fire basket (what the coals rest on, not the bottom of the drum). Any closer and you risk temps that are too high. I personally used the 4 bolt rack mount, for no reason other than I have the hardware to do so, and the chance of the rack ever tipping from lopsided meat placement is practically zero.
 
today I drilled out the 3/4" hole to 1 1/4" with a Unibit to take a 1" nipple, then screwed on a 1" Harbor Freight ball valve (free because they were not supposed to be on the shelf, but returned to the main warehouse, he did not want to "sell" it to me... so he just said "it's yours") I welded it up with the wire feed... not too bad a weld considering how rusty I am.

Do I put another 1" pipe on the opposite side and cap it for additional airflow on start up? I was going to cap two 3/4 nipples and use a 3/4 ball valve untill I spotted the 1" valve at Harbor Freight today. Two 1" pipes should more than equal three 3/4, no?

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Yes sir, 2-1" = 1.57 sq. in. vs. 3- 3/4" = 1.32 sq. in. Not accounting for wall thickness. Hmmm curious to see what others thoughts will be on the two holes, I like it myself.
 
More progress! I welded in the 2nd 1" nipple for the cap side. I added the temp guage by using my #3 Unibit drilling a 3/4" hole 9" below the lip.... It took a little filing with a round file to open the hole a tad more so the guage would thread into the hole. Then I put 3 carriage bolts in to hold the grill at 8.25" below the lip. I used 2"X1/4" carriage bolts.... 1 1/2" are plenty long to hold the grille.

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View showing temp guage with retaining nut, and 1/4" carriage bolts holding grill in place.

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As they used to say on American Choppers... almost ready to tear down for paint!

I have to work on the lid. Next is the exhaust pipe, I am thinking of using 2" conduit with a valve plate like my char griller has.
 
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Why does getting some "free steel" add so much time to the build... I am making some caster mounts for the "alley find" casters I picked up... cutting and welding in my spare time now... can you say heavy duty?
 
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