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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, equipment and outdoor cookin' . ** Other cooking techniques are welcomed for when your cookin' in the kitchen. Post your hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures, but stay on topic and watch for that hijacking.


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Old 10-11-2021, 08:55 AM   #46
Pife
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I use a Jaw Horse clamping work table to hold wood.

And a small electric chain saw to cut. Works good.
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Old 10-11-2021, 09:37 AM   #47
JeffinNE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Connor_Macleod View Post
How about a table saw - has anyone tried it?
That's what I use...works great...especially after using kindling cracker to split in half.
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Old 10-11-2021, 09:40 AM   #48
mcdeadstein
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Go spend the 80 bucks on some gator loppers. They make quick and safe work of cutting up the splits. I had a couple kick backs using the miter saw and after the 2nd one I was done forever. The gator loppers are so easy to use and really designed for cutting irregular pieces of wood/branches.
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Old 10-11-2021, 09:41 AM   #49
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For reference:

Gator Loppers: Loppers here
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Old 10-11-2021, 11:06 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcdeadstein View Post
Go spend the 80 bucks on some gator loppers. They make quick and safe work of cutting up the splits. I had a couple kick backs using the miter saw and after the 2nd one I was done forever. The gator loppers are so easy to use and really designed for cutting irregular pieces of wood/branches.

My brother has one of those, I'll have to borrow it to see how it works on my splits.
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Old 10-11-2021, 11:54 AM   #51
Dustin Dorsey
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That lopper saw is what I'm using. I'm wondering how it will hold up over time, but it works well. I've had the chain come off and had to readjust it. There's a max size it will cut so you may have to split the wood first.
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Old 10-11-2021, 12:00 PM   #52
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Miter saws are for cutting dimensional lumber. You are asking for problems if you use one to cut firewood.

Use a bandsaw, chainsaw or just buy the correct size logs for your smoker.
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Old 10-11-2021, 02:20 PM   #53
JeffinNE
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That's what I use...works great...especially after using kindling cracker to split in half.
Check that...was googling and I have a radial arm saw I inherited...always just called it a table saw. Works great except for thicker splits.
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Old 10-11-2021, 09:08 PM   #54
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use a ratchet strap to bundle a bunch with the strap off to the side a bit. then chainsaw the whole bunch. easy peasy.
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Old 10-12-2021, 11:48 AM   #55
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Use my compound miter to chop the splits down into chunks for the IVC. Works great! Much easier, and a little less wasteful than the chainsaw. I keep the blade pretty sharp on the saw, so I don't end up with too much catching.
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Old 10-12-2021, 02:26 PM   #56
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With a Table Saw, the rotation of the Blade would be TOWARDS the User generating a high probability of kickback.....with a Miter Saw, the blade rotation is AWAY from the User and it pushes the wood too the fence. I've had kickbacks with dimensional soft woods on a table saw....no way I'd want to try and cut unevenly shaped Hardwoods on a table saw.

Also, most table saws use 10" blades and max cut is something less than 3" by the time the blade clears the table. I wouldn't use anything smaller than a 12" Miter/Chopsaw.
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Old 10-12-2021, 09:04 PM   #57
jjrkegler
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Just saw this post and will admit I just skimmed it to get to the end. Used to use my mitre saw to cut splits into chunks. Blade grabbed a knot and smashed the split into the back rail with my finger behind it. Looked likemashed potatoes and took 12 stitches to piece it back together. The urgent care doc liked it because it took some creativity to seal it up. 5 years later and I have about 90% feeling back. Don't use a mitre saw. Buy chunks or get a clamp and use sawzall.
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Old 10-12-2021, 11:37 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdhbrad View Post
With a Table Saw, the rotation of the Blade would be TOWARDS the User generating a high probability of kickback.....with a Miter Saw, the blade rotation is AWAY from the User and it pushes the wood too the fence. I've had kickbacks with dimensional soft woods on a table saw....no way I'd want to try and cut unevenly shaped Hardwoods on a table saw.

Also, most table saws use 10" blades and max cut is something less than 3" by the time the blade clears the table. I wouldn't use anything smaller than a 12" Miter/Chopsaw.
Agreed that a table saw only works for thin splits (~3" or less); however, if I stand on the back side of the saw and pull the split toward me, the kickback would go away from me instead of toward me...but then again, it might throw my hand into the blade, and that wouldn't be good at all. So I'm thinking the table saw is not a good idea.
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Old 10-13-2021, 06:45 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Connor_Macleod View Post
Agreed that a table saw only works for thin splits (~3" or less); however, if I stand on the back side of the saw and pull the split toward me, the kickback would go away from me instead of toward me...but then again, it might throw my hand into the blade, and that wouldn't be good at all. So I'm thinking the table saw is not a good idea.
I would never stand behind my Tablesaw and try to run it. Motor and drive belt are exposed in the rear. Switch is in the front and NO way to use the fence to guide the wood. No thanks.
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Old 10-13-2021, 02:47 PM   #60
JeffinNE
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Tried my miter saw and got some kick back so have been using my radial arm saw with no kick back but have to turn the thicker splits 2-4 times sometimes to get thru wheras the miter saw will go thru with only 1 cut.

How about just making a cheap wooden miter box and putting the split inside it to avoid kickback on the miter saws??
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