SF Fire Box Air Tightness

[GroundChunk]

Hi everyone,

This question is for folks familiar with SF smokers. I'm interested in an SF with a warmer box over the FB, and I'm thinking of adding a two inch ball valve to the main FB to do charcoal cooks in the warmer box with a BBQ guru when I don't feel like wood burning. My question is about the intake dampers and the seals of all applicable parts in the fire box and warmer box. Is there going to be too much air in there already to try to regulate it with a Guru?

Thank you for any input.

 

[BBQ Freak]

I was going to do the same thing but came to the conclusion too much air and would not work the way the cooker was designed for .

 

[pjtexas1]

my best guess is that you would need to leave the intake off the warmer door to do what you are wanting. might also want to have them put some gaskets on the warmer door too. then you still have the damper from the cc to the warmer that might let air in and the damper from the fb to the warmer.

 

[TuscaloosaQ]

You can also remove the washer behind the firebox intake.. It is a 1/8 thick washer.. This is to allow space when the damper is opened or closed to keep from being metal on metal and rubbing the paint off.... Get Tyler to fab you an extra damper with a correct size nipple for the guru... Whatever that is... When going the mode you want to.... Take the orginial damper off... Instal the one with the nipple without the shim.....

 

[pjtexas1]

^^^and that is why he is the fabricator and we are not.:thumb:

 

[speed2486]

^^^^ Amen!

 

[cats49er]

And now you know.

 

[Ayvatr]

^^^and that is why he is the fabricator and we are not.:thumb:

What he said......

 

[GroundChunk]

I think I'm star struck. Thank you, sir.

 

[ChrisH]

Paul.... I'm going to be calling you about this option!

I LOVE my Shirley.

 

[Adubree86]

You can also remove the washer behind the firebox intake.. It is a 1/8 thick washer.. This is to allow space when the damper is opened or closed to keep from being metal on metal and rubbing the paint off.... Get Tyler to fab you an extra damper with a correct size nipple for the guru... Whatever that is... When going the mode you want to.... Take the orginial damper off... Instal the one with the nipple without the shim.....

Paul beat me to it. I'll have the first Shirley with a ball valve in the firebox. I asked him about this option weeks ago and we have been talking about it. It was this past week I asked him about the warmer box damper and its assembly. We agreed the easiest method to seal everything up was to remove the nut and bolt for the warmer damper and replace the standard nut with a wing nut, remove the washer when you want to use the guru and add it back in when you aren't. I'm pumped to be the guinne pig for this mod. Make sure you also get the baffle blocker for the main chamber.

 

[GroundChunk]

Paul beat me to it. I'll have the first Shirley with a ball valve in the firebox. I asked him about this option weeks ago and we have been talking about it. It was this past week I asked him about the warmer box damper and its assembly. We agreed the easiest method to seal everything up was to remove the nut and bolt for the warmer damper and replace the standard nut with a wing nut, remove the washer when you want to use the guru and add it back in when you aren't. I'm pumped to be the guinne pig for this mod. Make sure you also get the baffle blocker for the main chamber.

He seemed to be suggesting that I should just order a baffle plate with the temp controller fan adapter permanently attached to it instead of the ball valve as an intake. I'm pretty sure that I'll forego the intake in the warmer door. I can't see me using charcoal in the warmer box, but I can see using the coal tray as a deflector, and if I can get them to seal weld it, a water pan if I'm feeling frisky.

Did you get the impression from him that the ball valve intake in the firebox had a legitimate chance at doing what you're hoping it will do?

 

[Adubree86]

He seemed to be suggesting that I should just order a baffle plate with the temp controller fan adapter permanently attached to it instead of the ball valve as an intake. I'm pretty sure that I'll forego the intake in the warmer door. I can't see me using charcoal in the warmer box, but I can see using the coal tray as a deflector, and if I can get them to seal weld it, a water pan if I'm feeling frisky.

Did you get the impression from him that the ball valve intake in the firebox had a legitimate chance at doing what you're hoping it will do?

I had made the suggestion and we both just kind of agreed to see how it works. To me it's really no different than all the vertical insulated cookers out there except the warmer cabinet isn't insulated. Worst case it doesn't work and I remove the ball valve and cap it.