Reverse flow mod...

[itschris]

It seems the more I read and learn, the one major drawback of the horizontal barrel smoker with offset fire box (like the Horizon Classic or Brinkmann Stillwater) is the uneven temps at the union.

Is it silly to consider a reverse flow mod to these type of smokers? Welding a floor under the grate and moving the stack to the other other side? I attached a somewhat crude drawing but it get the point across I think.

Also, what about a small fan? Isn't that the magic behind a convection oven? Would that drastically effect temps or could it be small enought just to circulate the air without distrubing the flow?

 

[itschris]

BTW - if these are the musings of an ignorant retard... feel free to humiliate my thought process. I can take it.

 

[AlabamaGrillBillies]

Just my oppinon, but anything you try and do to improve the cooking characteristics of your smoker is a worthwile endevor. I've seen others do it before, but don't have the link. They were happy with their results and thats all that mattered. Good luck and let us know how it comes out.

 

[Grillman40]

IMO I think its a great idea. Basically, its the same method as in my Lang but I'm not sure you would have to run the stack all the way down. Probably would be better just extend it a bit from the top and thats it. Plus that will save you some space and it should pull the smoke across just fine. Just my opinion....good luck with it.

 

[butts a fire]

I think you are on the right path with the reverse flow. Also the fan would definitely spped up the cooking process and provide even cooking temps depending on the fan size and location. I have seen many a smoker with fans built into them. Good luck with the mods and let us know how the turn out.

 

[Markbb]

reverse flow

I took my smoker and made it into a reverse flow but it's using natural convection....the fan idea is good worried about the heat. Are we pushing or pulling?? and will this effect the fire due to increase in airflow thru the smoker!!

 

[Harbormaster]

Chris, that is exactly what I'm going to do with my Cimarron. The only place to move the chimney to would be the back left of the unit. I plan to extend the chimney into the unit between the cook grates and the "baffle" to make sure the heat and smoke get pulled down over the meat.
I see nothing wrong with your thought process (except I would not weld the false floor in, just use 2 to 3 pieces of steel that you can take in and out for cleaning purposes.)
So I will not call you a retard.

 

[itschris]

Holy crap! I think all this stuff may actually be sinking in! When putting inthe floor, I'm assuming it needs to fit snuggly across the entire bottom of the unit (except on the far side where the heat comes up into the cooking chamber. Now here's where the questions start:

Should the gap (from the new floor pan to the far edge) run the depth of the smoker, or should it go all the way to the edge, with just some diameter sized hole to let the heat and smoke into the upper chamber?

 

[Harbormaster]

Holy crap! I think all this stuff may actually be sinking in! When putting inthe floor, I'm assuming it needs to fit snuggly across the entire bottom of the unit (except on the far side where the heat comes up into the cooking chamber.

I am having 3 pieces of steel cut that are about 14"x9". That will make up the baffle/floor/tuning plate. I am going to try to make this work without moving the chimney if I don't have to.

Should the gap (from the new floor pan to the far edge) run the depth of the smoker, or should it go all the way to the edge, with just some diameter sized hole to let the heat and smoke into the upper chamber?

If I have to convert to reverse flow, I will leave a full gap for the depth of the smoker. If you try to fit stuff in tight with holes, you'll struggle getting pieces in and out.
Does that help?

 

[itschris]

It does, about how much of a gap do should you leave? Also, how much room does there need to be between the cooking grate and the new floor?

 

[Harbormaster]

Here's a quicky I did on Excel.
No dimensions, 'cuz I don't have a smoker here to measure, but you'll get the idea and when you get a pit you'll be able to make your own measurements.

 

[itschris]

That's pretty much right in line with my original thoughts. So you think a gap of about 6 inches would be enough? I'm wondering why this setup, the reverse flow, just doesn't cause the same problem just on the other side of the smoker? You'd think that the area just above the new gap would be considerably hotter just like the section at the original union in the standard setup.

 

[Harbormaster]

I'm wondering why this setup, the reverse flow, just doesn't cause the same problem just on the other side of the smoker? You'd think that the area just above the new gap would be considerably hotter just like the section at the original union in the standard setup.

Because all of the hot gasses have to pass under the steel of the baffle/tuning plate, it is going to heat that steel up as it goes by.
Trust me, I saw a much larger version of this at a comp (thanks Ron L and Parrothead) and the temps are almost exact from one side to the other.

 

[Full Throttle Q]

I wonder if I could make an piece for my chargriller that would clamp on to the coal basket that would seal off to the side the firebox is on?

Mike

 

[alemaster]

http://www.thesmokering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5172 Take a look at this ! Alemaster

 

[QansasjayhawQ]

I use aluminum foil-wrapped grates as deflectors in my Brinkmann SmokeN Pit. I have extended the chimney from its original position down below the level of the cooking grates. I think that these two modifications have completely transformed this smoker into a useful tool.

(And some day when I grow up, I'll figure out why my scanner won't work and provide some pictures of this.)