Getting Ready To Finish My UDS - A Few Questions Regarding Paint & Finish

Moose · Mar 11, 2009

I've pretty much read the entire LONG Thread, as well as Norco's. I have a great charcoal basket etc, all parts, so now it really comes down to getting it painted. After a good burnout, I wire brushed the drum, then used high heat BBQ paint as primer as prep for the final paint job and to keep it from rusting. Not so sure I should have done this, as the paint seems to not be sticking at all. I think I need to do a lot more wire brushing or use something else as primer, or BOTH.

So my questions are:

When you wire brush the outside of the drum, does it need to show bare metal 100%? After my first go around, I had all the rust and remaining paint off, and thought this would be more than adequate to create a "sticky" surface for the paint to adhere to. Apparently not!

What kind of paint should I use, and should I use primer? I plan on using a glossy red as my paint, so does that need to be high heat resistant engine paint, or can I use plain automotive paint?

Feedback will be greatly appreciated, and thanks to all the pioneers on this board who inspired me to get myself into this mess!

Norcoredneck · Mar 11, 2009

Scuff it up and use Engine paint. Regular paint is ok and will work but engine paint is better for when your in awe of the goods and leave the lid off longer than you should.

Weiser · Mar 12, 2009

Moose, I started on the outside of my new drum yesterday with the intention
of taking it down to bare metal. I dunno what they used for paint and primer but it was very hard!
After 30 minutes I had made almost no progress.
Switched to Plan B, no sense in creating extra work so I just scuffed the existing paint with 60 grit and then 180 grit.
Made for a pretty nice surface with good tooth for the paint.

Norco is correct, use engine paint, it is only good for 500* but that should be fine.
I decided to go with your basic Krylon primer and paint just to see if that is good enough.
I think it will work and if it doesn't, I'll wish that I had taken Pat's advice.:mrgreen:

Weiser
PS: Mine is also going to be Red.

Moose said:
So my questions are:

When you wire brush the outside of the drum, does it need to show bare metal 100%? After my first go around, I had all the rust and remaining paint off, and thought this would be more than adequate to create a "sticky" surface for the paint to adhere to. Apparently not!

What kind of paint should I use, and should I use primer? I plan on using a glossy red as my paint, so does that need to be high heat resistant engine paint, or can I use plain automotive paint?

Feedback will be greatly appreciated, and thanks to all the pioneers on this board who inspired me to get myself into this mess!

1130home · Mar 12, 2009

I never primed mine just engine paint, i also went down to bare metal.

h20loo · Mar 12, 2009

Your problem may be related to what was in and where the barrel has been. You need to use a "body shop wash" to remove any grease or silicone that you are trying to paint over. If you had a clean surface the paint would stick.

Desert Dweller · Mar 12, 2009

h20loo said:
Your problem may be related to what was in and where the barrel has been. You need to use a "body shop wash" to remove any grease or silicone that you are trying to paint over. If you had a clean surface the paint would stick.

Also, did you make sure there was no sanding dust left on the to be painted surface???

Weiser · Mar 12, 2009

"Your problem may be related to what was in and where the barrel has been. You need to use a "body shop wash"
to remove any grease or silicone that you are trying to paint over. If you had a clean surface the paint would stick."

Good point. I wipe the surface with either Prep-Solv or Lacquer Thinner
before applying any paint. There is a good amount of oil in your fingure tips too which will cause problems.

Desert Dweller said:
Also, did you make sure there was no sanding dust left on the to be painted surface???

Yep, it has to be clean!

Weiser

Mark · Mar 12, 2009

For the record; I used "high temp" engine spray paint for my biohazard logo and managed to burn it. Not that I give a $hit. Just give it some more character.

jaronimo · Mar 12, 2009

I used regular Krylon, not the high heat type and mine is fine. But like Norco said I have never left the lid off (yet) and had the temp spike on me. If you want the extra heat insurance go with engine paint. I didn't because I did not see the color I wanted in engine paint, so I will have to be careful. Probably just jinxed myself now.

I don't think I would use primer, unless you can find a high heat primer. I don't know what temp rattlecan primers are rated up to, but I would assume it is the same as regular paint. If you clean and scuff the drum properly there really is no need for primer. But thats just my opinion and I could be wrong.

I have used regular Krylon paint on engine blocks and it holds up very well. Water-cooled V-8s do not get very hot in paint terms. Yes, they are too hot to touch, but if your cooling system is working fine they should never get hot hot enough to burn your paint.

Weiser · Mar 13, 2009

That was pretty much my frame of reference too.
Regular old Krylon works well on blocks and intakes.
The engine paint and primer are rated at 500*
I don't ever plan on letting the UDS go above 375*
Lawn furniture down here gets hotter than that in the Summer. :mrgreen:

Weiser

jaronimo said:
I have used regular Krylon paint on engine blocks and it holds up very well. Water-cooled V-8s do not get very hot in paint terms. Yes, they are too hot to touch, but if your cooling system is working fine they should never get hot hot enough to burn your paint.

Barbarian · Mar 13, 2009

I did not plan on letting mine get above 375 either, but sh*t happens!!!
The high temp. bbq paint base held up fine, but the red top coat did not.

jaronimo · Mar 13, 2009

Weiser said:
I don't ever plan on letting the UDS go above 375*
Lawn furniture down here gets hotter than that in the Summer. :mrgreen:

Weiser

Nice. And remind me, how long is summer in Texas? 9 months?

ComputerMike · Mar 13, 2009

I used high temp enamel (600F). I burned the paint off the outside and the touched it up a bit with a sander. I cleaned the surface with a rag soaked with paint thinner (as a degreaser and tack rag) before spraying on two light coats.

Panther5150 · Mar 13, 2009

Left mine with the original black. Hasn't burned or rusted, yet.

Dr_KY · Mar 13, 2009

My mini is original black and the UDS recieven no sanding after the burm, just a wipe down with a ditry rag, some primer and black paint. No problems so far even the vinal sticker is holding strong.

Weiser · Mar 13, 2009

It seems to be all of that!:lol:
Wouldn't trade it for nuthin' !!!

Weiser

jaronimo said:
Nice. And remind me, how long is summer in Texas? 9 months?

Getting Ready To Finish My UDS - A Few Questions Regarding Paint & Finish

Moose

somebody shut me the fark up.

Norcoredneck

somebody shut me the fark up.

Weiser

Guest

1130home

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h20loo

is one Smokin' Farker

Desert Dweller

Babbling Farker

Weiser

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Mark

somebody shut me the fark up.

jaronimo

Full Fledged Farker

Weiser

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Barbarian

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jaronimo

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ComputerMike

Take a breath!

Panther5150

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Dr_KY

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Weiser

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