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Nuco59 09-20-2017 06:07 PM

Your temps WILL spike if you take your lid off and take your sweet time wrapping, spritzing, flipping or admiring the color of whatever you are smoking

Don't panic- don't start closing vents or intakes. Just "chill Winston". The temps will come back down- really - no fooling. It will take a bit of time- but a few degrees never hurt anybody.

Best weapon: minimize that "lid off time". When you take the lid off, all the coals you have been keeping asleep- wake up to the huge influx of fresh air-and say "heyyyy! and perk up- there's your spike. If you just put the lid back on -leave the settings alone, they will go back to napping and your temps will be right where you left them.

ebijack 09-21-2017 04:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddypluka (Post 3873546)
hey folks just finished my first cook on the UDS had problems keeping temps down as soon as I opened the lid that was it up in the 300s and I couldn't bring them back down are there any tricks I'm missing

Close your intake/intakes before removing the lid.
3-5 mins after you have put the lid back on, re-open your intake/intakes. No where near the temp spikes w/o closing intakes. Like mentioned, within 5-10 mins you are back at your target temp.

10miler 09-21-2017 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddypluka (Post 3873546)
hey folks just finished my first cook on the UDS had problems keeping temps down

as soon as I opened the lid that was it up in the 300s and I couldn't bring them back down are there any tricks I'm missing

Are you saying that temps NEVER came back down? Or it just took awhile?

SmokinJohn 09-22-2017 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoosier BBQ (Post 3865423)
So I just picked up a really nice unlined food grade barrel. My question is should I burn off the paint on the outside and paint it with high temp paint? Or will it not come off with regular cooking? I don't want to build a nice smoker and then it look bad after the first cook or 2. If I need to get the paint it came with off and painted with high temp paint Id rather do it before I build it.

Thanks

The old paint may not come off during a cook, depending on what type of paint was used.

My vote is to burn off the old paint, and use VHT paint (I use the 500 degree stuff) to customize it.

Now all you have to worry about is grease and stuff mucking up the pretty paint job.

SmokinJohn 09-22-2017 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cowgirl (Post 3861226)
Don't paint the inside. Clean it down to bare metal. You want to oil it and season like cast iron.
Welcome to the forum!

Listen to this woman!

SmokinJohn 09-22-2017 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vicusj (Post 3846540)
Hi All,

Here some piccies of my setup.


http://i.imgur.com/XZKFMZzm.jpg


My UDS with the HM mounted

http://i.imgur.com/1ATsxN9m.jpg

My HM / Damper combo

http://i.imgur.com/qhfRZj6m.jpg

And its guts...

http://i.imgur.com/qSdB07jm.jpg

The base where the air is channeled to the fan-pods on the bottom

http://i.imgur.com/awFPtGKm.jpg

The fan-pods

http://i.imgur.com/A6FYwlPm.jpg

All connected and running


http://i.imgur.com/6VxdN5Tm.jpg

Pit probe (Thermocouple) and 3 meat probes (Maverick 733 probes)

http://i.imgur.com/00qpYYXm.jpg

Air diffuser underneath coal basket

http://i.imgur.com/xzXEhBem.jpg

Coal basket ready to be lit.

http://i.imgur.com/hAVHrmdm.jpg

UDS Hinged lid

http://i.imgur.com/0cM9tUlm.jpg

Testrun, dialling in the PID values (Orange is the pit temp, red is the set temp, degC)

Did I see a Raspberry Pi Zero in the middle of that ATC?

OEF5 09-22-2017 09:48 PM

5 Attachment(s)
So here is my first build, it is built just like the one I got 12 years ago from my brother after he read about them here. The original is still going!

Holes all drilled, fire set and rolling, basket nearly done. I've got three more to do!

Sorry for the sideways pics can't flip them from the phone

PorkinButts82 09-23-2017 06:50 AM

High heat paint is not needed on these drums. Regular rustoleum works just fine.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

bakerk7 09-25-2017 06:47 PM

How to remove the bolt ring
 
How do I remove the bolt ring? Really struggling to figure this out .I can't turn the darn bolt.

Nuco59 09-25-2017 07:18 PM

It should just be a bolt.
Righty Tighty
Lefty Loosey
(Smitty could probably do it with his bare hands.
The rest of us need a wrench.)

