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-   -   Ugly Drum Smoker (https://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23436)

otterpop 02-11-2011 05:13 PM

nice patina!
:wink:

jdbh 02-13-2011 02:59 PM

i COOKED LAST NIGHT ON MU UDS AND I THOUGHT I SHUT IT DOWN. I WENT OUTSIDE TO GO TO THE STORE TODAY AND REALIZED ITS STILL AT 220, 22HRS AFTER I INTIAL STARTED YESTERDAY THATS CRAZY AND THERE WASNT BUT MAYBE 8 LBS OF LUMP IN IT WHEN I STARTED . I USUALLY JUST SHUT IT DOWN AND SAVE WHATS LEFT. THATS CRAZY I NEVER THOUGHT IT WOULD LAST THAT LONG ON THAT LITTLE AMOUNT.

NCSU-Q 02-16-2011 08:27 AM

I realize that this is an issue that has been addressed previously, but has anyone found a quick/easy way to get the epoxy liner out of a lined drum? Are there any solvents/strippers that will work?

colonel00 02-16-2011 09:25 AM

Quickest/easiest way is to have it sandblasted. Call around and you can probably find a shop to do it relatively cheap. As it appears you are in the Charlotte area, you should be able to call several area shops. Also, it might even be cheaper to just call around and buy an unlined drum. Here in the KC area there are a couple places that sell unlined drums for under $30.

1FUNVET 02-16-2011 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NCSU-Q (Post 1551012)
I realize that this is an issue that has been addressed previously, but has anyone found a quick/easy way to get the epoxy liner out of a lined drum? Are there any solvents/strippers that will work?


Lotta elbow grease and beer. :thumb:

IDODSICK 02-16-2011 04:53 PM

after 5 cooks ive noticed a weird temp spike after two hours. ive done a butt, two pork
loins, fattie, and a chuck roast. they all shared the same spike around two hours. it only went up to about 280 and i was able to dial it back down. is this from the meat starting to render fat? anyone else experienced this? is this just the way my drum is going to cook?

Sammy_Shuford 02-16-2011 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IDODSICK (Post 1551522)
after 5 cooks ive noticed a weird temp spike after two hours. ive done a butt, two pork
loins, fattie, and a chuck roast. they all shared the same spike around two hours. it only went up to about 280 and i was able to dial it back down. is this from the meat starting to render fat? anyone else experienced this? is this just the way my drum is going to cook?

Are peeking just before the spike?

El Ropo 02-16-2011 06:27 PM

Woah! I have that same exact spatula!

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/at...1&d=1297124088

jdbh 02-16-2011 07:20 PM

that is a true ugly drum looks great though

stglide 02-16-2011 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NCSU-Q (Post 1551012)
I realize that this is an issue that has been addressed previously, but has anyone found a quick/easy way to get the epoxy liner out of a lined drum? Are there any solvents/strippers that will work?

Quote:

Originally Posted by colonel00 (Post 1551055)
As it appears you are in the Charlotte area, you should be able to call several area shops. Also, it might even be cheaper to just call around and buy an unlined drum. .

NCSU, there is General Steel Drum Corp in Charlotte. 4500 South Boulevard

Also, Charlotte Steel Drum on 2900 W Trade St.

May want to give them a call or check them out.... New and reconditioned.

stglide 02-16-2011 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1FUNVET (Post 1551078)
Lotta elbow grease and beer. :thumb:

And HEAVY on the Beer!!! :becky:

IDODSICK 02-16-2011 09:11 PM

Nope. I run an et-73 and a weber wireless. I trust my gadgets to tell me whats goin on. Im not new to BBQ, just drums. Its more of a climb than spike. Consistantly around the 2 hr mark though. Im guessing i will need to throtlle down at that point on every cook. It dies in twenty minutes when i close all vents so im not suspecting leaks. Doing a 7 lb butt in the morning. Im going to take 20 min temp notes, maybe let it ride the high to see what happens. R&D.

smokeyw 02-17-2011 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IDODSICK (Post 1551522)
after 5 cooks ive noticed a weird temp spike after two hours. ive done a butt, two pork
loins, fattie, and a chuck roast. they all shared the same spike around two hours. it only went up to about 280 and i was able to dial it back down. is this from the meat starting to render fat? anyone else experienced this? is this just the way my drum is going to cook?

I have just done my 3rd cook on my UDS. It does seem to be a little finicky in the first few hours and it does seem the temperature rises some at about 2 hours. I think it is probably just part of getting it stabilized. I have also experienced a drop in temperature at 6 to 8 hours when cooking a lot of meat (3 butts). I think this is due to moisture and grease smothering the coals some. After adjusting the air intake it was rock solid for the remainder of the time. When finished there was a lot of moisture in the bottom. All in all I am impressed and very pleased with the UDS. It does a great job.

