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High Temp Silicone Gasket?

Porky

is Blowin Smoke!
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First, where should I look for this? I am thinking that if I put this stuff on the lip of my kettle cover that it should seal it real good. I have been smoking whole chickens and thighs in the kettle and noticed that I am losing alot of heat around the edges. Also, contemplating getting the Smokenator mentioned in a recent thread, does anyone own one of these and what are the pros and cons. Any advise here is appreciated.

:smile:
 
I used rope gasket, held on with silicone (from a caulking tube). I tried the adhesive that came with the rope gasket, and it failed quickly.
 
High Heat Gasket Maker is available at any auto parts store. I believe the orange stuff is good for 700F. It is what I used around my drum lip to make it more flat for my lid to seal against.
 
My wife works at an appliance store. The silicon gasket is very common on newer stoves. You might check them out.
 
Permatex Red High Temp RTV silcone gasket maker. Comes in a pressurized tube from Auto supply stores. Good up to 650* (26MA Item #81915 )

I use it on my UDS Weber lids, should work for what you want to do!

If your trying to seal a firebox try a Rutland fiber gasket and cement. Ace carries a blister card with them both or you can buy gasket in bulk length.
 
Looked this up on the McMaster Carr site and got it today. It is Dow Corning 736 RTV Sealant, Heat Resistant.

I hope to get in put on my BBChef this weekend. I think it will be the right stuff and most importantly it is NSF approved. So it is good for working with food.

I am curious about the best way to clean the years old grease off the edges around the doors so the silicon will adhere well. I tried the gasket and adhesive used on wood stoves and it only lasted one cook.

Unless someone has a better idea I plan on running a bead around the doors and I am hoping the weight of the door will cause the silicone to have a reasonably tight seal with the cooking chamber and firebox. I also will run a bead around the smoke stack and any other places I see smoke escaping.

Appreciate any thoughts.
 
Use Grease Lightening (or whatever it's called) or something like that to get the gunk off and to clean the steel really well. Then you should be able to get the stuff to stick.
 
Use Grease Lightning, Oven & BBQ cleaner, or Simple Green and a scrub brush to clean the inside of the door. Once you are done scrubbing, rinse thoroughly, you might want to keep going over in passes until it is clean. Once clean, rub the inside of the door down with plenty of rubbing alcohol. That will remove any film left behind by the prior cleaners, it just doesn't work really well for heavy gunk.
 
Little hint about bonding RTV. Use what ever cleaner to clean surface. Then if metal is thick enough use a punch and lightly peen a pattern where RTV will stick, if not thick enough rough up with corse sand paper. Outline area with low stick tape. Wipe area with acetone. Apply silicone. If you want to smooth RTV get a small bowl and fill with water. Put in a couple or 3 drops of dish detergent. Dip fingers in solution and shake off excess. You can smooth silicone. It will get a skin on it as you touch it with your wet fingers. Keep fingers damp by rewetting. Not dripping, just damp. Silicone will not stick to fingers and not roll as long as not partially setup.
When happy let set for 30 minutes or so. Peel back tape and dab edge with moist fingers if you get any stringers. Make sense?
 
Yep that makes sense. It is about the same when you caulk around the tub or shower.
Still trying to decide whether to put one bead on the door and see if the weight will form a seal, ie silicone to metal or put a bead on the door and a smoothed out bead on the chamber so the seal would be silicone to silicone.

Thanks for the cleaners, especially using rubbing alcohol or acetone and roughing up with course sand paper.
 
I went to the McMaster & Carr site and I see different types of gaskets, ok, I am a dummy, which type & thickness would be the best for sealing the cover of my Weber OTG to the body of the kettle and which would be best for sealing the cooking chamber door to the body of my Bar B Chef offset?
 
I am going to try it without a gasket on the BBChef. I have tried the braided gasket used on wood burning stoves before and it is pretty thick, I had to weight down the lid which I did not like. Luckily at the time it only lasted one cook. I will let you all know how the 736 works with a small bead on the door of the BBChef. Also I should be able to seal up any other leaking areas with just the 736.

Don't know what a OTG is so no help there.
 
Les, I got this stuff for a door gasket adhesive but I am not sure how it would work for your application.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33599
I got the black hi-temp cement (good up to 1000F, part number 7573A29) but I haven't used it yet.


I looked around here and since we don't have wood/pellet/oil stoves in So Cal. our hardware stores don't sell it. You can Will Call it at Mc Master Carr in Norwalk. Their stuff is a tad bit higher but you get it quick.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Page 3345 for tadpole seals, 3346 for rope seals. Page 3308 for adhesive.

Or
http://amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw/10...s=aps&field-keywords=furnace+gasket&x=13&y=16

or http://search.ebay.com/search/searc...action=compare&copagenum=1&coentrypage=search

Also C Rocke put this in my thread.

Orange County Appliance Parts in Garden Grove is a source for gasket material. The stuff I gave Fin is the product listed here - I ordered free samples, and took about a week to get.


Based on my research, Dow Corning 736 had the best properties (up to 600 deg. F.) In case anyone else is interested go to:
http://www.dowcorning.com/applicatio...0590&type=PROD for more info. You can also request 2 free samples.
 
I used degreaser and then acetone. The acetone is really volatile, so, wear gloves, and do it in a well ventilated area (outside, if possible), and away from flames. You can almost watch the stuff evaporate from the can. Works great.
 
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