If all else fails - take a hack saw to the band. No one uses them for a UDS anyway.

bakerk7 09-25-2017 07:36 PM

I went at it one more time. First turn it was off. Bonus was finding out it's an unlined drum .

Nuco59 09-25-2017 07:37 PM

Nice! You are well on your way then.

bakerk7 09-25-2017 11:20 PM

Minneapolis new unlined drum
 
For those of you from Minneapolis, Saint Paul, and surrounding areas I got my new unlined drum at Consolidated Container in North East for $51

bakerk7 09-26-2017 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmokerKing (Post 2591789)
If you live in a large metropolitan area you have a better chance of finding a new drum or "container" vendor nearby. If you live in a rural area, you're looking at longer trip if you want new.

Here is an example of where I bought mine in Phoenix;

Sunwest Container

http://www.sunwestcontainer.com/metal-drums.html


Completely agree with you. I searched for 'container Minneapolis' and found a new drum for $51.

Vicusj 09-27-2017 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmokinJohn (Post 3874607)
Did I see a Raspberry Pi Zero in the middle of that ATC?

That is a RPi Zero W indeed - it is merely used to host the webpage for the HeaterMeter controller.

muddypluka 09-28-2017 03:10 PM

hi 10miler I was in able to reduce the temp I think to much air got to the coals and it just wouldn't shut down enough to drop before the pork belly was done

bit of an update though I have purchased a barrel with a lift off lid and am in the process of swapping all the pipework and thermometer to it I also have some heat paste to seal the holes so the only way ir will get into the drum is through the valve/taps

Czarbecue 10-03-2017 09:15 PM

There’s been a Craigslist post that shows up every week. Guy builds custom UDS and I emailed him more so out of curiosity than anything. He quoted me $450. I guess he has to eat but damn... hell of a markup.

aerotech11 10-03-2017 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Czarbecue (Post 3880884)
There’s been a Craigslist post that shows up every week. Guy builds custom UDS and I emailed him more so out of curiosity than anything. He quoted me $450. I guess he has to eat but damn... hell of a markup.

That would be a hell of a business to get into for those prices. I know people would pay that around here. Hmmmmm

SmokerKing 10-03-2017 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aerotech11 (Post 3880895)
That would be a hell of a business to get into for those prices. I know people would pay that around here. Hmmmmm

hmmmmmmmm

aerotech11 10-03-2017 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmokerKing (Post 3880900)
hmmmmmmmm

I see your thinking what I'm thinking sunny az. Where about are you in az? I just picked up a clean drum for $20. Turn that into $450 I can quit my job. Ha ha ha.

OEF5 10-04-2017 06:44 AM

1 Attachment(s)
$450 might be a bit high, but look at the PBC prices, $799. I get there is more stuff in them.

I just built one and I'm sitting just at parts, $180 into the thing. Now if I were to take that up a notch to being a full custom cooker, powder coated and all that, that cost is going to go up as well.

I've also not charged myself for my time and labor! See the attached image:

The one on the right is the one I just built. here are the basics, Barrel $15, Tel Tru $45.20, rack was $18, coal rack was $10 then all the rest of the hardware.

If I were to build them, just standard, no paint or anything $250-$300 wouldn't be a bad price point. They are ten times better than any COS you can get at a box store for the same price. I know, I just got a Char Griller at Lowes for total of $300 and I'm going to smoke more on my UDS' than it lol

SmokerKing 10-04-2017 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aerotech11 (Post 3880915)
I see your thinking what I'm thinking sunny az. Where about are you in az? I just picked up a clean drum for $20. Turn that into $450 I can quit my job. Ha ha ha.

All my BUFORD drums cost me more than $450.00. But, f course, they're not basic drums.
I've sold only one unit to a friend, he covered the material costs, about $500.00.
$500.00 drums aren't for everyone, i haven't quit my day job.

Czarbecue 10-04-2017 11:18 AM

This is what comes with a $450 UDS:

*New 55 gal Drum - Powder Coated single color of your choice
*Charcoal Basket - 16 pound capacity
*3" Professional Adjustable Thermometer with upgraded 4" probe
*Custom Cool Touch Spring Handle
*One Cooking Grate
*Digital Thermometer Probe Port
*Three Intake Ports
*4 All Steel Casters

The exhaust is just 8 holes drilled around the lid.

