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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, equipment and outdoor cookin' . ** Other cooking techniques are welcomed for when your cookin' in the kitchen. Post your hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures, but stay on topic and watch for that hijacking.


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Old 09-19-2017, 01:07 AM   #31
Czarbecue
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Originally Posted by 4ever3 View Post
Czar?

Still with us?

Yep. Had a 15 hour drive from Atlanta to Dallas on Monday... actually just got home and wow, a lot of responses.

I built my house with the 220v option in the garage so welding have always been on my mind. But currently my garage is full of my sister' stuff while she waits for her house to be built. The trailer/smoker is outside in my back patio. I've been looking at a MIG/flux combo for my situation but they have been the harbor freight or cheap Chinese Amazon stuff. I better re-evaluate this project to see where I want this to go.

Thanks for all the information, everyone.
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Old 09-19-2017, 01:17 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by airedale View Post
If you were going to weld up a stand for a cooker I would say "Have fun and enjoy your learning." If I knew you were going to weld a trailer I would make sure to never drive behind you.

Ha. The trailer is a heavy duty trailer with a 3500 pound axle. I have no concerns with the safety of it on the road.

The smoker is currently U-bolted to the bed with several 1.5" tubes as the frame to spread the load. This was meant to be temporary while I smoke some meat and get my ish together with the build. I figured u-bolts are good for the axle, why not the smoker?

The only problem is I'm using the original frame of the smoker on this trailer. It makes the vertical offset ridiculously tall.



For the new legs, I underestimated how thick 3/16" tubes were because honestly .1875" looked pretty puny on paper. The original plan was to bolt the new legs/stand together so the cooking chamber rested just above the fenders but an afternoon of wasteful drilling took care of that idea.

So this is all I plan to weld for the foreseeable future. I don't think I can build the skills to fabricate my own cookers, or at least good enough to sell.

Would you spend $800 for welding tools for a one and done project?
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Old 09-19-2017, 08:43 AM   #33
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If i were you i'd cut down the legs to the height you're comfortable with, i'd bolt the 2 uprights together to create 1 smoker then use 90° brackets to bolt the legs to the cross supports. That way all you need is some basic hardware and tools. Plus that way everything is easily removed or changed.
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:01 AM   #34
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As she sits, The center of gravity is way too high! Lowering the legs will help, but it really could use some weight on the deck. Consider welding a solid plate to the trailer deck. A chunk of 3/16" would probably do nicely. In addition to dropping the CG. It will provide a nice surface to build custom mounts for the smoker and fire box units. Looks like the trailer has a tip option......? Highly recommend welding the trailer bed to it's frame...no way I would ever trust that latch to hold.
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Old 09-19-2017, 10:00 AM   #35
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As she sits, The center of gravity is way too high! Lowering the legs will help, but it really could use some weight on the deck. Consider welding a solid plate to the trailer deck. A chunk of 3/16" would probably do nicely. In addition to dropping the CG. It will provide a nice surface to build custom mounts for the smoker and fire box units. Looks like the trailer has a tip option......? Highly recommend welding the trailer bed to it's frame...no way I would ever trust that latch to hold.


Yeah, I initially planned on u-bolting the bed to the frame but welding it would be better. The front section to the first bar will be a wood box so there definitely will be weight in the front.

I purchased the trailer for $250 off Craigslist so the tilt option was one of the things I just accepted about the trailer. Not to mention no tags for the past 5 years and no working lights. But one project at a time lol.
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Old 09-19-2017, 10:05 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zak View Post
If i were you i'd cut down the legs to the height you're comfortable with, i'd bolt the 2 uprights together to create 1 smoker then use 90° brackets to bolt the legs to the cross supports. That way all you need is some basic hardware and tools. Plus that way everything is easily removed or changed.

I thought about cutting the legs down but I would be back to the same problem of drilling through tubes, which is a pain in the ass without a drill press. My holes never lined up correctly. And I was using those anti-walking drill bits, pre-hammering the hole, all the tips I could find. I just finally gave up when 4 hours of work just netted me half a leg.

