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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, equipment and outdoor cookin' . ** Other cooking techniques are welcomed for when your cookin' in the kitchen. Post your hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures, but stay on topic and watch for that hijacking.


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Old 12-02-2006, 08:49 AM   #1
Brauma
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Default cutting board maintenance

How do you maintain your cutting board besides washing? I found this article: http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/butcherblock.html

Use of mineral oil is all Ive ever heard. This article goes a little further. Interesting.
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Old 12-02-2006, 09:00 AM   #2
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"It is important to note that Rockhard Maple and a few other closed grained hardwoods are the only suitable woods for cutting board use. Never use oak, ash, hickory or other open grained woods for a cutting surface as the pores can harbor germs and decaying food particles."


Interesting as I thought Oak would be ok.
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Old 12-02-2006, 09:43 AM   #3
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Alittle bleach on the plastic works for me.
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Old 12-02-2006, 09:53 AM   #4
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... we spray Citricidal often on all our food surfaces and allow to stand for several minutes before wiping fairly dry. It is always in a spray bottle by the sink for fresh fruit and veggies. This may not be acceptable for any commercial or heavy outsider traffic, but it has worked very well for us over many years.
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Old 12-02-2006, 10:02 AM   #5
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For plastic I like to use a thin paste of comet and water.
For wood, bleach and using salt as an abrasive works real well.
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Old 12-02-2006, 12:02 PM   #6
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Other than personal prefrence, is wood better than plastic or vice versa?
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Old 12-02-2006, 12:17 PM   #7
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http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=woo...p=mss&ei=UTF-8

I had been under the impression that maple cutting boards had an enzyme that killed bacteria, but according to these articles that is not the case. What the articles are really saying is to clean and santize your board really well and often.

In one of the articles they say to use a solution of 1 part vinegar to 5 parts water. I like this option over bleach (one teaspoon in a quart of water).
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Old 12-02-2006, 12:25 PM   #8
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I read years ago of a study At the U of M and it proved a wood cutting board retained way less bacteria than plastic.
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Old 12-02-2006, 02:14 PM   #9
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I primarily use plastic. They are just the right size to slip into the dishwasher. I have about three so I can always grab a clean one. The trick there is on larger boards to always put them in the dishwasher with the dirty side facing in so it gets cleaned well. Smaller boards can fit into the interior racks and that is not an issue.

For my maple boards, I will from time to time wipe them down with olive oil on all sides to keep them from drying out and cracking. After use I give them a good wash with hot water and anti-baticerial soap. Then a good hot rinse.
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Old 12-02-2006, 02:24 PM   #10
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Seems like we can always find something to have a conversation about, huh?
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Old 12-02-2006, 02:38 PM   #11
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Ok, am I just crazy or those of you that have used both, do you notice that knives are easily dulled on plastic cutting boards? I don't use those fancy knives with weird edges that cut in one direction only. True hard steel blades.
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Old 12-02-2006, 09:12 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbqjoe
I read years ago of a study At the U of M and it proved a wood cutting board retained way less bacteria than plastic.
I wouldn't have guessed that. I've always heard the opposite, but not from real studies or anything. I'm thinking about building a big wood board.
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Old 12-02-2006, 09:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoker
"It is important to note that Rockhard Maple and a few other closed grained hardwoods are the only suitable woods for cutting board use. Never use oak, ash, hickory or other open grained woods for a cutting surface as the pores can harbor germs and decaying food particles."


Interesting as I thought Oak would be ok.
Oak and Ash (very similar to Oak) are hardwoods, but Oak, especially Red Oak, is very porous. It can actually be a difficult wood to work with for things like routing if you don't know how to handle it. I can splinter easily.

Wood cutting boards should be made so that the top of the board is all end grain. This way you are cutting into the wood fibers and not across the wood fibers. The wood will be less likely to splinter and warp. You see that on butcher blocks where they are made of many smaller blocks of wood stood on end rather than long boards laminated together.
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Old 12-02-2006, 09:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plowboy
Oak and Ash (very similar to Oak) are hardwoods, but Oak, especially Red Oak, is very porous. It can actually be a difficult wood to work with for things like routing if you don't know how to handle it. I can splinter easily.

Wood cutting boards should be made so that the top of the board is all end grain. This way you are cutting into the wood fibers and not across the wood fibers. The wood will be less likely to splinter and warp. You see that on butcher blocks where they are made of many smaller blocks of wood stood on end rather than long boards laminated together.
HA!!!! I read the link from Brauma's first post...

"Never use oak, ash, hickory or other open grained woods for a cutting surface as the pores can harbor germs and decaying food particles. Softer closed grained woods deteriorate with knife cuts and usage and become unsanitary and wood splinters or particles wind up in foodstuffs."

Exactly!! When I'm not watching Good Eats or America's Test Kitchen, I've got my nose in woodworking magazines. I love hobby crossover!
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Old 12-02-2006, 09:33 PM   #15
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When I replaced our counter tops here at home, I cut two 24"x24" sections out of the old tops for cutting boards, sealed the sides and back with and epoxy paint. Been using them for 4-5 years now, easy to clean, a little hard on the blades though( formica ). I also have a smaller maple board that I like and use a lot. It gets bleached after each use and the mineral oil applied.
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