cmwr
is Blowin Smoke!
I have access now to a good 220 Miller wire welder and I may want to weld on a drum. How easy is it to weld a 55 gallon drum without warping and curling the steel? Thanks
Last edited:
Do you have 220v or 440v wired to the unit as they can be wired for either. You want 440 if ever switching over to mig welding aluminum.
Your main problem is getting the current setting and wire speed low enough to not burn thru the steel. If you are not used to welding with a 220 mig.
Even the 120v units are set around 50% power and 40% wire speed to weld a cast iron fitting on a drum.
Welding just steel, 30 -40% power and 30% wire speed on a 120V
Depending on the mig you have access too. You might not be able to dial the power/speed down low enough.
Was that welding with gas or flux where you had that problem.
That was your problem.
I've done a lot of welding on drums to make my smokers. Haven't seen much warpage except when welding exhaust vents on drum lids, hard to keep them from distorting if you weld on them. I've used 220 VAC and 120 VAC machines. Have welded drums withe Millermatic and Lincol 210's and 140's
Mig weld with gas
Sand and clean areas to be welded thoroughly
Good ground
.025 - .030 wire
Spot - stitch weld - kind of like welding in a patch panel on a car body
Overall, there isn't really anything that is so large that you'll warp your drum. I've welded in a few fire box access doors in my day and they wouldn't warp the drum, had some burn throughs though.
Believe it or not, I've used heat resistant RTV and heat resistant JB Weld to fill in between the areas where I didn't completely fill in the seam with weld.
My stubby used a ring cut from the top and I pop riveted the two halves together. I used red rtv before sliding the two pieces together. I grill with this also and have had temps around 450 on up and rtv is holding up fine. So you were saying to go around the entire drum with spot welds? I figured I would tack weld to hold in place then go around entire drum with a continuous bead. Maybe that’s too much heat?
What are you welding to the drum?
Once you get a bead started, you'll burn through the drum. I built my first fire door access using spot welds until the entire perimeter of the door frame was welded in. No warpage, but I didn't do a continuous bead.
For small pieces that I weld to the drum, yes, small beads. Large pieces, spot weld and ffill with RTV or JB Weld.
In some cases, bolts or screws are options.
I have access now to a good 220 Miller wire welder and I may want to weld on a drum. How easy is it to weld a 55 gallon drum without warping and curling the steel? Thanks
It's easy if you know what you are doing.
First: How thick is your drum?
Second: What size wire you plan on running? This will play a factor on how well this drum will turn out and if it's the appropriate size for said drum.
Third: What gas you running with the wire? If it's in a thin drum, I would use GMAW short circuit mode of metal transfer.
If you are uncomfortable with welding on it, see if you have a Local CTC or College with a welding program that can assist you..
Also, be very cautious on welding on a drum, especially if it's sealed already; expansion of metal is dangerous, deathly dangerous. If you ware welding to seal it, the same applies, so be careful..
There is no reason to weld all the way around two pieces of drum put together if over lapped joint. Drill 5/16" holes on the outer piece every 4 to 6". Puddle weld the holes closed attaching/welding the pieces together. Same as a spot weld. No RTV required. After seasoning and a few cooks. That joint will be junked up and sealed.So you were saying to go around the entire drum with spot welds? I figured I would tack weld to hold in place then go around entire drum with a continuous bead. Maybe that’s too much heat?
There is no reason to weld all the way around two pieces of drum put together if over lapped joint. Drill 5/16" holes on the outer piece every 4 to 6". Puddle weld the holes closed attaching/welding the pieces together. Same as a spot weld. No RTV required. After seasoning and a few cooks. That joint will be junked up and sealed.
IMHO, unless you use a 220v machine alot.
You will blow lots of holes. Most folks who say they weld, blow holes using a 120v mig when welding on thin gauge metals.
It can be done with a 220v. But doing yourself, might cause more problems and starting over.
Pretty sure the 220 you have access to is using 80/20 or 75/25 NOX common mix.
Unless they also switch over to using the gun and mig welding alum. Then you use different gas.