Skidder 02-17-2011 07:49 AM

smokeyw can you explain your build maybe then someone can help answer your question.

N8man 02-17-2011 07:51 AM

Man!!! Gotta Get Me A Drum Smoker!!!:thumb:

bover 02-17-2011 07:52 AM

Working on building my first UDS right now. The drums I've got have removable locking lids, and the lids themselves have a ~2" bung and 1/2" air vent both with screw-in caps. In y'alls vast experience do you think just removing these caps during the cook would be enough ventilation for the smoke or should I drill some more holes? Right now I'm thinking that the bung alone would provide about as much flow as the vent on a Weber lid so no additional modifications would be necessary, but would appreciate insight from you guys.

Thanks.

Downtown Smokeout 02-17-2011 07:56 AM

You didn't read the whole thread.....cheater. I use the same lid, works fine with the large bung removed, I actually use a fridge magnet to close it off partially at certain points during my cooks.

1FUNVET 02-17-2011 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bover (Post 1551989)
Working on building my first UDS right now. The drums I've got have removable locking lids, and the lids themselves have a ~2" bung and 1/2" air vent both with screw-in caps. In y'alls vast experience do you think just removing these caps during the cook would be enough ventilation for the smoke or should I drill some more holes? Right now I'm thinking that the bung alone would provide about as much flow as the vent on a Weber lid so no additional modifications would be necessary, but would appreciate insight from you guys.

Thanks.

I have a 6" long piece of PVC screwed into the 2" bung and it works fine. No need to drill any additional holes.

bover 02-17-2011 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downtown Smokeout (Post 1551992)
You didn't read the whole thread.....cheater. I use the same lid, works fine with the large bung removed, I actually use a fridge magnet to close it off partially at certain points during my cooks.

Busted! I've read around 350 of the 500+ pages, but couldn't recall seeing this question. Then again, I'm having a tough time remembering what I had for breakfast this morning.

btw...I have seen reference to the magnet idea and am planning on going that route for the intakes at the bottom. Good tip for the exhaust too. Thanks!

smokeyw 02-17-2011 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skidder (Post 1551985)
smokeyw can you explain your build maybe then someone can help answer your question.

Sorry if I was not clear.
My UDS is pretty standard. It has three 3/4" intakes evenly spaced around the base. Two of them have caps and the other has a ball valve. I have a kingsford dome lid on it that fits very well. I always keep the exhaust on the dome lid wide open while cooking. My charcoal basket is 14" in diameter and 9" tall standing 3 1/2" from the bottom of the drum. I use a 50/50 mix of Royal Oak lump and Kingsford blue.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...ng/UDS1003.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...ng/UDS1013.jpg

garyk1398 02-17-2011 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bover (Post 1551989)
Working on building my first UDS right now. The drums I've got have removable locking lids, and the lids themselves have a ~2" bung and 1/2" air vent both with screw-in caps. In y'alls vast experience do you think just removing these caps during the cook would be enough ventilation for the smoke or should I drill some more holes? Right now I'm thinking that the bung alone would provide about as much flow as the vent on a Weber lid so no additional modifications would be necessary, but would appreciate insight from you guys.

Thanks.

What I've done and like is using a black metal threaded pipe with an elbow attached so if it rains, it doesn't fall into the drum.

jdbh 02-17-2011 09:18 AM

lima ohio there is a guy that sells drums food grade 15$ a barrels they had yogurt in them
www.ohiobarrel.com

righteousdog 02-17-2011 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smokeyw (Post 1552024)
I use a 50/50 mix of Royal Oak lump and Kingsford blue.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...ng/UDS1003.jpg

my OCD tells me you have not meticulously arranged your fuel :becky:

Skidder 02-17-2011 07:28 PM

Sounds like maybe your wood possibly caught fire and gave you a quick temp spike

jcinadr 02-18-2011 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garyk1398 (Post 1552026)
What I've done and like is using a black metal threaded pipe with an elbow attached so if it rains, it doesn't fall into the drum.

+1 used a steel nipple. Lid collects water during a rain. You can always put a can over the nipple to keep the water from raining into the hole

Chavo27 02-18-2011 03:53 PM

just got my new step bit

Chavo27 02-18-2011 04:26 PM

what are you guys using to cut the hole in the top? My step bit only goes to 1 3/8"

Chavo27 02-18-2011 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by righteousdog (Post 1552758)
my OCD tells me you have not meticulously arranged your fuel :becky:

I love this idea! I use coat hangers to move my basket...