The original legs is this:

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Old 09-19-2017, 10:13 AM   #37
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Some good drill bits and cutting Oil you should be able to drill through the stock legs relatively easy
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Old 09-19-2017, 01:46 PM   #38
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Cut the legs to length.
Fabricate some bolt tabs. 2" L x 2" W flat bar with a hole drilled at one end.
Weld one end on the cross tubes on the trailer, match and drill holes in the cross braces of the smoker legs and bolt.
I wouldn't weld anything permanently to the trailer or cross braces.
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Old 09-19-2017, 02:47 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Kmm View Post
Have you considered going with an old school buzz box?
Not quite as easy as wire, but far more economical. For horizontal welds on 3/16" mild steel(A36), I generally run 5/16", 7018's at about 140 Amps (dc). If I need to run vertical welds, I will generally lay down a base bead with 5/16, 6011's at around 130 Amps (dc) and then follow with 7018's for the cap. Yeah it is slower, there is more splatter and constantly stoping to feed rods is a pia, but there is also something very reassuring about "feeling" the work and knowing the quality of your welds even before the slag has cooled.
I saw one at Northern Tool for $279... Hobart Stickmate 205.. But I did a quick Amazon check and it needed 50-60 amps on the outlet. I am sure that is completely out of the question with my current breaker box.

I ended getting the same machine Smitty has for about $100 and some change with a coupon. I guess I can cut my teeth with this for now.
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Old 09-19-2017, 03:23 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czarbecue View Post
I saw one at Northern Tool for $279... Hobart Stickmate 205.. But I did a quick Amazon check and it needed 50-60 amps on the outlet. I am sure that is completely out of the question with my current breaker box.

I ended getting the same machine Smitty has for about $100 and some change with a coupon. I guess I can cut my teeth with this for now.
Replace the ground clamp -it sucks. Get one with copper on both sides $8-$16-$24 on Amazon depending on which one you get. I been running .035 wire but gonna try .030 when I run out

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002A...kAL&ref=plSrch


Wire

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001...e+welding+wire

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003E...nXL&ref=plSrch
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Old 09-19-2017, 03:42 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by SmittyJonz View Post
I have this One: Ironton FluxCore 125 amp, variable wire speed but only 2 voltage settings. Flux Core Only.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2003_200632003

Sticking with Flux Core does anyone think I'd gain much going to a Hobart 130 Handler with 4 Voltage settings and variable wire speed. (besides that it's Mig ready)

https://www.farmandfleet.com/product...RoCzcIQAvD_BwE
Any thoughts on this.?
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Old 09-19-2017, 04:43 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebijack View Post
liner and tip.
I checked with Hobart as I'll Probally move up to a Hobart Handler 130 or 140 in the Future and they said no liner change necessary.

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Old 09-19-2017, 05:47 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czarbecue View Post
I saw one at Northern Tool for $279... Hobart Stickmate 205.. But I did a quick Amazon check and it needed 50-60 amps on the outlet. I am sure that is completely out of the question with my current breaker box.

I ended getting the same machine Smitty has for about $100 and some change with a coupon. I guess I can cut my teeth with this for now.

That $279 buzzbox is the AC only model. You would want the AC/DC which are $540 at Tractor Supply.


I have mine on Craiglist for $250 with no takers. Strange. All I got was one Craigslist scammer asking about it. I thought it would be gone in 2-3 days. If I dont get a bite in the next week or so I will drop it to $200. If no takers.....I will just consider it a loss and give it away.

https://houston.craigslist.org/for/d...308000978.html

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Old 09-19-2017, 06:06 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockinar View Post
That $279 buzzbox is the AC only model. You would want the AC/DC which are $540 at Tractor Supply.


I have mine on Craiglist for $250 with no takers. Strange. All I got was one Craigslist scammer asking about it. I thought it would be gone in 2-3 days. If I dont get a bite in the next week or so I will drop it to $200. If no takers.....I will just consider it a loss and give it away.

https://houston.craigslist.org/for/d...308000978.html
Thanks for the time table
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Old 09-19-2017, 06:42 PM   #45
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Don't waste your money on Harbor Freight, Northern welders. I'd buy a minimum of a 140 in Miller or Lincoln. Brand name, warranty repairs, easy to find consumables.

I have a Lincoln 140 that I keep loaded with .023 wire for welding thin gauge steel and a Lincoln 210 loaded with .035.
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