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Q-talk *ON TOPIC ONLY* QUALITY ON TOPIC discussion of Backyard BBQ, grilling, equipment and outdoor cookin' . ** Other cooking techniques are welcomed for when your cookin' in the kitchen. Post your hints, tips, tricks & techniques, success, failures, but stay on topic and watch for that hijacking.


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Old 10-10-2021, 09:31 AM   #16
Mike Twangzer
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I have heard of people using one of these although I can't vouch for its effectiveness.
Seems safer ... https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-...83406524&psc=1
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Old 10-10-2021, 09:40 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by PaPaQ View Post
I sure like my large kindling cracker and my fingers.



https://www.kindlingcracker.com/

Yea kindling cracker is the way to go. I have the XL model
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Old 10-10-2021, 09:44 AM   #18
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Miter saw works very good, but like everyone else has said things can move fast. Not sure the brand I have, bought it pretty cheep at a flea market.. I'm usually cutting on pieces that are roughly soda can size or smaller to make hunks for the kettle or MB 1050. I have had several kickbacks,, which so far have scared me more than hurt me. Mine is not on a stand, usually pull it out of the garage onto the concrete floor in front, so I'm kneeling. In this position, watch the jewels!

The piece of wood being against the fence/rail is key, and I've also found that most of the kickeback I've encountered happens after the cut, when I'm bringing the blade back up, and it's usually on.pieces that aren't straight/flush on the rail or floor of thesaw, so the piece moves after being cut. Most of the time I will hold the blade carriage down, and use a helper stick to clear the cut piece away, then proceed. It works great and is quick to do what I need. I just have to remember to not try to go too fast, that's usually when the problems happen.
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Old 10-10-2021, 09:44 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by SirPorkaLot View Post
Yea kindling cracker is the way to go. I have the XL model

But that's for splitting.


I need to cut 16" splits to 8" to 10" length, after they've been split.


And I don't want to spend $300 to $1000 for a band saw.
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Old 10-10-2021, 09:48 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Twangzer View Post
I have heard of people using one of these although I can't vouch for its effectiveness.
Seems safer ... https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-...83406524&psc=1

My brother has one of those and I think its for pruning. IDK how to hold a split to use this on it.


I have a $40 Harbor Freight 14" electric chain saw and its really over matched by some of these cuts I have to make on larger pieces of wood.


I've been shopping for a quality 16" battery powered chain saw, or maybe gas powered.
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Old 10-10-2021, 10:30 AM   #21
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But that's for splitting.


I need to cut 16" splits to 8" to 10" length, after they've been split.


And I don't want to spend $300 to $1000 for a band saw.
If you're needing to cut long splits in half (not make lots of cuts for chunks), how about making a rack that holds and supports the long pieces on both ends and allows you to cut them in half with the chainsaw? Have seen a pic on a other forum, I will try to find.....
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Old 10-10-2021, 10:37 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Eckie View Post
If you're needing to cut long splits in half (not make lots of cuts for chunks), how about making a rack that holds and supports the long pieces on both ends and allows you to cut them in half with the chainsaw? Have seen a pic on a other forum, I will try to find.....

I made a saw buck. The chain saw rolls the smaller pieces of wood, they don't have enough weight to counter the rotation of the blade.


Now, that could be due to my cheap harbor freight chain saw, but I don't think so.


The reciprocating saw will work, but it labors and takes a lot longer.


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Old 10-10-2021, 10:43 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckie View Post
Miter saw works very good, but like everyone else has said things can move fast. Not sure the brand I have, bought it pretty cheep at a flea market.. I'm usually cutting on pieces that are roughly soda can size or smaller to make hunks for the kettle or MB 1050. I have had several kickbacks,, which so far have scared me more than hurt me. Mine is not on a stand, usually pull it out of the garage onto the concrete floor in front, so I'm kneeling. In this position, watch the jewels!

The piece of wood being against the fence/rail is key, and I've also found that most of the kickeback I've encountered happens after the cut, when I'm bringing the blade back up, and it's usually on.pieces that aren't straight/flush on the rail or floor of thesaw, so the piece moves after being cut. Most of the time I will hold the blade carriage down, and use a helper stick to clear the cut piece away, then proceed. It works great and is quick to do what I need. I just have to remember to not try to go too fast, that's usually when the problems happen.



That's what I've found, its the reason I no longer use the miter saw to cut all the way through the piece.


I made a table for my miter saw, using an old computer desk top and a Black and Decker Workmate. I put a 1 X 6 across the bottom of the desk top so I could clamp the table onto the Workmate.


And I always work outside. It also blows saw dust into my garden, make good compost.



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Old 10-10-2021, 11:02 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn Dollar View Post
I made a saw buck. The chain saw rolls the smaller pieces of wood, they don't have enough weight to counter the rotation of the blade.


Now, that could be due to my cheap harbor freight chain saw, but I don't think so.


The reciprocating saw will work, but it labors and takes a lot longer.


Amazingly I waded through that forum and somehow found the pic I was looking for. Waiting on owners permission to post here. I think what he made is a great way to do it, and solves the small piece rolling on you, as well as increases production. I will post it as soon as I get the ok
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Old 10-10-2021, 11:14 AM   #25
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Picture posted with permission from owner. I can copy and paste what he wrote if needed, but I think it will be pretty self explanatory. He made it from scrap wood he had around. Note the ratchet strap used to hold and stabilize the wood.
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Old 10-10-2021, 11:55 AM   #26
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Well, that's an idea
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Old 10-10-2021, 12:17 PM   #27
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I had the same problem other stated when using a chop saw. Now I put the piece of wood in my bench vise and use my Dewalt 20v sawzaw with a fast cut blade. I have multiple manual saws hanging behind my vise, but now that I have a cordless sawzaw I usually reach for that first.

I really like chain saw shown above.
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Old 10-10-2021, 12:41 PM   #28
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I've been using a 12" Ryobi Compound Miter Saw for years, but have had a few kickbacks which make me nervous when using it for cutting down splits. Last year I just happened to be wearing sun glasses and was glad I did...got a chunk that popped off and smacked me if the face. It hit the ridge of my nose and my eye...my nose split open with a small gash, and had I not been wearing sunglasses I would have likely had some serious eye damage.

If I was looking to do it safely over a long period of time I'd go with a decent quality band saw. It's worth the money to have confidence that you won't get injured, and those bandsaw blades hold up really well and are easily changeable. Just make sure to get one which has a large enough exposed blade area so you can easily get through a large split.

As others have brought up the Kindling Kracker is amazing and you can use that to split down the large splits. This would allow you to get a smaller bandsaw and still be able to cut all your pieces down to your preferred length. To each their own but after my close call I quit using my compound miter saw for cutting down splits.
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Old 10-10-2021, 01:01 PM   #29
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I use a 4inch mini chainsaw from Amazon.
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Old 10-10-2021, 01:48 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn Dollar View Post
This type of band saw is new to me, how would this work for splits



https://www.harborfreight.com/power-...saw-64194.html


Or how about this Ryobi at Home Depot



https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-2-...904G/205503634
I have a craftsman 10” that’s very similar to the Ryobi. It’s turned out to be a really useful tool for just around the house maintenance type things vs the little bit of woodworking I do (really did).

It doesn’t have enough vertical clearance for a normal size split for this purpose — though it would be fine if you used the kindling cracker first and then cut things in half.

Blade choice is pretty limited on those small saws though so it’s going to be somewhat slower than if you were using a resawing blade on a larger one.
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