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-   -   Ugly Drum Smoker (https://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23436)

garyk1398 10-01-2008 08:25 PM

Isn't she prudie before she gets scorched?

TNinSC 10-01-2008 08:38 PM

If it is unlined do you even need to burn it? Was it a food grade drum or new?

garyk1398 10-01-2008 09:07 PM

That about the only thing I'm concerned about. i got it from a recycling drum company. There claim is that is never held any pesticides or harsh chemicals otherwise they wouldn't have taken it. They said it was blasted on the inside and washed several times over. The inside is VERY clean. I just want to burn it really good to be sure!!! Plus fire is a good thing!!

From the looks of the inside. Seems like I could just sand out what little dark residue that in there, but i figure what the fark. Can burn as many pallets as i can haul from the local builders supply a few blocks away!!

TNinSC 10-01-2008 09:16 PM

Sounds like a good idea. Fire is always a fun thing. Good luck on your build and keep us posted. Welcome to the drumheads.

jdub 10-02-2008 09:13 AM

What a thread,eh?!
 
If you can't find it here, it can't be found! I've built two, here is what I have learned:
The first got a Weber kettle lid. When I cut the top of the drum to accept the lid, I was never able to get a cut plum enough to make a good seal ( I am not sure if it is the drum that is not cut perfectly or the lid itself is out of plum). This drum has 4 1 inch tubes welded in as vents. 1 has a ball valve, and 1 has a mount for a guru.
This drum is fairly jumpy in the temp department, and I am sure it is the seal of the lid-I can put the lid on one way, and the temp drops. Another way and temp goes up. Add the variability of the ball valve and I have a unit that requires a decent bit of babysitting. It is a bit more stable at higher temps, so chicken and the like do better on this one than say pork butt.

So I built a second, and went as old school as I could.
Three 7/8" holes with plugs. 1 rack 24 inches from the bottom of fire basket and the regular drum lid with a good tight seal. This lid had two bungs on top- a 1.5" in the center and a 2" off to the side. I threaded a 1.5 ", foot long pipe in the center hole.
With that setup, the temps dropped steadily with one vent open, and ran around 300 with two open. Soooooo, I lost the small pipe in the center and got a 2 inch for the side bung (got a 90 deg for the top for rain also).
Eureka. One intake open is a little under 225 and steady, 2 open around 275 or 280 and steady. El perfecto. Runs just like a BDS-a little hot, but it is a different kind of cooking technique. Love it. Since it is now very consistent I think it will be a real hoot to put the guru on it (choke down the exhaust), but not at all needed.
The difference between the two drums is the consistency of the airflow.
So the next project:
I really want to get the kettle top thing figured out to have a usable 2 decker. Step 1 I want to try to get a perfectly level cut on top of the drum (I think I have 1 more chance at that before the cut gets too close to the "rib" of the drum and the lid on longer fits), and get that seal a bit better. If not, that drum goes on the scrap heap, and another flattop will be born. Maybe that will be a double decker.

jrichter52 10-02-2008 03:12 PM

[quote=jdub;749924]If you can't find it here, it can't be found! I've built two, here is what I have learned:
The first got a Weber kettle lid. When I cut the top of the drum to accept the lid, I was never able to get a cut plum enough to make a good seal ( I am not sure if it is the drum that is not cut perfectly or the lid itself is out of plum). This drum has 4 1 inch tubes welded in as vents. 1 has a ball valve, and 1 has a mount for a guru.
This drum is fairly jumpy in the temp department, and I am sure it is the seal of the lid-I can put the lid on one way, and the temp drops. Another way and temp goes up. Add the variability of the ball valve and I have a unit that requires a decent bit of babysitting. It is a bit more stable at higher temps, so chicken and the like do better on this one than say pork butt.


I am using a webber top and a guru (10 cfm) no other vents, built up side down with good results after I sealed the air leaks on the bottom.

I wonder if you where leaking air on the bottom?

ComputerMike 10-02-2008 04:14 PM

I had to cut the top off my drum as well so the lid is an iffy fit. Thats more about my cutting skills with an angle grinder than anything. I cam get a decent seal with a little tweaking and I managed 17+ hours at a steady temp. I might consider building a lip out of magnetic tap to better seal the lid.

garyk1398 10-02-2008 06:46 PM

Where to drill the rack holes?
 
I know I should drill at 1 3/4"below the top and then at 8" but how do I square them so they are evenly spaces apart? Drum from edge to edge is 22 3/4" If I put a rope around the hole thing its 70" total. Is there some math equation that I need to figure it out sot the holes are square to each other?

ON THE FARM 10-02-2008 08:58 PM

The way I do it is find the seam that runs up the drum, make a mark 18" on both sides of the seam (near the bottom), this will give you your side hole marks.
Measure 18" from the marks you just made, yes you will find out that they will over lap.
Now split the difference between the over lapping marks and that is the center or your front hole location.
No what I do is measure 2" from the bottom lip of the barrel and pop my intake holes.

garyk1398 10-03-2008 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ON THE FARM (Post 750354)
The way I do it is find the seam that runs up the drum, make a mark 18" on both sides of the seam (near the bottom), this will give you your side hole marks.
Measure 18" from the marks you just made, yes you will find out that they will over lap.
Now split the difference between the over lapping marks and that is the center or your front hole location.
No what I do is measure 2" from the bottom lip of the barrel and pop my intake holes.

Sounds like you are referring to 4 intake holes...right? How about the small ones for the racks? Do the same thing?

Barbarian 10-03-2008 12:16 AM

Hey JDub, you don't have to cut the lip off, just build your own lid. Sounds like you weld, so just use a donor drum. I have done two. They both have good fits. The tall one has round bar welded to the cut off donor lid then flat bar welded around it for a lip. The short one was the second one I did for my UDG and I used a donor lid, cut the center out and welded it to the 6" top from a donor drum. So it is just like a normal lid in the way it fits on the UDG. It also works on the UDS of course.

ON THE FARM 10-03-2008 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garyk1398 (Post 750417)
Sounds like you are referring to 4 intake holes...right? How about the small ones for the racks? Do the same thing?

No, this is the lay out I use for 3 holes; I donít put a hole in the seam.
For the racks itís basically the same, just measure 1 foot from the seam each way then one directly over the front hole.

cwiese 10-03-2008 11:02 AM

The only drums I can find contain moter oil for tractors is that a bad idea?

ON THE FARM 10-03-2008 11:13 AM

You will need to burn it out, it should be fine.

cwiese 10-03-2008 11:49 AM

great i will do so I think I want to build it more than I want to use it looks like fun


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