PorkinButts82 10-04-2017 11:26 AM

Got a pic of said $450 UDS? A rock solid UDS can be built for under $150, maybe even $100 depending on how much of a deal getter you are.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

PorkinButts82 10-04-2017 11:27 AM

I'm into mine for about $300 https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c0de970716.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8f40da9cd4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c89690541b.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

OEF5 10-04-2017 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Czarbecue (Post 3881133)
This is what comes with a $450 UDS:

*New 55 gal Drum - Powder Coated single color of your choice $55 for me
*Charcoal Basket - 16 pound capacity
*3" Professional Adjustable Thermometer with upgraded 4" probe
*Custom Cool Touch Spring Handle $20 for me
*One Cooking Grate
*Digital Thermometer Probe Port $15
*Three Intake Ports
*4 All Steel Casters No clue on cost, I didn't go with casters

The exhaust is just 8 holes drilled around the lid.


See my updates in Red, I've looked into powder coating and that's only $55 for the powder coat, not the time for sandblasting or prep. The place I checked was $125 and hour for that so for powder coating one, on top of the $180 I already have in it that doubles the cost to $260. All of the prices that I put in red would be upgrades to my smoker. If I had someone ask me to build them something like this, it would be in the $400 range.

I'm actually going to have one done in powder coat for my daughter as a graduation present and totally upgrade the heck out of it, glow in the dark Tel Tru, additional things on the outside for her college and sorority the fancy spring handles. I figure it's going to cost me $300 or more just for that build with only those upgrades.

Czarbecue 10-04-2017 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PorkinButts82 (Post 3881137)
Got a pic of said $450 UDS? A rock solid UDS can be built for under $150, maybe even $100 depending on how much of a deal getter you are.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

This thing looked so basic I thought it would be comparable to a PBC.

https://images.craigslist.org/00e0e_...Js_600x450.jpg

https://images.craigslist.org/01111_...7_1200x900.jpg

OEF5 10-04-2017 12:00 PM

I wouldn't pay $1 for that, Cowboys suck :heh::heh:

Czarbecue 10-04-2017 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OEF5 (Post 3881156)
I wouldn't pay $1 for that, Cowboys suck :heh::heh:

I agree. It will take your brisket to the stall and just give up.

Nuco59 10-04-2017 05:41 PM

Wonder if Jerry Jones gets his cut of all those cowboy UDS sales? I wouldn't drop dime on the fella or anything but he ought to know that Jones has lots of lawyers who might call him up and say "hey".

Paint scheme and logo not withstanding - $450 is not a super high a price to pay. I'd lose those cheezy risers tho'

SmokerKing 10-04-2017 09:15 PM

$500 My cost - BUFORD UDS;

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...922/hL84tZ.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...924/g673Du.jpg

el luchador 10-05-2017 01:06 AM

2 Attachment(s)
guys ive been racking my brains trying to figure out a way to have a uds stick burner.

what do you guys think of this idea? the drum is sitting on bricks and would slide off for cleaning
sorry abt poor sketchup skills. downloaded it two days ago

ebijack 10-05-2017 03:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by el luchador (Post 3881519)
guys ive been racking my brains trying to figure out a way to have a uds stick burner.

You can purchase a door made to fit a 55 gal drum and mount it.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=231293
https://www.bbqsmokermods.com/produc...wsm-qcdr22.htm
Or make one yourself. Note: you will need alot more intake and exhaust than what is required for smoking using coal/wood to burn wood splits. Some folks run with the door open as their intake control. I use my intakes below the door. 4" exhaust is ideal for getting to 800+*.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...922/6XWZx8.jpg

Nuco59 10-05-2017 05:47 AM

That wood fired UDS could be a fun project. Building the fire box separately and plopping your drum section right on top is pretty novel. How much do you plant to shorten the drum so it's not too tall? I've seen folks piece together sections of drums- it doesn't look too bad. Good point is you don't have to worry as much about sealing the leaks back up as you would with charcoal burning UDS.

