Ugly Drum Smoker

Smoke-eater:

If the inside rusts, it's proof of nothing but pure plain steel; thus safe.

I think I am gonna go ahead and build one up and see how she does...as many of you using these, and from the pics, they must work pretty well!

so I have read this entire thing and I have a question that may or may not have been covered.

There seems to be some difference of opinion on what to use as far as lump vs. briquettes. Can you use lump and get a long burn? Or is a mixture better? What about flavor of the meat from igniting the non lump?

My charcoal basket is 16" in diameter and 8.5" tall.

I'm still a green horn and still learning on my UDS so I can only speak from my experience over the last few weeks. I have tried mixing lump and Kingsford briquettes and I have used briquettes only.

The mix lights faster, seems to burn a little hotter but also had me tinkering with the ball valve more to handle temperature fluctuations. Take off the lid and she really gets going and is hard to get the temperature back down.

Plain charcoal on the other hand is a little tougher to light but burns longer and steadier, seems to hold the set temperature better for me. This is what I use for all my cooks now.

As far as taste, hell everything seems to be good off the UDS if cooked right.

I have also found that if I need to do much work under the lid, wrap in foil or turn meat, that if I take lift the grate out with the meat and put the lid back on to keep air from getting to my fire, do what I have to do, then put the meat back in, it keeps flare ups or heat spikes down to a minimum. In other words, keep the lid on as much as possible.

Just my 2¢ worth. Hope it helps.

David

dgassaway said:

I'm still a green horn and still learning on my UDS so I can only speak from my experience over the last few weeks. I have tried mixing lump and Kingsford briquettes and I have used briquettes only.

The mix lights faster, seems to burn a little hotter but also had me tinkering with the ball valve more to handle temperature fluctuations. Take off the lid and she really gets going and is hard to get the temperature back down.

Plain charcoal on the other hand is a little tougher to light but burns longer and steadier, seems to hold the set temperature better for me. This is what I use for all my cooks now.

As far as taste, hell everything seems to be good off the UDS if cooked right.

I have also found that if I need to do much work under the lid, wrap in foil or turn meat, that if I take lift the grate out with the meat and put the lid back on to keep air from getting to my fire, do what I have to do, then put the meat back in, it keeps flare ups or heat spikes down to a minimum. In other words, keep the lid on as much as possible.

Just my 2¢ worth. Hope it helps.

David

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Thanks for that info. So you have noticed no odd taste from the briquettes? What type are you using?

StayDown said:

Thanks for that info. So you have noticed no odd taste from the briquettes? What type are you using?

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I have mostly cooked fattys and butts on it and I can't tell any difference. Some guys might but it's all the same to me. Mmmm...Good!

I've been using the Kingsford. HD had it 2 for $8.97 last weekend.

David

[quote

There seems to be some difference of opinion on what to use as far as lump vs. briquettes. Can you use lump and get a long burn? Or is a mixture better? What about flavor of the meat from igniting the non lump?

My charcoal basket is 16" in diameter and 8.5" tall.[/quote]

My basket is 13" dia. x 12" tall. Never filled to the top though.
I use just lump and smoke wood in all of my cookers. I don't like the smell or the taste produced by the briquettes lighting off. I will use briquettes for grilling or even starting off the smokers, but no meat of mine is near an unlit briquette.

Now you've gone and done it. Gonna make me put away my new toy I got for my birthday. I received a Char Griller Duo this spring to replace an old old gas grill that I could no longer get parts for. It had a SFB, so we tried using it since it was there anyway. WOW!! Had never given it a thought until then. My first couple smokes hooked me HARD!! It's a whole new taste sensation for our family. BBQ with the flavor in the meat istead of having to drown stuff in sauce. I'm having trouble holding temps in the CG, and I'm tired of babysitting it, I started researching solutions. I kept running across references on different sites to these UDS things...

You've got me convinced that this is the way to go for "set it and forget it" smoking. At least in comparison to the messing about I'm having to do with the CG. The CG will stay for direct cooks and maybe more playing with it trying to get it to hold a temp properly. The build quality on it is horrendous. Chineze standards all the way through.

I've been trying to find a near-freebie barrel the last few weeks, to no avail. I know I've seen them in the past out behind automotive shops and in the industrial sections of town. I've been up and down alleys all over town trying to find one. Steel drums don't seem to be a dime-a-dozen like they used to be (too many places switching to plastic drums). I did some calling around today and found a couple used drums for 15 bucks--the UN-rated heavy metal units. Supposed to be good and sound, just not pretty.

I was wanting to do this as cheap as possible, but it looks like I'm going to have to buy the grates. I figure magnets to cover the intakes--there's a gazillion on the fridge. I can probably scrounge some expanded metal at the in-laws next weekend for the firebox. Or I can use the one I made for the CG. Is 12 X 12 X6 big enough to do me any good in a UDS? I can add bolts to the bottom to raise it up.

