How many of you Brethren use your compound miter saw to cut down splits?

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If you could find a pipe vice like the ones at the links above that would solve your question of how to hold the wood in place as you cut. The largest capacity I have found is 8" but very expensive if bought new. Down in the oil patch, I would think you could find them cheaper at pawn shops. And if you do find a bunch of them, I'd be interested in one.


Thanks,


Robert
 
Lynn Dollar said:
I have a $40 Harbor Freight corded electric chain saw. When I try to cut small diameter splits with it, the splits roll.


Do the splits roll with this B&D Lopper ?



How do you support the splits when you cut them ?
Click to expand...

They do not roll...the lopper saw has "teeth" which hold the split in place while you're cutting it. Over the years I've tried various methods to cut splits including a chain saw, and the chain saw was never very viable because the splits would roll or rattle. The teeth on that lopper saw holds the split in place very firmly. For $80 it's really a pretty nifty piece of equipment. I'm going to cut the rest of my wood this morning and I'll take a couple pics of the different sized splits and show what this thing can do.
 
Lynn Dollar said:
I have a $40 Harbor Freight corded electric chain saw. When I try to cut small diameter splits with it, the splits roll.


Do the splits roll with this B&D Lopper ?



How do you support the splits when you cut them ?
Click to expand...

The jaws of the device hold the splits for you and the splits won't roll. It does have a max size it will handle so sometimes I've had to split the log and then cut it in half.
 
So I only had about 1/8 of a cord of pecan, but it took me roughly 20 minutes to cut it all down to a better length for my smoker. I took a couple pics and have a measuring tape in there just to show the sizes of the splits I'm cutting. I'm still very impressed with this little saw and I think it'll definitely be my go-to tool for cutting splits in the future. Mind you I'm cutting these down to length and then using my Kindling Cracker to split these down even smaller.

https://imgur.com/a/rQ4MVUH
 
Well, that does it. I'm gonna order one today.


I bought the battery powered unit, tool only. I have four B&D 20V batteries .


And I found it at Lowes for $84 , tool only.
 
Last edited:
Anyone who has made a homemade X shaped sawbuck have any rattle or roll of the logs when using a chain saw?
 
Double nut, Lock tite, peen em- or tack them with a stick welder.

let them come loose then :-D
 
bbq ron said:
i use a kinding cracker from northern tool and you can buy on amazon
Click to expand...
I do too. But I need to cut them the other direction because they're too long.

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I´ve been using a miter saw and even a movable one is not ideal, still kick backs on occasion. I have tried a recipro saw but that didn´t really work because the saw buck I was using was not sturdy enough.

Recently, I got to use a Stihl metal saw buck from a neighbour and that was really stable. So I´m picking one up and I just ordered a cordless B&D chainsaw. That should do the trick.

universalchain-18-45687-hires-png-rgb-oneux-263494_w_750_h_421.png


img.jpg
 
Short of a bucksaw and buckhorse I think a miter/chop saw is very safe if used properly. You need to have the log fully supported on the side of the blade that is doing the holding and the other side free from both bed and fence.

I am right handed so I hold the work piece to the bed and fence left of the blade. I will use some scrap wood as needed on the left bed and fence to keep the right side of the piece clear of both. This way there is nothing to cause a blade bind situation.

Bandsawing round objects freehand is a lot less safe. -- Stumpy
 
I think I'll add a chain to my sawbuck, that may very well keep the small splits from rolling. Looks like that chain has a spring on one end, but does it use a clevis hook ?


If I were going to build a sawbuck again, I would make it higher. I have to bend at the waist to cut splits and after a while it wears on the lower back.


Speaking of kindling crackers and working height .......... I have mine mounted on a stump. But the stump is 3 years old and its beginning to get well seasoned. After a bit of use, the lag bolts loosen. I'm probably headed back to the woodlot to buy another stump. But is there another way ?
 
I do woodworking for a living. I cannot stress it enough that using a table saw or miter saw is absolutely dangerous and should not be done. They are built to be used with flat surfaces. When cutting curved or irregular sitting surfaces, it is only a matter of time before you will experience kickback or worse, the saw catching the wood and sending your hand into the blade. The $80 B&D alligator saw may not be the fastest but it will more than make up for the cost of a trip to the emergency room or loss of fingers.
 
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