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?s for all you Weber Kettle Smokers

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ChefJRD

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I found a deal on C-list for a nice Weber Gold 22.5" kettle for $25, and if everything works out, I'm going to pick it up tonight. :thumb: I'd like to smoke on it, as I've been jonesing for a smoker like a WSM, but can't find any locally for cheap, and they're not in my budget new.

I've been looking at all the great posts from the Roadmap to smoking setups on the grill. My first question is, is it pretty easy to get thin blue smoke? Does it take long to get? I know the WSM takes 20 mins or so to stop billowing.

Next, when lighting it up, do you put the intakes full throttle and then choke it down when it's about the right temp, or do you choke it down from the get go? Does it depend on the method of lighting used? IE: ring of fire, minion, snake, etc.

Final question, for now, is how many of you gasket your kettle so it's super airtight? I saw some ideas like binder clips, aluminium foil, etc. What do you guys use?

Thanks for all your help. I've read quite a bit, and if you know of a useful thread, please post it, I'm always willing to read more. I'll post pics of the kettle after I get it tonight. I'd love to do a butt or two on it tomorrow and start the learning curve. :pray:
 
I always let my kettle warm up for at least an hour, it uses up a little fuel, but, I get a good stable smoke that way. I usually set the bottom vent for the temperature I am looking for, then leave the top vents wide open. I do leave the lid off for the first 15 minutes after dumping the coals in. Once the lid goes on, things level out nicely rather quickly. I use grease for my seal, once you've run a few cooks, the buildup will seal the kettle nicely. To be honest, I have never had an issue with a kettle not working great when brand new, do not drop the lid though
 
@landarc nailed it once again. Top vents open, control at bottom. No need to seal it up. Minion or snake and you can get hours of slo n lo. Yes, I have used a waterpan in the middle of the snake to help as a thermal mass at times.
 
I usually use the snake method and put a shallow pan of water under the meat being cooked (usually pork butt for me). Some have see instances where certain sections of the snake burn hotter on performers that have the gas tube coming into the base, but if this is just a standard kettle you probably won't see that, and even when I have had that happen it hasn't thrown the cook off.
 
I actually like to line the fire grate where there is no charcoal with foil, this prevents too much air from drafting around the fire.
 
Thanks for the responses guys. I saw that foil idea elsewhere, I like that and plan on using it. Can't wait to start playing... I mean... cooking, of course.
 
I must be the odd one out because I can't keep the temp below 300F with the top vent wide open. This is with a 2-2-1 fuse. I will have the lower vents barely cracked, and the temp still creeps up unless I close the top vent about 1/3-1/2 way. One Brethren opined that kettles let in too much air, and two of the bottom vents should be taped over with furnace tape. I have not yet tried this, though.
 
Roguejim said:
I must be the odd one out because I can't keep the temp below 300F with the top vent wide open. This is with a 2-2-1 fuse. I will have the lower vents barely cracked, and the temp still creeps up unless I close the top vent about 1/3-1/2 way. One Brethren opined that kettles let in too much air, and two of the bottom vents should be taped over with furnace tape. I have not yet tried this, though.
Click to expand...

I do the same way and I have to close my bottom vent 3/4 of the way shut or I will be over 300 easily.
 
Little to add to Landarc's post. I use the minion method with two bricks for any smoke under 8 hours.
Firebricks.jpg

It's easier to catch the temp you want as the kettle is warming up, rather than trying to get the temp to go down, so I'd try to back off on the vents if the temp is rising too quickly.
My kettle is old,
A%20kettle_zps1vkxpy6n.jpg

so if I am going to cook at a low temp, such as 225 deg, I use three binder clips to help hold the lid tighter. Otherwise, I do nothing to seal.
As for thin blue smoke, it's less critical when you are using chunks with charcoal. I usually lay the wood chunks on top of the unlit coals, pour the lit coals on top, and the smoke has usually settled down by the time you are ready to cook.
 