One thing I have not seen come up on this thread (and yes, I've read it all) is directing the air flow through the firebox. On the SFB, I concocted a baffle that blocked air from going around the charcoal basket. This would seem like a good idea on a UDS, but nobody has mentioned it. I'm thinking fold-down flaps on the charcaol box that would conform to the inside contour of the drum. After you put the firebox in place, you would just knock the flaps down, creating a barrier, forcing all air to go through the fire. It should allow you to create a hotter fire with less fuel. meaning that the charcoal should last even longer at the lower temps we smoke at. Or is the air flowing around the firebox needed to create that "convection" effect you guys mention frequently? It might also make it easier to clean the bottom out. You would be bringing the bottom up with you everytime you took the charcoal box out. Any thoughts? Seems logical to me, but what do I know? I'm new at this.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. The info here is terrific. Even the info that isn't always in agreement. Most folks here seem to be pretty laid-back and not overly dogmatic that something has to be done "THIS way, and ONLY this way"

I'll post pics as I get into the build.

I have a SS 55gal drum and I really do not want to attempt to remove the top w/ a saws-all and cutting wheel.
So do any of you know what types of companies use these Barrel-deheaders?

MattCom said:

I have a SS 55gal drum and I really do not want to attempt to remove the top w/ a saws-all and cutting wheel.
So do any of you know what types of companies use these Barrel-deheaders?

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Lotsa stuff on "deheader" Just use the search function

otis said:

me any good in a UDS? I can add bolts to the bottom to raise it up.

One thing I have not seen come up on this thread (and yes, I've read it all) is directing the air flow through the firebox. On the SFB, I concocted a baffle that blocked air from going around the charcoal basket. This would seem like a good idea on a UDS, but nobody has mentioned it. I'm thinking fold-down flaps on the charcaol box that would conform to the inside contour of the drum. After you put the firebox in place, you would just knock the flaps down, creating a barrier, forcing all air to go through the fire. It should allow you to create a hotter fire with less fuel. meaning that the charcoal should last even longer at the lower temps we smoke at. Or is the air flowing around the firebox needed to create that "convection" effect you guys mention frequently? It might also make it easier to clean the bottom out. You would be bringing the bottom up with you everytime you took the charcoal box out. Any thoughts? Seems logical to me, but what do I know? I'm new at this.

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Sorta like a putting cup?

Cup like that catching 4 butts of grease, might be quite the nmess after a few cooks. You got a fire/heat at the bottom of a tube, where else can it go but up? remember what ever you put down in there has to clear the grate supports on the way up.

SS Drum Build

One SS drum 95% complete, pics to follow. One question, for the inaugural cherry busting should I spray with Pam or just go ahead and throw a well rubbed Pork Butt on? I am on the fence on this because I really am having difficulty with the idea of just burning lump and some wood and not having any meat on the grill, it just seems so wasteful.

Just spray it down, fire it up and put some meat on it. Fattys seem to be the favorite inaugural sacrifice. Once the meat is done ramp up the heat for a while and then shut it down. You will feel good at not just cooking air and you will have drum with the beginnings of a life time of seasoning. Happy cooking.

question from a newb

I have been reading this thread for at least a hour a day for over a week, and I so want to build one of these! My problem is I can't find a food-grade barrel, no one in this area sells new barrels, and to buy a new barrel, or even a used one, from out-of-state adds about 50 bucks to the price.
I have a few potential leads on barrels that have contained motor oil, hydraulic fluid, and gear grease - would any of these be safe to use [after a burn-out, of course]?

Keep reading, opinions vary.:biggrin:

hondad said:

I have been reading this thread for at least a hour a day for over a week, and I so want to build one of these! My problem is I can't find a food-grade barrel, no one in this area sells new barrels, and to buy a new barrel, or even a used one, from out-of-state adds about 50 bucks to the price.
I have a few potential leads on barrels that have contained motor oil, hydraulic fluid, and gear grease - would any of these be safe to use [after a burn-out, of course]?

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I suggest putting an ad on craigs list or your local freecycle.

I tried the Craig's List ad last week - got about seven replies, most from folks that had barrels with oil, hydraulic fluid, truck bed liner - only one guy had two barrels that were food grade 9 { a board member, btw} but he wasn't really interested in selling. Looks like I might end up with one very expensive UDS, because it is looking like I will have to have one shipped to me.

Actually hondad, an unlined barrel that contained motor oil, is safer than a lined barrel that you have to burn out. Just clean it out with some strong detergent and see if it starts to rust. If it does, you're good to go.

Mark said:

Actually hondad, an unlined barrel that contained motor oil, is safer than a lined barrel that you have to burn out. Just clean it out with some strong detergent and see if it starts to rust. If it does, you're good to go.

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Tide powder with warm water cuts oil residue real well.