Oklahoma Joe Highlander Firebox Question

Moose

Moose

somebody shut me the fark up.

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Batch Image
Joined
Oct 12, 2008
Location
Gallatin...
Name or Nickame
Richard
I'm getting ready to order some supplies to help bring this smoker to its fullest potential. These include:


  • Gasket sealer to prevent leaks from the juncture of the firebox and cooking chamber
  • Gasket tape to prevent leaks from the firebox and cooking chamber doors
  • Tuning plate
  • Duct elbow
I was also considering this firebasket:


http://www.bbqsmokermods.com/product-p/ll-12106-lsr.htm


My question is this:


Would I be better off just having a piece of expanded metal cut to fit over the existing grate? It sure would be a lot cheaper.


Feedback greatly appreciated!
 
The benefit of a basket is if you want to keep the coals in a smaller area or if you want to run charcoal.

I think most people would say just go with the piece of expanded metal unless you want to run charcoal.
 
Don't do Duct Elbow. If you are gonna run on wood just a fire grate not a basket - firebox is small enough already basket makes it harder to fit splits. Gaskets never last long and leaks don't hurt nuttin.......
 
Just curious is a highland at 200 a good deal new? My local wm has them on clearance. Just bought a pellet popper for about 60% off. But hey tis the season right?
 
FrugalQ said:
Just curious is a highland at 200 a good deal new? My local wm has them on clearance. Just bought a pellet popper for about 60% off. But hey tis the season right?
Click to expand...

$200 is a good deal, yes.
 
SmittyJonz said:
Don't do Duct Elbow. If you are gonna run on wood just a fire grate not a basket - firebox is small enough already basket makes it harder to fit splits. Gaskets never last long and leaks don't hurt nuttin.......
Click to expand...

Why not the duct elbow?
 
To extend the chimney to grate level? It adds a bend and can restrict airflow causing Hot Spots or Dirty Fire.......and doesn't really Help much even if it still flows Well.......try it both ways and see......may work for you but many have said it either didn't Help any or Hurt airflow/temps
The ones I've seen that say it worked cut the opening at an angle on side of duct so that the opening is not pointed straight down......
 
I can't argue with anything that Smitty says. I had a Highlander and did al of the mods that you speak of, and I think the charcoal basket was one of my biggest mistakes because it limited the size of the splits that I could burn. I tried the elbow and that may be reason that I regularly had thick smoke, restriction of air flow. As far as sealing the firebox juncture, that is probably the only thing I would seal, looking back. The doors don't matter much if you burn sticks.
 
Expanded metal base for fire grate. Heat baffle at the connection. Thats all i would do.

I have the longhorn. Same smoker only longer. Yes there will be a temp gradient i dont mind it. It's a cooker that i am jist now outgrowing after almost 3 years
 
I also had a variation on the tuning plate. I bought about 6 of the generic flavorizer bars from Lowes and used them. I just spaced them out along the cook chamber and the heat was more evenly distributed. Just make sure that they are long enough so they will be above the heat vent.
 
Ok, thanks for the feedback everyone! Firebasket is off the list, and I just ordered a piece of expanded metal to go over the existing fire grate. Would it still be advisable to get the gasket tape and seal the firebox and cooking chamber doors, or is that just a waste of money? Is it worth sealing the juncture between the firebox and cooking chamber as well?

Definitely plan on getting the baffle/tuning plate:

http://www.bbqsmokermods.com/product-p/ok-hor-tune-hl.htm
 
I wouldn't worry to much about the leaks. Raised the cooking grate by rotating the stock one 90* & added some expanded metal - mostly to keep burning coals from escaping.

PICT1244_zpsvwfkhbkp.jpg


Had a 100* difference from one side of the cook chamber to the other. Made a diffuser:

PICT1243_zpsi9fargdz.jpg


& a convection & tuning plates:

PICT1218_zpsvrmsn7md.jpg



Temps are within 10* from end to end of the chamber from time to time. :becky:

I run 2 probes at both sides of the cook chamber. They are helpful & also will drive you nuts.

Myself... I wouldn't bother with gaskets. Might weld the top & bottom of the charcoal box someday. Or add a few bolts here & there.
Don't think a gasket or weld the firebox to the cook chamber is absolutely necessary.


fwiw - methinks there is more than one way to skin this cat.
 
Last edited:
I’m all about the efficiency of the smoker so I would do the baffle/tuning plate and RTV Silicone between the firebox and the cooking chamber. If they are bolted together like my Bandera is, take it apart and add it in between. Let the excess ooze out and stay there. Spray it with high heat paint if you want to make it look like a weld, lol.

I had a Chargriller offset with a leaky firebox. Leaks hurt the efficiency of your burn if that means anything for you.
 
Czarbecue said:
I’m all about the efficiency of the smoker so I would do the baffle/tuning plate and RTV Silicone between the firebox and the cooking chamber. If they are bolted together like my Bandera is, take it apart and add it in between. Let the excess ooze out and stay there. Spray it with high heat paint if you want to make it look like a weld, lol.

I had a Chargriller offset with a leaky firebox. Leaks hurt the efficiency of your burn if that means anything for you.
Click to expand...

Not that i dont think sealing up the firebox cook chamber union is a bad idea but if we are talking stick burner theory im gonna say i aim to be as inefficient as possiple with as little restriction to airflow as possible. I want to burn as much wood as possible, crwating as much draft as i can. More wood means more bbq compounds to the meat and the "wind" generated by the airflow is a key component to bark formation.
 
smoke ninja said:
Not that i dont think sealing up the firebox cook chamber union is a bad idea but if we are talking stick burner theory im gonna say i aim to be as inefficient as possiple with as little restriction to airflow as possible. I want to burn as much wood as possible, crwating as much draft as i can. More wood means more bbq compounds to the meat and the "wind" generated by the airflow is a key component to bark formation.
Click to expand...


More draft is one thing while having a leak in your airflow is another.
 
Czarbecue said:
More draft is one thing while having a leak in your airflow is another.
Click to expand...

I dont mind my leaky firebox. I leave the door wfo. I forego plates kust a baffle. Get that air moving

The cook chamber is sealed well enough. Moose, instead of gasket around the door try this: use a dollar bill (a baller like yourself can use a fifty if you like) between the flange and the chamber door. Slide the bill around the perimeter and bend the flange out anywhere its loose. :wink:
 
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