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Ugly Drum Smoker

BC2001, my suggestion,,,, control the airflow and you will have heat control.

As I just suggested, you should be able to:
1. open things up and get way too much heat, and you should also be able to
2. shut off all airflow and put the fire out. If you can't put the fire out, you need to find out where the air leaks are. Look at intake first.

If you can do those 2 things, you can adjust to any temp that you want.

Do some experimenting with a burn without cooking. You need to find out how to create and control the swings both ways. One burn, a few beers, and you will figure it out.

Jerry
www.uglydrumsmoker.blogspot.com
 
ok thanks i think the possible leaks are in the lid where the hinges were there are now holes. so i should get those covered some how ( any suggestions no welding ) and i put a rope gasket inside the ring to get a better fit i think it will work first real cook will be tuesday maybe tomorrow experiment a little.
 
I just put a short bolt and nut thru the holes. Sealed them up very well.

I have been wrong many, many times, but I think your problem will be with controling draft. My lid does not seal at all, and I have no problems.

Looking at your pictures with the "stack" it looks to me like you will be getting an excellent draw up thru that pipe. If I am right, you need to be able to control the bottom end on the intake side.

Jerry
www.uglydrumsmoker.blogspot.com
 
SDJ said:
I took the fire basket out and used a blow torch in 3 places for about 1 minute each then left it for 10 minutes, it didnt feel like it was throwing out that much heat but when I put the fire basket in the UDS and put the thermometer in it stayed on 270F for some time.

I noticed that every time I take the lid off the temp spikes dramtically and this is with all venys closed, perhaps the slightly smaller Aussie drums (44 gallon) has something to do with it :?:
Click to expand...

Norcoredneck said:
I usually only get 5-6 coals going, 2 vents open when temp climbs i cap one and use valve to throttle. Most cooks with large load I have 1 cap off and maybe 1/4 valve open. Air leaks are bad, removing the lid to look is worse. Close it up, open a beer and adjust only 1/2 hour. After temp settles in leave alone. Temp might drop after 4-6 hours. if it does shake/kick drum to knock ash loose and wait before adjustments.
Click to expand...

Here is a pic of what I started tonight
IMG_0029.jpg
 
hey another question ok im going to put a chimney full of unlit charcoal in the charcoal basket and then throw about 6 lit coals on top of those now do you wait for it to get up to temp ( 225 -250 ) then put meat on or do you put the meat on right away? thanks
 
I load mine up with 10 lbs or so, use weed burner to light it like pic. Close lid. I have 1 cap off and 1/2 valve. When it hits 220 I put cap on and open valve. I throttle back if needed. I cook at 200-210 on gauge which is about 230 center grate.
 
Norcoredneck said:
I load mine up with 10 lbs or so, use weed burner to light it like pic. Close lid. I have 1 cap off and 1/2 valve. When it hits 220 I put cap on and open valve. I throttle back if needed. I cook at 200-210 on gauge which is about 230 center grate.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your helpful advice Nocoredneck, I lit my fire the way you suggested and had no problems. I cooked 2 x highway chickens last night and temp was steady at 220F with 2 vents closed and the third one open 1/4, later I opened up the vent to 1/2 and the temp climbed to 245F and stayed there.
Might make a BBQ cook out of me yet :biggrin:
 
Norcoredneck said:
I load mine up with 10 lbs or so, use weed burner to light it like pic. Close lid. I have 1 cap off and 1/2 valve. When it hits 220 I put cap on and open valve. I throttle back if needed. I cook at 200-210 on gauge which is about 230 center grate.
Click to expand...

when do you add wood or do you just spread it through out the charcoal?
 
Hi all. Long time no post. For my purposes I just stand a stick (1/4 cut around 1 foot long) up in amongst the charcoal. It only burns where the coals are hot. I started this since I didn't want to chunk up my wood. I just use it the way I buy it now.

Dovid
Chicago
 
So why are people still adding four intakes?
 
Dr_KY said:
So why are people still adding four intakes?
Click to expand...
They are either trying to stimulate the economy with making excessive purchases, or they are trying to make the UDS that is capable of a budget cremation service.

I'd try it on the neighbors 2 cats that keep wiz'n near my shop intake vent making it reek like litter box. I do like cats. I just cant eat a whole one myself.
 
bacardi2001 said:
when do you add wood or do you just spread it through out the charcoal?
Click to expand...
Once i get the temp dialed I lift lid, put wood on usually 1 chunk in center, 2-3 around perimiter. I put grate back on, lid temp climbs and I go in and get meat. I lift lid and put meat on. Temp climb is ok it offsets meat load.
 
Dr Ky, I still use 4 intakes and building my 4th for home use and will use 4 intakes. Just me, but I like the extremely even burns I get from the firebox. It is really even all the way around and seems to burn a minimum amount of fuel. Could just be my imagination, but it works and I like it. Obviously, there are several ways that work just great. And, Smoken Turkey, I want to keep all options open. LOL
 
Here are some random pics I took tonight ,starting on my first build.
There are a couple of the drum deheader,deheader cutband,the cooking grate I am building,some of the burn out and one of the thermometer I use to check the head temp. on my nitro R/C cars,will it work for the drum temp readings ?i only have enough $ right now to buy one meat thermometer and I would like it to be a wireless one if there is a good accurate one for around $35.
I will keep you guys posted on the build.

deheaderclose.jpg




deheadercutband.jpg


stencilforgrate.jpg


stencilforgrate2.jpg


Beginningburnout.jpg

burningofflid.jpg


burnoutwithsparks.jpg


gotcoals.jpg


lettingoffsomesmoke.jpg


thermometerreading.jpg
 
Gotta watch getting lid hot it will warp and not seal. Nice deheader. Trade you for a thermometer. :twisted:
 
Got a question. The first one I built came from a company that reconditions the drums and then sells them for $27. The inside was bare metal. I picked up 3 yesterday that were used to ship apricot puree for $8 each. The inside of each one has an orange coating just like the one pictured above. What is this stuff? Paint?
 
Should be a coating to keep the contents from reacting with the metal of the drum also known as a liner. Just burn it out.
 
I wa kinda wondering the same thing.The barrel above was used to hold sealant which is in a bag inside the drum.So, this is basically a brand new barrel as nothing has touched the sides of it. I think it is what they call and "innerpack" barrel and is EPA legal to haul stuff in, as in whatever you may desire.
I did the burn last night and I am going to empty it today and see how hard the stuff comes off after it is burned.
Norcor, I didn't leave the lid on all the time during the burn. I don't think I could take a thermo for the deheader.It is to much of a useful tool around the shop,whether it be for trash barrels,trash burn barrels or possibly future UDS builds. But, anyone in the area sure can use it if they want to come over.
Raz
 
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