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PTSidehow

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Kept forgetting to take the camera out when I would be throwing a batch of galvanized hardware, pipe ends or fitting in to remove the plating before welding etc. with no worries of everything with in fuming distance, Starting to rust and no disposal problems. When using Muratic acid it will rust any ferrous material,the fumes come in contact with. Can really cause havoc in the shop if you don't tighten the cap and store it outside in a plastic bucket with cover.

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I had bought two of these 1 1/2 gallon bottles over a year ago just cracked the last one for this job.
Along with the washers and nuts bulk hardware @Tractors supply $1.99/pound. Eye Bolts are Stanley brand.

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Placed them in a plastic coffee can with lid @ 11:30am shook it a couple times when walking by and around 3:30pm they were down. 4hours and done rinse and then dry off and you are ready to go.

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You can see were the vinegar didn't get to there are couple of plated patches but they won't cause a problem, same as the shiny on the threads were the nuts were.

Now it does take longer, and depending on the quality of the and the type of the plating. Cold galvanizing, Hot dipped or one of the assorted combination processes. Will all effect the length of time it takes to remove the zinc plating.

But it does make it easier to weld the materials with out the problem of the zinc boiling off and since it is a cumulative effect on ones body.

By the way it will also remove most mill scale, and fire scale too from steel.

The choice of vinegar, better known as Acetic Acid, glacial acetic acid and a few more. It also comes in crystals by the other names in assorted percentage's for 3% to 80%

It is safe for kids, pets and wildlife, plus the disposal of it doesn't cause other problems like the acids etc.

The boiling temperature of zinc is less than the melting temperature of iron. In order to weld, you melt the iron. Any zinc on the iron will then boil off. The zinc condenses in the atmosphere into a 'smoke' and oxidizes. Nice small particles. You then breathe them in and they sit in your mouth,windpipe, lungs, ...

Some people are not (or claim not to be) affected by it. Others get "zinc fume flu" -- basically you get flu symptoms for a short while and feel really bad but it passes and you are fine (maybe).

A few people are profoundly affected by it.
You won't know which you are until it happens.

You also can grind it off from the areas you will be welding. You should do so, while wearing an appropriate rated respirator, Not just the big box dust masks that are often missed used for the wrong materials.

But that's another post!
 
Ooo, thanks for the tip, this is probably a lot cheaper than the commercial zinc removal washes I have used in the past.
 
Yes and no, If it is a heavy hot dipped multi layer coating it might not do much. But for most of the coatings on the Hardware at the big box home stores and tractor supply or the other places that sell the import and low buck hardware.

I have had to leave it in overnight, It is great as long as you aren't in a hurry. The a grinder/flap wheel is my weapon of choice. It is also kid, pet and wildlife friendly.
:thumb:
 
I've been doing this for years on my nuts/bolts/washers to drop the plating off, lot safer than burning.

I use equal parts vinegar and lemon juice.
I remember being told that it works faster at one point.. and it seemed to work quicker for me that way as well.

After I pull em out I drop em in baking soda to neutralize the acids for the lemon juice and vinegar, then wipe that off so that doesn't start to rust the metal.

Then I'm good to go.
 
OK, I keep reading that Galvanized is bad for smoking, but have never seen the reason why.
Could someone enlighten me (and I am sure many other readers)?
 
OK, I keep reading that Galvanized is bad for smoking, but have never seen the reason why.
Could someone enlighten me (and I am sure many other readers)?

Metal poisoning sux.. It can be lethal. When the heat starts to break down the coatings, they are released in the air as fumes and the food soaks em up..
 
OK, I keep reading that Galvanized is bad for smoking, but have never seen the reason why.
Could someone enlighten me (and I am sure many other readers)?

PTSideshow said:
The boiling temperature of zinc is less than the melting temperature of iron. In order to weld, you melt the iron. Any zinc on the iron will then boil off. The zinc condenses in the atmosphere into a 'smoke' and oxidizes. Nice small particles. You then breathe them in and they sit in your mouth,windpipe, lungs, ...

The closer to the fire in the grill or firebox and the closer to the hottest part of the fire, the more of a likely hood of some of the materials in the coating reaching higher enough temps to start coming off and contaminating the items you are cooking.

A lot of people on the net treat it like a joke, it isn't. There was a blacksmith a well respected guy that knew better. Yet even thought he sent his assistant out of the shop while he was burning the zinc off some hardware in his forge! when they went back in to see what was taking so long they found him dead from the fume poisoning. I will have to hunt up the link it was posted on one of the smithing sites. It didn't take long or much.

And drinking milk doesn't work or protect you, the mucilage that is a component in the milk relives the symptoms for a while. But it was found that it didn't have any lasting benefit.

My father worked in a foundry pouring zinc alloys and bearings in the 1950's they made them drink a pint of milk before they started,before going back after lunch and one before leaving work it only masked to the flu like stuffy headed symptoms.
They all would rather work on the brass line then the zinc line. Mind you brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, but the bond between the copper and zinc is much stronger in brass.

There really no benefit to using galvanized hardware in any area that is exposed to fire/heat which is extreme rapid oxidation. Which is what rust is, ever notice the ferrous metal after a fire. With in hours the oxidation of rusting takes over from the oxidation of the fire!

If you what top extend the life of your hardware in the firebox area or the higher heat part of the smoker/grill use Stainless Steel hardware and a good quality at that. As some of the import stainless will rust in an eye blink.
 
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