How many of you Brethren use your compound miter saw to cut down splits?

Eckie · Oct 10, 2021

Lynn Dollar said:
But that's for splitting.

I need to cut 16" splits to 8" to 10" length, after they've been split.

And I don't want to spend $300 to $1000 for a band saw.

If you're needing to cut long splits in half (not make lots of cuts for chunks), how about making a rack that holds and supports the long pieces on both ends and allows you to cut them in half with the chainsaw? Have seen a pic on a other forum, I will try to find.....

Lynn Dollar · Oct 10, 2021

Eckie said:
If you're needing to cut long splits in half (not make lots of cuts for chunks), how about making a rack that holds and supports the long pieces on both ends and allows you to cut them in half with the chainsaw? Have seen a pic on a other forum, I will try to find.....

I made a saw buck. The chain saw rolls the smaller pieces of wood, they don't have enough weight to counter the rotation of the blade.

Now, that could be due to my cheap harbor freight chain saw, but I don't think so.

The reciprocating saw will work, but it labors and takes a lot longer.

Lynn Dollar · Oct 10, 2021

Eckie said:
Miter saw works very good, but like everyone else has said things can move fast. Not sure the brand I have, bought it pretty cheep at a flea market.. I'm usually cutting on pieces that are roughly soda can size or smaller to make hunks for the kettle or MB 1050. I have had several kickbacks,, which so far have scared me more than hurt me. Mine is not on a stand, usually pull it out of the garage onto the concrete floor in front, so I'm kneeling. In this position, watch the jewels!

The piece of wood being against the fence/rail is key, and I've also found that most of the kickeback I've encountered happens after the cut, when I'm bringing the blade back up, and it's usually on.pieces that aren't straight/flush on the rail or floor of thesaw, so the piece moves after being cut. Most of the time I will hold the blade carriage down, and use a helper stick to clear the cut piece away, then proceed. It works great and is quick to do what I need. I just have to remember to not try to go too fast, that's usually when the problems happen.

That's what I've found, its the reason I no longer use the miter saw to cut all the way through the piece.

I made a table for my miter saw, using an old computer desk top and a Black and Decker Workmate. I put a 1 X 6 across the bottom of the desk top so I could clamp the table onto the Workmate.

And I always work outside. It also blows saw dust into my garden, make good compost.

Eckie · Oct 10, 2021

Lynn Dollar said:
I made a saw buck. The chain saw rolls the smaller pieces of wood, they don't have enough weight to counter the rotation of the blade.

Now, that could be due to my cheap harbor freight chain saw, but I don't think so.

The reciprocating saw will work, but it labors and takes a lot longer.

Amazingly I waded through that forum and somehow found the pic I was looking for. Waiting on owners permission to post here. I think what he made is a great way to do it, and solves the small piece rolling on you, as well as increases production. I will post it as soon as I get the ok

Eckie · Oct 10, 2021

Picture posted with permission from owner. I can copy and paste what he wrote if needed, but I think it will be pretty self explanatory. He made it from scrap wood he had around. Note the ratchet strap used to hold and stabilize the wood.

Lynn Dollar · Oct 10, 2021

Well, that's an idea

Shadowdog500 · Oct 10, 2021

I had the same problem other stated when using a chop saw. Now I put the piece of wood in my bench vise and use my Dewalt 20v sawzaw with a fast cut blade. I have multiple manual saws hanging behind my vise, but now that I have a cordless sawzaw I usually reach for that first.

I really like chain saw shown above.:clap2:

SmoothBoarBBQ · Oct 10, 2021

I've been using a 12" Ryobi Compound Miter Saw for years, but have had a few kickbacks which make me nervous when using it for cutting down splits. Last year I just happened to be wearing sun glasses and was glad I did...got a chunk that popped off and smacked me if the face. It hit the ridge of my nose and my eye...my nose split open with a small gash, and had I not been wearing sunglasses I would have likely had some serious eye damage.

If I was looking to do it safely over a long period of time I'd go with a decent quality band saw. It's worth the money to have confidence that you won't get injured, and those bandsaw blades hold up really well and are easily changeable. Just make sure to get one which has a large enough exposed blade area so you can easily get through a large split.

As others have brought up the Kindling Kracker is amazing and you can use that to split down the large splits. This would allow you to get a smaller bandsaw and still be able to cut all your pieces down to your preferred length. To each their own but after my close call I quit using my compound miter saw for cutting down splits.

Burn · Oct 10, 2021

I use a 4inch mini chainsaw from Amazon.