Rick T 02-18-2011 05:47 PM

You can use a hole saw. Right from HD for the larger holes.

2ndchance 02-18-2011 06:19 PM

Here we go
 
My son called me up and said he had a FREE :becky::becky::becky: drum for me. All I had to do was go get it. I have read 90 percent of this thread and feel confident that I will have a new addition in a week or two. I have already got the 3/4 nipples, one 3/4 elbow, two pipe caps, and now I have the main part. I will probably go buy a cheap kettle so I can get a lid and grate.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1298074564
Since it had Hydraulic fluid in it I don't have to worry about a liner, just need to clean it and give it a good burn:-D

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1298074347

This is the lid to my Weber, I do not want to have adjust it to fit the drum so I will find a new cheap kettle or a used Weber at the right price
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1298074384

kcarz 02-18-2011 09:53 PM

I live in the KC area, where are you finding drums under $30? Found several places selling junk for about $25

righteousdog 02-19-2011 03:10 PM

one set aspen/mahagony removable side shelves awaiting linseed oil - why not add some accelerant?

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2975878_n.jpg

close up. the shelves slide into the handle in case i don't want to use them or future mods/accessories.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1760216_n.jpg

the twins. i should be finishing the other set of shelves instead of posting :becky:

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1371830_n.jpg

this one has to do with losing stuff

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2253176_n.jpg

blackdog043 02-19-2011 04:10 PM

"Quote This is the lid to my Weber, I do not want to have adjust it to fit the drum so I will find a new cheap kettle or a used Weber at the right price
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1298074384[/QUOTE]

I took a grinder to the top rim and took enough off all the way around until my lid fit. You might even try the lid on the bottom if you didn't cut it open yet, it might fit better.

2ndchance 02-19-2011 05:24 PM

I never thought about trying the bottom, thanks for the idea Blackdog:thumb:. I still want another Weber lid just to keep things simple and I just ordered a Smokenator for my Weber.

IDODSICK 02-20-2011 06:13 PM

nice looking rigs righteous dog.

after my 6th cook now, i figured the spike wasnt really a spike. my smoking wood was smoking rather heavily initially causing the temps to be lower (albeit 220-230). once the smoke settled down it wasnt choking the fire out hence the increase in temp. i need to just wait a bit longer for it to dial in before leaving it alone. my buddy is bringing me 30ish lbs of boar he shot down in FL tomorrow. wish me luck, its my first boar cook.

bover 02-21-2011 09:36 AM

So I finally finished up my UDS build this weekend and broke it in with a 3 hour empty burn with the intakes wide open, then cranked it down to 225* and seasoned it with a few fatties, then cranked it open again and let it run the rest of the day. I have to say that if there any non-believers reading this thread, if you follow the general guidelines set forth by the brethren they will definitely deliver as promised. When all was said and done, I ended up running around 350* for 9 hours total and 225* for 3 hours total and only used about 8 lbs. of charcoal. Un-farking-believable. Now on to the pr0n:

For this first build, I went with the no-frills-no-skills approach. No welding, no step-bits for the big intake pipe hole, no grinding or cutting. The basket is made up of the charcoal grate from a Weber kettle, 2 12x24" sheets of 18 ga expanded steel, and then some bolts, nuts and bailing wire where necessary:
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/2606/img2830x.jpg

And here's the UDS itself. For the intakes at the bottom, I drilled 3 3/8" holes around the bottom and covered them up with 1" diameter magnets. Bottom rack is 22" above the base of the charcoal basket and the top rack is 6" above that. Thermometer is the basic 100/475 from BBQ Bonanza.
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/8871/img2831e.jpg

Minion method setup. Coals lit with weed burner
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/1899/img2837ob.jpg

First batch of "seasoning" fatties
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/8343/img2844j.jpg

With two intakes blocked and the third at 3/4 open, it settled in to 225* exactly shortly after this and held steady with no tending. I'm blown away by the efficiency of the rig!
http://img573.imageshack.us/img573/5066/img2847o.jpg

And here's a shot of the final product. The one on top was stuffed with sauteed onions and cheddar with Corky's rub. The one on the bottom was stuffed with bleu cheese and bacon with steak seasoning on the outside instead of a rub. I got busy tending to a sick kid so they overcooked a little, but still turned out great.
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/1746/img2854h.jpg

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. This UDS will bring me and my family a lot of joy and full bellies for many years to come. For anyone on the fence about building their own UDS, do it! There's just something incredibly satisfying about smoking your food in something you built, which just happens to be something that most others use as a garbage can!

bover 02-21-2011 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kcarz (Post 1553918)
I live in the KC area, where are you finding drums under $30? Found several places selling junk for about $25

Consolidated Container Company. Just south of Kemper on State Line Rd.

