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Paul B SS UDS SS Auspit |
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Here's something else that might work: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8645k59 1/4" thick x 1/2" wide adhesive-backed silicone foam good for 500 degrees (the adhesive is good for that temp too). Rather expensive at $24 for 15', but it may work well. Probably a bit to dense to take up more than about .01" of warpage though... Just a thought... -Rodney |
Hello all! I've been reading this thread off and on for a week and I am still only to about page 40! There is some great ideas and a wealth of information here! That being said, I am having a hard time making some deciesions for my UDS build.
I bought my reconditioned drum from Consolidated Container in Kansas City Kansas last week. I didn't really pay very close attention to it when I was picking it out because the lighting was dim and they were trying to tell me they are all the same size which is supposed to be UN regulation or something. When I got it home I noticed that the lid was a bit delapadated, nothing serious, just a few dents. I didn't really mind because I was planning on using a weber lid anyway. The second thing that I discovered was that the diameter of my drum at the top rind was 34 1/2", which is way too wide for my lid to fit. I was going to cut the lip out of the top of the weber and fit it to the top of my drum. This morning I took the kettle part off it's legs and set it inside the drum. I don't think that's going to work because it almost fell right in as well. Basically I think I am down to 4 options: 1. cut the lip off the drum. I believe the lid would fit without the lip 2. cut out the center of the drum lid and only leave enough material to fit on the drum. The weber lid fits securly on the bottom side of the drum lid. 3. scrap the kettle lid altogether and just use the drum lid 4. look for another drum What do you guys think I should do?? |
Another option would be to weld the Weber lid to the drum lid after you cut a hole in the lid that's the right size.
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Thanks for the suggestions on the lid gasket. I flattened out the lip on the BL grill lid and it fits pretty good now. I will try it as is before deciding to go for a gasket of some kind.
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Ok, I am to pg. 110 now and figured out to flip it upside down and cut out the bottom. Should I do my burn first to remove contaniments? Reason I ask is I would rather drill my holes before my burn to aid in breathing. my concern is will the lid (now on bottom) warp under the heat? It's already dented so maybe it won't matter anyway.
Another question: I know a few have been using stainless hardware but due to the cost and limited availability I am looking at other options. It looks like some folks have just been using standard grade hardware (zink plated?). I have access to black steel bolts but having problems locating black nuts and washers. Should I not worry so much about the standard grade hardware or is it gonna poison my food?? I may occasionally run this thing at 500* for pizza or Prime rib. |
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I have seen several discussions related to the hardware topic (i haven't made it to the last 10 pages as I am at page 124). I will probably by stainless. |
Go to McMaster-Carr for hardware. They have everything you can imagine in SS as well as black and uncoated. They ship fast- you'll usually have it next day. Be forewarned that a guy could get LOST in their catalog!
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A propane torch will remove the "noxious" from your hardware. Its a coating. Throw them in the drum when you do your burn if you like. After my first seasoning everything was black and coated. The current trend of using BGE style intakes has been awesome for me. It bumped my available top temps, allows me to give my basket a shake if neccesary and saves me the annoyance of ugly plumbing hanging off my barrel. And the last benefit of easy clean out will not apply to you with the removable bottom but is wonderful for the rest of us.
A nice addition for your drum is to pick up some car tire valve stems- the kind that are bolted on. They are stainless steel and often in the garbage of your local tire store. This makes a 2" entry port(sturdy) for your thermometer and if you get 12" probes you can use it to check the various areas of your grill. Get 'er done!!! |
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These latches work good for keeping the lid (bottom) on. http://www.amazon.com/MSI-PRO-51120-...8465523&sr=8-1 http://www.richardmparker.com/storag...le_clamps.JPG? Here it is finished http://www.richardmparker.com/storag..._v1/Drum3.JPG? |
Rich I like your clamps.
Do think that they could be adjusted to hold the Weber lid on tighter. Mine is a loose fit. |
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Mine is a loose fit, so I wouldn't worry about it to much. I took a pair of channel locks and bent the rim of the kettle lid out and then sat it on the drum and shaped it with a rubber hammer. The only problem you can have with a lid is if there are huge gaps that could change your air flow but you do not need an air tight lid on a drum. Some people blame the flair ups on lid air leaks but they are really caused by the change of air flow in the drum when you take the lid off with the intakes open. If you shut the intakes down before you remove the lid you drastically improve your chances of not causing a flair up. But if you leave the lid off too long it will still flair up. When I fire my drum up and it is smoking really heavy the smoke will roll out under the rid instead of the exhaust, but when it starts burning good and blue it doesn't have a problem. |
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