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First Weber lid UDS efficiency = HORRIBLE

cmwr

is Blowin Smoke!
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I tried my first weber lid UDS yesterday. It was a stubby. 55 gallon drum cut down to 21” tall. Charcoal basket is 16”x7 and sits 1.5” high off floor (I burn lump only so ash is not a big concern) I use a diffuser which is thin steel with 4 legs and it sits over my basket an inch or so. The basket hangs out of two sides of my square diffuser about 2” each side. Temps in center of drum yesterday were within 5 degrees apart. Running 2 slider intakes with huge cfm flow. And Weber lid using stock daisy wheel. Yesterday I used the rest of a bag of B&B lump. Mostly small pieces and a few leftover pieces from previous burns. Basket was approximately 1/2 full. I got a chimney red and dumped them in with some cherry chunks. I let it get going for 5 minutes then loaded the top rack with chicken drummettes. I got fire settled in and held 275 or so for 1.5 hours and removed chicken. I continued to experiment with temps and intake openings before closing her down completely shortly after the game started at 2. All in all I dumped chimney in the basket at around 1130. We ate around 110. And I experimented for maybe another hour running out and looking at temps vs intake openings. So 2.5 hours? Let’s just give it the benefit of the doubt and say 3 for the hell of it. I did check it an hour after closing her up and she had dropped from 275 to around 100-125 so it appears as if she was cooling off fast. I came home today to bring it in the garage for touch up paint and when I emptied it out I cannot believe there was hardly any charcoal left in the basket. This is like nothing I have seen on a drum before. My old stubby with a good sealing flat lid and 2” bung hole exhaust, a slightly smaller square vs round fire basket and this same diffuser, same intakes would run forever on very little lump. Any ideas? I am spontaneous but I am really thinking of going back to what I know and that’s flat lids with a good seal. Can anyone chime in? This sucks and is completely unacceptable.
 
You had a very small leak.
Takes time to get a good seal on a new lid.
 
You had a very small leak.
Takes time to get a good seal on a new lid.

I understand but could that really have been all it was? I was excited about using this set up but it’s out of my comfort zone because I’ve used flat lids for eight years And I know what I could get with one of them.
 
I'm sure I'm in the minority but I'm not a big fan of the weber lid for a uds. It does give you good room to add a second level- fact. It does not seal well (in before "mine does") and it is very skimpy on exhaust.

But I only cook on one grate. I like the 2.5" bung exhaust on a flat lid- it seals like it was made for it... because it WAS.

I've got a decent stainless steel drum that I had to modify a Weber Dome to fit...it seals well (finally) and I hate it.
 
Well....this is discouraging to hear from someone with experience using a drum. I'm currently in the process of building my first one and was going to go with the lid from a 22 1/2" kettle I have (not a Weber though). Based on the way it fits the drum I was planning on doing the inside lip mod with the aluminum flat and adding some rope gasket along with some additional exhaust. After reading your experience with it I'm afraid that I'm putting in a lot of extra work that's only going to end in disappointment. I may need to rethink sticking with the flat lid despite really wanting the extra room that comes with the kettle lid.
 
The advantage for me of using a done lid. Is you have the top cooking grate 3/4" to 1" down from the top lip of the drum. Like a weber.
Not a top grate 4" to 6" down inside the drum. Much easier to cook/manage food when only using one grate.
When cutting a drum. If the cut line is not flat/level. It could be very difficult to get a good seal. If at all.
I would not use a cutting/grinding wheel to cut a drum for a dome lid. That would take alot more effort to get a perfect flat line after being cut. Some use strips of aluminum foil on the edge of the cut drum to get a better seal.
Some cook with the dome lid and shutdown with their flat lids as they will still lay on/across the drum. For shut down.
I take the time to square up my cuts using 12" long flat files after using 15" sawsall blade. With the blade always touching 2 contact points to help keep it flat/straight. As a guide if that makes sense. Same with the flat file.
Also the line you scribe to cut, NOT using a marker, grease pencil or pencil. That scribed line has to be your DON"T cut below line. Or you will have all kinds of work to do to get the drum flat/level.
Remember, The dome lid is now only sitting on thin gauge steel edge/surface. The reason you would want the cut to be perfect.
 