Sammy_Shuford 02-21-2011 07:29 PM

Just ran my UDS for 26 hours, 225-250, on 8# of Rancher Briquettes.

Just can't beat it!
http://samshuford.com/BBQ/wp-content...um-225x300.jpg

Ltigar 02-21-2011 07:37 PM

this is a good thread.
just a few hundred pages too long though.

stglide 02-21-2011 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sammy_Shuford (Post 1556794)
Just ran my UDS for 26 hours, 225-250, on 8# of Rancher Briquettes.

Just can't beat it!
http://samshuford.com/BBQ/wp-content...um-225x300.jpg

Need details on the blower setup! Definitely a neat looking setup! :thumb:

kcarz 02-21-2011 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bover (Post 1556543)
Consolidated Container Company. Just south of Kemper on State Line Rd.

Thanks Bover. I will check it out.

Sammy_Shuford 02-22-2011 12:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stglide (Post 1556808)
Need details on the blower setup! Definitely a neat looking setup! :thumb:

That is a "Stoker" by brand, 10CFM blower. Has a 12VDC motor (I removed the Stoker electronics) and wired in a 12DC razer charger cord.

The Pid controller is an AUBER Ins. device. 6 programable steps based on time. (60MIN at 100F, 240MON at 225F)

Their link is on my Blog (see Signature)

rattler4675 02-22-2011 09:08 PM

Well guys, I have read most of this thread and I am ready to build my own UDS. I obtained a drum today (hard to beat the price since it was free). I still have to come up with all the other parts and pieces but I have a lot of great ideas thanks to this thread and none of the other parts seem to be too hard to come by.
It will likely be a few weeks before I start construction, but, I do want to say thanks to each of you that have contributed ideas and pictures to this thread. I am sure that they will guide me safely to my quest for good food from my own UDS.

Thanks again,

Stan

Meat Burner 02-22-2011 09:26 PM

Stan, it's an easy build bro. My best advise is to keep it as simple as possible. That is what will work the best. Keep us posted on what you decide on.

SmokerKing 02-23-2011 01:35 PM

Just finished up a valve mod over the weekend. I was getting tired of guessing and checking the valve ball locations during a cook. So I decided to make the adjustment easier to get to and easier to know the valve status.

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/8650/standoff.jpg

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/4...lvebracket.jpg

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/7089/assembly.jpg

wheelterrapin 02-23-2011 01:50 PM

You know the drill, no pictures then it did not happen --pictures please

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmokerKing (Post 1558708)
Just finished up a valve mod over the weekend. I was getting tired of guessing and checking the valve ball locations during a cook. So I decided to make the adjustment easier to get to and easier to know the valve status.

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/8650/standoff.jpg

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/4...lvebracket.jpg

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/7089/assembly.jpg


wheelterrapin 02-23-2011 01:51 PM

Cancel last message, it just took the pictures awhile to download...sorry!

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheelterrapin (Post 1558718)
You know the drill, no pictures then it did not happen --pictures please


expatpig 02-23-2011 02:26 PM

Why didn't you just put an elbow on the nipple, a length of pipe and mount the ball valve near the top of the drum so you could see it?

SmokerKing 02-23-2011 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by expatpig (Post 1558743)
Why didn't you just put an elbow on the nipple, a length of pipe and mount the ball valve near the top of the drum so you could see it?

I have 3 valves and doing all 3 in pipe is just too bulky IMO. Plus, I've read some things about air flow issues with the extended pipe and valve remoted like your pictures.

I know the valve location based upon the handle location, much like the original handle location on the valve. Jsut got tired of bending over and adjusting and checking.

Besides, I have a welder, chop saws, tap & die kits, time, and I like to fabricate.

Just another way to "skin a cat". :clap2:

1FUNVET 02-23-2011 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmokerKing (Post 1558752)
I have 3 valves and doing all 3 in pipe is just too bulky IMO. Plus, I've read some things about air flow issues with the extended pipe and valve remoted like your pictures.

I know the valve location based upon the handle location, much like the oriignal on the valve. Jsut got tired of bending over and adjusting and checking.

Besides, I have a welder, chop saws, tap & die kits, time, and I like to fabricate.

Just another way to "skin a cat". :clap2:


I just use my foot to adjust mine :laugh:


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