Keep figuring, planning and drawing- it could turn into a very cool cooker.

el luchador 10-05-2017 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebijack (Post 3881529)
You can purchase a door made to fit a 55 gal drum and mount it.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=231293
https://www.bbqsmokermods.com/produc...wsm-qcdr22.htm
Or make one yourself. Note: you will need alot more intake and exhaust than what is required for smoking using coal/wood to burn wood splits. Some folks run with the door open as their intake control. I use my intakes below the door. 4" exhaust is ideal for getting to 800+*.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...922/6XWZx8.jpg

thanks for that pic. I have seriously considered that, using a full diameter baffle or two between the fire and the meat. Im not sure how it would work but that would be the easiest method.
I was thinking put the door right at the bottom lip of the barrel so one can open it up and sweep out the ash.

thanks for sharing that pic. is that perchance your build?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nuco59 (Post 3881546)
That wood fired UDS could be a fun project. Building the fire box separately and plopping your drum section right on top is pretty novel. How much do you plant to shorten the drum so it's not too tall? I've seen folks piece together sections of drums- it doesn't look too bad. Good point is you don't have to worry as much about sealing the leaks back up as you would with charcoal burning UDS.

Keep figuring, planning and drawing- it could turn into a very cool cooker.

thanks a bunch man. I was planning on going 18 inches for the height of the drum so its not too tall.

thank you man. I want to figure this out. theres got to be an inexpensive way to burn wood with the uds :)

ebijack 10-05-2017 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by el luchador (Post 3881587)
thanks for that pic.
I was thinking put the door right at the bottom lip of the barrel so one can open it up and sweep out the ash.
thanks for sharing that pic. is that perchance your build?

Yes that is one of my builds.
The access door has to reach well above the fire basket in order to easily add/adjust logs. Sweeping out coals is easy with
https://www.menards.com/main/housewa...1706210&ipos=9
and dump ashes where ever you want. Very easy.
I burn alot of wood in my vertical UDS. That is what I use it for the most. I have other "smokers", one being an offset.
Questions, just ask.

el luchador 10-05-2017 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebijack (Post 3881609)
Yes that is one of my builds.
The access door has to reach well above the fire basket in order to easily add/adjust logs. Sweeping out coals is easy with
https://www.menards.com/main/housewa...1706210&ipos=9
and dump ashes where ever you want. Very easy.
I burn alot of wood in my vertical UDS. That is what I use it for the most. I have other "smokers", one being an offset.
Questions, just ask.

AWESOME.
that's like me asking my boy "if you want Pizza, just ask" . the answer is always HEck yeah. :biggrin1:

so heck yeah I do have questions.
burning just wood, what kind of bafflage do you have between the fire and the meat?

what temps do you generally cook at?

do you put logs in the barrel or get it to embers outside the barrel and then put the embers in the barrel?

if you have a baffle, how high up is it?

you made a cutout of the barrel. and then it looks like you surrounded the opening with some steel - what gauge and width?

These are just the beginning questions. I will have MOAR!!! :biggrin1:

THANKS

ebijack 10-05-2017 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by el luchador (Post 3881631)
AWESOME.
that's like me asking my boy "if you want Pizza, just ask" . the answer is always HEck yeah. :biggrin1:

so heck yeah I do have questions.
burning just wood, what kind of bafflage do you have between the fire and the meat? I have 3 bolts that can hold another grate with deflector. But I don't use it.

what temps do you generally cook at? 275-750*

do you put logs in the barrel or get it to embers outside the barrel and then put the embers in the barrel? splits, same I use for my offset.

if you have a baffle, how high up is it? 15" from the bottom if I remember right.

you made a cutout of the barrel. and then it looks like you surrounded the opening with some steel - what gauge and width? I used some 1/8X3/4" and rolled to the shape of the drum. Tack weld. You could use some sheet metal 1" wide and do the same. I haven't seen where what I used makes a difference.

These are just the beginning questions. I will have MOAR!!! :biggrin1:

THANKS

No problem.

Czarbecue 10-05-2017 11:20 AM

Ugly Drum Smoker
 
Correct me if I am wrong but isn’t that just an elaborated vertical smoker at that point?

Czarbecue 10-05-2017 11:21 AM

This is pretty awesome. :clap:

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmokerKing (Post 3881475)


el luchador 10-05-2017 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebijack (Post 3881675)
No problem.

thank you.

when burning wood in the uds do you get the same flavor as with the offset, or is there a difference?