Roguejim said:
I must be the odd one out because I can't keep the temp below 300F with the top vent wide open. This is with a 2-2-1 fuse. I will have the lower vents barely cracked, and the temp still creeps up unless I close the top vent about 1/3-1/2 way. One Brethren opined that kettles let in too much air, and two of the bottom vents should be taped over with furnace tape. I have not yet tried this, though.
Click to expand...

it all depends on how well your kettle seals

they all can be a little different
 
Roguejim said:
I must be the odd one out because I can't keep the temp below 300F with the top vent wide open. This is with a 2-2-1 fuse. I will have the lower vents barely cracked, and the temp still creeps up unless I close the top vent about 1/3-1/2 way. One Brethren opined that kettles let in too much air, and two of the bottom vents should be taped over with furnace tape. I have not yet tried this, though.
Click to expand...
I will admit that my answer is based on my experience using the old daisy wheel style. That said, I treat a snake cook the same as I do a minion-style cook. I use the bottom vent to control the temperature as it rises. Once the temp is set, there will, for me, be more fluctuation in the snake temps than there will be using the minion method, but the overall average temp for the cook is the same.
 
Roguejim said:
I must be the odd one out because I can't keep the temp below 300F with the top vent wide open. This is with a 2-2-1 fuse. I will have the lower vents barely cracked, and the temp still creeps up unless I close the top vent about 1/3-1/2 way. One Brethren opined that kettles let in too much air, and two of the bottom vents should be taped over with furnace tape. I have not yet tried this, though.
Click to expand...

Nope, I'm with you there too. I have to partially close the top vent, but I usually start it up with everything wide open and then close the lower to half or less when I'm 30 deg away from the target, so perhaps I need to start out with the lower vent partially closed.
 
AZRaptor said:
Nope, I'm with you there too. I have to partially close the top vent, but I usually start it up with everything wide open and then close the lower to half or less when I'm 30 deg away from the target, so perhaps I need to start out with the lower vent partially closed.
Click to expand...
As Landarc says, start with the lower vent where you think it needs to be at cook time. You can always open it more if the temp is too low. The temp will climb more slowly, but it is much easier to get it to stabilize where you wish it to be than it is to get it to cool down.
 
Pretty much as everyone else. Ring of fire, top vent wide open, bottom vent cracked slightly. I let it heat up for about 1/2 hour after dump the lit coals.
 
I've ran both methods, the snake and the minion which I use fire brick to bank coals to one side then light about 12 and put in the middle of the pile. I usually target 275°. When using the minion method I will have both the top and bottom vents wide open until I approach about 245-250°. Then I shut the bottom vent down to just a sliver. Maybe 1/8 open (I have the one touch system btw). It'll settle in where I want it. Usually between 265-285°. If I use the snake method I start with about 8-10 lit briquettes and do the same with the vent settings until about 245-250° then I close it down to just over half way. I tend to need more air with the snake.
 
Don't get hung up on pit temp there is no magic number. Take what it gives ya and be happy with it.
 
AZRaptor said:
I usually use the snake method and put a shallow pan of water under the meat being cooked (usually pork butt for me). Some have see instances where certain sections of the snake burn hotter on performers that have the gas tube coming into the base, but if this is just a standard kettle you probably won't see that, and even when I have had that happen it hasn't thrown the cook off.
Click to expand...

I have a gas assisted Performer and don't remember ever this issue. I run a snake about 85% around the grill. If I'm facing the grill, and the gas tube is at the 3 o'clock position, I run my snake from about 2 o'clock to about 4 o'clock. Burns all day, and I can keep a nice steady 225-250 with just the bottom vent.
 
What the Dawg said... Find where your pit likes to run and adjust to cook at that temp. My WSM loves 275* and will be anywhere +/- 25* of there every time.
 
AZRaptor said:
Nope, I'm with you there too. I have to partially close the top vent, but I usually start it up with everything wide open and then close the lower to half or less when I'm 30 deg away from the target, so perhaps I need to start out with the lower vent partially closed.
Click to expand...

My method, exactly. But, I don't see how starting out with the lower vent partially closed will prevent the kettle from creeping up in temp. It will just take longer. In my case, I think it's either too much air, or, too much fuel. I guess I can either tape closed two of the lower vents, or use less charcoal. I want to be able to leave the upper vent wide open, but my temps went to 340F+ the one time I did this.

Will a 2-1 fuse run for 8 hours at 275F-300F? Enough fuel?
 
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