Ugly Drum Smoker

jdub said:
If you can't find it here, it can't be found! I've built two, here is what I have learned:
The first got a Weber kettle lid. When I cut the top of the drum to accept the lid, I was never able to get a cut plum enough to make a good seal ( I am not sure if it is the drum that is not cut perfectly or the lid itself is out of plum). This drum has 4 1 inch tubes welded in as vents. 1 has a ball valve, and 1 has a mount for a guru.
This drum is fairly jumpy in the temp department, and I am sure it is the seal of the lid-I can put the lid on one way, and the temp drops. Another way and temp goes up. Add the variability of the ball valve and I have a unit that requires a decent bit of babysitting. It is a bit more stable at higher temps, so chicken and the like do better on this one than say pork butt.


I am using a webber top and a guru (10 cfm) no other vents, built up side down with good results after I sealed the air leaks on the bottom.

I wonder if you where leaking air on the bottom?
Click to expand...
 
I had to cut the top off my drum as well so the lid is an iffy fit. Thats more about my cutting skills with an angle grinder than anything. I cam get a decent seal with a little tweaking and I managed 17+ hours at a steady temp. I might consider building a lip out of magnetic tap to better seal the lid.
 
Where to drill the rack holes?

I know I should drill at 1 3/4"below the top and then at 8" but how do I square them so they are evenly spaces apart? Drum from edge to edge is 22 3/4" If I put a rope around the hole thing its 70" total. Is there some math equation that I need to figure it out sot the holes are square to each other?
 
The way I do it is find the seam that runs up the drum, make a mark 18" on both sides of the seam (near the bottom), this will give you your side hole marks.
Measure 18" from the marks you just made, yes you will find out that they will over lap.
Now split the difference between the over lapping marks and that is the center or your front hole location.
No what I do is measure 2" from the bottom lip of the barrel and pop my intake holes.
 
ON THE FARM said:
The way I do it is find the seam that runs up the drum, make a mark 18" on both sides of the seam (near the bottom), this will give you your side hole marks.
Measure 18" from the marks you just made, yes you will find out that they will over lap.
Now split the difference between the over lapping marks and that is the center or your front hole location.
No what I do is measure 2" from the bottom lip of the barrel and pop my intake holes.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you are referring to 4 intake holes...right? How about the small ones for the racks? Do the same thing?
 
Hey JDub, you don't have to cut the lip off, just build your own lid. Sounds like you weld, so just use a donor drum. I have done two. They both have good fits. The tall one has round bar welded to the cut off donor lid then flat bar welded around it for a lip. The short one was the second one I did for my UDG and I used a donor lid, cut the center out and welded it to the 6" top from a donor drum. So it is just like a normal lid in the way it fits on the UDG. It also works on the UDS of course.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
garyk1398 said:
Sounds like you are referring to 4 intake holes...right? How about the small ones for the racks? Do the same thing?
Click to expand...

No, this is the lay out I use for 3 holes; I don’t put a hole in the seam.
For the racks it’s basically the same, just measure 1 foot from the seam each way then one directly over the front hole.
 
I don't think I would use a drum that had contained motor oil.
I would search more for a drum that held food grade product or buy a new one.
It is just not worth the chance, IMHO.
 
Well, I' ve just read through all 100 pages. Awesome thread. Anyone here from the upstate of SC? I'm having trouble finding a food grade drum. Thanks

Chris
 
An easy way to find the right drum

Go to a scrap metal yard. They may or may not have a suitable drum-probably won't.
BUT-the guys there know where EVERY pile of used drums in your town is and what was in them and who put them there.
Worked for me!
 
To echo everyone else, this is an awesome thread with lots of great info. I'm looking for a drum now so I can build my own. Thanks!:-D

Mike
 
I did my first cook, an over night at that and I was estatic. 18 hours and it was still holding steady at 225. I would have kept going but I ran out of meat to cook. All day I kept telling my wife "Did I mention how much I like my new BBQ?" or "Did I mention how well my UDS worked?". She just rolls her eyes.
 
ComputerMike, know the feeling...just about finished with my drum and my asked me what is that thing in the back yard....when I told her it was a smoker I'm building....she said you already have to many smokers/grills, why do you need another one????? Can you really have too many???? I say not!!!
 
ComputerMike said:
I did my first cook, an over night at that and I was estatic. 18 hours and it was still holding steady at 225. I would have kept going but I ran out of meat to cook. All day I kept telling my wife "Did I mention how much I like my new BBQ?" or "Did I mention how well my UDS worked?". She just rolls her eyes.
Click to expand...
Mike- my wife thought I lost it when I put a winter coat on my barrel and then took pictures. She wasn't sure but she thought it might be better if I was taking pictures of women!! The barrel wrap is on this thread.
 
I'm just finished burnin my drum and had another question for the pros. Before I sand/grind out the inside do I rinse out the black, scorched stuff first, then grind away? After grinding do ya rinse or just start seasoning it with crisco?
 
I take mine to the car wash and blast as much out of it as i can, then use the garden hose after the wire wheel.
when its good and clean then season.
 
Hi this is the best thread i've ever read and thanks for all the info and now to my question . If i can get a stainless steel barrel for 75 to 100 dollars is that a good deal ? or should i just get a regular barrel ? thanks for your help.

Mike
 
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