Dweverett · Oct 10, 2021

Lynn Dollar said:
This type of band saw is new to me, how would this work for splits

https://www.harborfreight.com/power...p-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-64194.html

Or how about this Ryobi at Home Depot

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-2-5-Amp-9-in-Band-Saw-BS904G/205503634

I have a craftsman 10” that’s very similar to the Ryobi. It’s turned out to be a really useful tool for just around the house maintenance type things vs the little bit of woodworking I do (really did).

It doesn’t have enough vertical clearance for a normal size split for this purpose — though it would be fine if you used the kindling cracker first and then cut things in half.

Blade choice is pretty limited on those small saws though so it’s going to be somewhat slower than if you were using a resawing blade on a larger one.

Dweverett · Oct 10, 2021

Another approach to using the chain saw. Little more work to build but I really like the idea.

https://youtu.be/KQEN4hn3ZQA

HogGrog · Oct 10, 2021

I use an extra large Kindling Cracker and a Milwaukee bandsaw.

And I select wood that is less than six inches diameter, split with the KC and then cut to length with bandsaw.

Lynn Dollar · Oct 10, 2021

What size Milwaukee band saw ? Is it a table top saw ?

The more I look at this portable Bauer from Harbor Freight, the more I think it will do the trick. It will cut 5" pieces, while the table top versions are 3.5" .

https://www.harborfreight.com/power...p-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-64194.html

HogGrog · Oct 10, 2021

Lynn Dollar said:
What size Milwaukee band saw ? Is it a table top saw ?

The more I look at this portable Bauer from Harbor Freight, the more I think it will do the trick. It will cut 5" pieces, while the table top versions are 3.5" .

https://www.harborfreight.com/power...p-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-64194.html

It is a 5-inch depth cut on the bandsaw.

Lynn Dollar · Oct 10, 2021

HogGrog said:
It is a 5-inch depth cut on the bandsaw.

Will the splits roll with that, as they do with my chain saw ? Or do they need to be clamped in place ?

Do you use a bi-metal blade ?

SMOKE FREAK · Oct 10, 2021

I have. I've also used a skil saw. And too, a chainsaw. Element of danger with all three. I'd use a bandsaw if I had one. But I could still cut off my thumb if I wasn't careful...

I think a chopsaw would be safest.

HogGrog · Oct 10, 2021

Lynn Dollar said:
Will the splits roll with that, as they do with my chain saw ? Or do they need to be clamped in place ?

Do you use a bi-metal blade ?

I hold the split in one hand with a flat surface on a chopping stump and cut with the other Clamping would be safer but I have not had any issues with the split rolling on me. If you start the cut with the wood against the brace and cut slow and smooth it is less likely to roll.

I use a low to medium teeth/inch blade made for cutting wood.

1MoreFord · Oct 10, 2021

Lynn Dollar said:
This type of band saw is new to me, how would this work for splits

https://www.harborfreight.com/power...p-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-64194.html

Or how about this Ryobi at Home Depot

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-2-5-Amp-9-in-Band-Saw-BS904G/205503634

IME you will be better served with the Ryobi because the other tpe saw is intended to cut metal bars, pipe, tubing, etc. I've never seen a wood cutting blade for them only metal cutting and it will take forever to cut wood with a metal cutting blade.

Also with a traditional wood cutting bandsaw you can control the workpiece with both hands for safety.

Connor_Macleod · Oct 10, 2021

How about a table saw - has anyone tried it?

Lynn Dollar · Oct 10, 2021

1MoreFord said:
IME you will be better served with the Ryobi because the other tpe saw is intended to cut metal bars, pipe, tubing, etc. I've never seen a wood cutting blade for them only metal cutting and it will take forever to cut wood with a metal cutting blade.

Also with a traditional wood cutting bandsaw you can control the workpiece with both hands for safety.

It would also be more versatile. I could use it on some other projects.

But the way understand it, the split would have to be smaller than 3.5" . They may be plenty of room for most of my splits. I could be wrong though.

How many of you Brethren use your compound miter saw to cut down splits?

Full Fledged Farker

is Blowin Smoke!

is Blowin Smoke!

Full Fledged Farker

Full Fledged Farker

is Blowin Smoke!

is One Chatty Farker

is Blowin Smoke!

Full Fledged Farker

is One Chatty Farker

is One Chatty Farker

Babbling Farker

is Blowin Smoke!

Babbling Farker

Attachments

is Blowin Smoke!

Babbling Farker

Babbling Farker

Babbling Farker

Knows what a fatty is.

is Blowin Smoke!

Similar threads