• xenforo has sucessfully updated our forum software last night. Howevr, that has returned many templates to stock formats which MAY be missing some previous functionality. It has also fixed some boroken templates Ive taken offline. Reat assured, we are working on getting our templates back to normal, but will take a few days. Im working top down, so best bet is to stick with the default templates as I work thru them.

Growing Peppers from Seeds

Back to basics. A seed has everything in it needed for germination. It's after the seedling emerges that it needs out side the seed help. You do not need light for germination. Peat has no nutritional value it's only a medium. You can germinate a seed in a damp paper towel inside a baggie. All it needs is a warm slightly damp environment. Seedlings don't need light before they emerge. They don't need food until they are about two inches tall. Hope this helps.
 
I have been gardening since...well, I can't remember how long. I used to grow competitively, but now just grow for the fun of it. Next to tomatoes, peppers are one of the easiest and most forgiving plants to start from seed. I'll describe my personal method for what it's worth.

1. I only use my own seeds or those from a reputable source.
2. I start all of my pepper seeds in a soilless seed starting mix made from screening my preferred growing medium Pro Mix BX.
3. I start the seeds in a controlled environment. Peppers are particular to the soil temp they are being germinated in. A warm room is generally sufficient, but can slow germination a bit if it's not warm enough. It's not a big deal though as it only adds a few days.
4. Once the seeds are up, I place them in my grow chamber. Since I plant the seeds in early March and my greenhouses are unheated, temporary units, I have use grow lights. I don't use the more expensive grow lights, but just the sunshine spectrum bulbs. The trick is to keep the lights as close to the plants as possible, without touching the leaves. You should also cycle the lights on and off at 12 hour intervals.
5. I don't start fertilizing until the second set of true leaves develop, then I start feeding with a weak fish fertilizer, ie Alaskan Fish or other such product mixed at 1/4 to 1/2 the recommended strength.
6. When I start feeding, I also pot the plants up into 4" containers using Pro Mix BX as the medium.
7. As soon as I can rely on temps in the greenhouses to remain above 50°F, I move the plants outside. Peppers do not do well below 50° because below this temp, Potassium uptake is severely hampered leading to purple colored leaves, especially on the underside.
8. Around May 21 I move the plants into the garden. I mix a good double handful of compost into each planting hole, and stick them in.

And since everyone loves pics here are a few of my gardening escapades over the years:

Here are some peppers in the grow chamber:
peppers1.jpg


A few of one of the hoop houses:
greenhouse.jpg


tomatotable.jpg


Tableone.jpg


Broccoli and cabbages, thanks to my lovely wife for posing for scale:
7-8-07.jpg


cabbage3.jpg


Here’s a nice tomato:
tom1a.jpg


And finally, some of my giant pumpkins:
Juliain794.jpg


1095Wallace710Wallace.jpg


FWIW, I can also read and interpret soil tests and make recommendations to improve your soil, as well as identify many plant related diseases and problems.
 
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