if there is a difference would you be so kind as to expound.
thanks

ebijack 10-05-2017 12:47 PM

Using my offset I'm smoking. Using the vertical UDS I'm grilling/smoking over wood fire. Like a Argentine grill, just i have alot more height and wind doesn't bother it like an Argentine. You do get a great light smoke flavor. Fire management (air flow and split size) allows me to grill at most any temp.
I also have a pizza lid I made for pizza and high heat grilling.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...924/vMVv9K.jpg

el luchador 10-05-2017 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebijack (Post 3881713)
Using my offset I'm smoking. Using the vertical UDS I'm grilling/smoking over wood fire. Like a Argentine grill, just i have alot more height and wind doesn't bother it like an Argentine. You do get a great light smoke flavor. Fire management (air flow and split size) allows me to grill at most any temp.
I also have a pizza lid I made for pizza and high heat grilling.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...924/vMVv9K.jpg

Awesome. Either way, for about $40 Im going to try it out. If I don't like it I have about 3 friends that need a free UDS :)

thanks

SkunkApe 10-05-2017 03:41 PM

I found this forum looking for ideas for my first UDS build and man do I have a lot of reading to do!

el luchador 10-05-2017 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebijack (Post 3881713)
Using my offset I'm smoking. Using the vertical UDS I'm grilling/smoking over wood fire. Like a Argentine grill, just i have alot more height and wind doesn't bother it like an Argentine. You do get a great light smoke flavor. Fire management (air flow and split size) allows me to grill at most any temp.
I also have a pizza lid I made for pizza and high heat grilling.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...924/vMVv9K.jpg

I just now saw the pic. Nice idea on the semi open top. Im thinking of incorporating my controlled leak into the drum and making it adjustable.

el luchador 10-05-2017 05:30 PM

1 Attachment(s)
my existing upside down UDS. I love this thing

el luchador 10-05-2017 05:40 PM

1 Attachment(s)
The new Woo-D-S in progress

I cant wait to burn some stick

ebijack 10-06-2017 04:02 AM

You will need a short/height wise basket. You will want/need at least 3" legs on the basket.
A controlled leak? You want the drum to be able to seal up any leaks after a few cooks or you will not be able to control temps or shutdown the drum when done cooking.
That was my pizza/high temp cooking/searing lid. I use my regular lid for all cooking under 600*, with removable chimney. Looks like [email protected] but works great. 3 5/8" hole for exhaust. Adjustable exh vent even with chimney installed.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...923/k92kxi.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...924/7PuhWj.jpg
You can see one of 2- 1.5" elbows near the top lip. That was an experiment that did not work.
Using the 2 elbows as exhaust , screws up the air flow. Can not get temps above 275* even using enough intake to be cooking at 550* the temps will not get higher. Bad flow. I keep them plugged. I removed the plugs just to show.

el luchador 10-06-2017 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebijack (Post 3882174)
You will need a short/height wise basket. You will want/need at least 3" legs on the basket.
A controlled leak? You want the drum to be able to seal up any leaks after a few cooks or you will not be able to control temps or shutdown the drum when done cooking.
That was my pizza/high temp cooking/searing lid. I use my regular lid for all cooking under 600*, with removable chimney. Looks like [email protected] but works great. 3 5/8" hole for exhaust. Adjustable exh vent even with chimney installed.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...923/k92kxi.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...924/7PuhWj.jpg
You can see one of 2- 1.5" elbows near the top lip. That was an experiment that did not work.
Using the 2 elbows as exhaust , screws up the air flow. Can not get temps above 275* even using enough intake to be cooking at 550* the temps will not get higher. Bad flow. I keep them plugged. I removed the plugs just to show.



This is very good information. Thanks. I thought you used the other lid all the time.

when I say controlled leak, I guess I should have said controllable, Ie adjustable. my goal it to have as much intake air as possible to keep a hot fire, but keep cooking temps around the 250-300 range.

my thought was that if I could have something to exhaust an adjustable amount of heat from the drum, just below the meat, I could achieve this.

for example using a big green egg intake.
so it seems like your 1.5" exhausts achieve exactly what I am looking to do.

I think what I'll do is drill 4 1" holes around the drum right under the meat and then use those to control temp as needed and just cover them up with magnets when not needed.

regarding the basket - I don't even plan to have a basket. Im just going to use some expanded steel as a platform for the wood, put some 3" legs on it, and go.

my current basket is 12" high, 17" diameter, 6" off the bottom. way overkill for anything I would ever cook given how efficient the uds is.

Czarbecue 10-06-2017 09:06 AM

To cook with high heat but have 250 temps you will need a deflector. I recommend a 20” cast iron skillet if you want to mimic the green egg deflector.


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