Ebijack is right about the rack advantage. My lid was not perfect as in years past it blew off and hit the road on the way tailgating. But I straightened it and other than looking like crap all over one part of the dome I got it to where it sits flat and flush on my kettle bottom. I did cut my drum with a cutting wheel and careful measurements and a tape line around the drum. It was very sloppy regarding how the lid fit. If I slid the lid to one side the other side almost came off the inside. So I tack welded a piece of 3/32”x1/2” flat stock around the drum. I got it pretty close but did notice a slight high spot at one point which I “milled” down with my 60 grit sanding disc. The lid sits perfect on my Weber and pretty dang nice on my UDS. Not perfect for sure but nice. Bottom line as another person said the flat lid is made for the drum. I am up in the air. It’s possible other factors are at play in my case but I also stated I am out of my comfort zone on this one regarding making decisions. All I know is of the 5 UDS I have built for me and friends using flat lids and anything from slider door intakes to ball valves, both full size and cut down stubby, have been surprisingly efficient using the same drums on all of them ( open head with clamp on lid)
 
If wanting to stay with a flat lid, but want a top grate down 1" from the top edge of a drum.
Cut the drum 6" down from the top. Pop rivet, bolt, tack weld your piece of metal, aluminum flat stock. To the base drum. The flat lid will sit down over that ring. Now you have the same as a dome lid.
BUT...that flat lid with 6" tall sides, handle, gauge and exh is freakin heavy and not sure how you would hang that lid on anything easily. I set mine down, not easy to hang.
Dome lid is much easier to handle. But the pinwheel exh is useless for me.
 
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I have had nothing but great success with my drum and I am using a Weber bottom as my lid. I have gone as long as 20 or more hours on one load of lump. I am very happy with that set-up.
 
Well....this is discouraging to hear from someone with experience using a drum. I'm currently in the process of building my first one and was going to go with the lid from a 22 1/2" kettle I have (not a Weber though). Based on the way it fits the drum I was planning on doing the inside lip mod with the aluminum flat and adding some rope gasket along with some additional exhaust. After reading your experience with it I'm afraid that I'm putting in a lot of extra work that's only going to end in disappointment. I may need to rethink sticking with the flat lid despite really wanting the extra room that comes with the kettle lid.

Do not be discouraged!

I like the rope gasket idea.

Seal the lid with some aluminum foil for the first few cooks. After it gunks up, it will seal.
 
Seal the lid with some aluminum foil for the first few cooks. After it gunks up, it will seal.


This is exactly what I did with my UDS. Put foil completely around the lip and when it eventually fell off I just kept motoring on and haven't looked back. Holds temps like a dream now. Just took 3-4 cooks to get it going
 
This is exactly what I did with my UDS. Put foil completely around the lip and when it eventually fell off I just kept motoring on and haven't looked back. Holds temps like a dream now. Just took 3-4 cooks to get it going

Mine appeared to hold decent temps but I am just shocked at how much fuel I went through. Did yours eat up a hell of a lot of charcoal at first?
 
Mine appeared to hold decent temps but I am just shocked at how much fuel I went through. Did yours eat up a hell of a lot of charcoal at first?


I had more issues with temp control than fuel consumption, but I think that was more of the learning curve on working with a UDS. I think it might have been slightly higher consumption but nothing memorable. I read that you had smaller chunks of lump and whatever was left in your basket, do you think that situation combined with your air leak might have caused it? May just have to bite the bullet and smoke something else :thumb:
 
I had more issues with temp control than fuel consumption, but I think that was more of the learning curve on working with a UDS. I think it might have been slightly higher consumption but nothing memorable. I read that you had smaller chunks of lump and whatever was left in your basket, do you think that situation combined with your air leak might have caused it? May just have to bite the bullet and smoke something else :thumb:

I was hoping someone else would chime in about that cause I honestly don’t know. Does a whole/half basket of small chunks burn a lot faster than a whole/half basket of large chunks? Small chunks pack in tighter and I would think actually you would have more volume of charcoal per same size container. It’s similar to using a set amount of kosher salt in a rub but if you use table salt you use less cause it packs in the measuring spoon tighter with less air between granules or at least that’s what I have always read
 
Does a whole/half basket of small chunks burn a lot faster than a whole/half basket of large chunks?
As a fire maker since my young day, I say YES.

There are now a myriad of airflow avenues for the fire to

attack. With big logs, they could burn for days in a firepit.
 
Mine appeared to hold decent temps but I am just shocked at how much fuel I went through. Did yours eat up a hell of a lot of charcoal at first?

You have a small air leak. Yes even from the dome lid. The smallest air leak will allow a slowly smolder/burn till there is enough ash built up the coals can not get enough air to stay going.
 
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