so, can you get a good seal without the stove rope around the lid?

You should be able to. I got a good fit by flipping my drum ie the bottom became the top. Used a nonWeber dome lid. I think most people have pretty good luck with a Weber lid fitting on to a drum which is right side up.

Good thing the Q doesn't care which way the drum was meant to be as long there is fire below meat:biggrin:

Got Snow?
 

Get Smoking! Sometimes being a teacher has it's perks--snow day. Fired up the Hillbilly Smoker and threw on a bird I defrosted in anticipation of the weather. It's cold up here...all 4, 1inch openings blasting. Temp on side of drum hasn't moved from 215-220 since 20 min after I closed the lid! Tried to do the beer can thing half way through but it was hot and wouldn't fit. The dog has the right idea licking up the suds that were sacrifced...it's Miller Time.
Attachment 37787
My baby...
Attachment 37788
My Girl--getting tipsy...
Attachment 37789

sjm now that's a lid clamp! Off subject I know but did you get that heavy wet snow we got in western Mass.

NICE!! I like the clamp idea. Makes for removing the band a lot easier. I was able to use the drum band to secure the Weber coal bowl flange and the lid sits on top of that. Never thought of using it like that. Can you say Snow Day??

The snow is heavy, wet and thick...a deadly combination in your snow and, ah--other things!

I got the clamp idea somewhere in the first 3500 posts of this thread--can't take credit for it but it does work nicely. Going to HF to get an el-cheapo clamp so that one from the Depot doesn't get destroyed.

Anyone use a cheap charbroil thermo (also from the depot) on their drum? It's garbage...reading around 200-210 on the side. When I hang the digitil in from the exhaust it's closer to 295-300. That's statistically significant! And no, it wasn't hitting the grate! Next mod is a turkey fryer.

I've now modified 3 types of lids for use on a UDS.

Weber 22.5" Kettle lid:
Even though I got the entire grill used on Craig's List I couldn't bring myself to mess it up bending it, so I cut off the "lip" around the top edge of the drum I planned to use, the Weber lid sealed up acceptably. It leaked a little bit so I cleaned up the lid and applied about 1/4" bead of high temp silicon sealer (wood stove sealer) around the step down lip of the Weber lid. The top edge of that UDS needed to be sanded and shaped a touch to insure it wasn't sharp enough to cause harm when reaching down into the UDS, otherwise it was a simple fix. BONUS? 15.00 for a replacement cooking grate for the Weber and I gained an entire functional Kettle out of the deal.

Wal-Mart 22.5" $40 cheapo:
I pillaged this for a variety of parts. I flattened down the entire lip around the outter edge of this lid. It rests flat on the open/rolled edge of an open-ended drum. I'm still in the process of adding this to a flat-top UDS, I'm modifying the hinges slightly and then will be using thick, round flexibe wood-stove rope/seal to make it all fit snug.

Big-Lots 29.00 cheapo kettle:
I snagged one of these because initial measurements looked real good for a nice fit. I ended up having the do some bending around the outter rim to make a good, stable fit. This cause the enamal paint to chip a bit, no worries, sanded and sprayed it flat-black along with the UDS. The drum I used was a sealed drum, so I opened the top can-opener style, then used an angle grinder to make the folded/rolled edge fit with the Big-Lots lid. It didn't seal up very well until I added a 1/4" bead of high-temp silicon sealer, but now works wonderfully.

Each of these examples were different drums, different lids but it all worked out with minimal effort or modification.

My turn!
 

OK, so first off... thanks for the great info... really, everyone! I decided to through the K.I.S.S. method out the window despite a lot of advice to the contrary. Anyhow, here is my UDS:

http://stonejk.blogspot.com/2010/02/smoker.html

Let me know what you think!

thanks for all the good info. I found a 22.5 weber grill only used once for 15.00, and I'm thinking I am not sure about pounding that either. Am not sure what to do. Maybe make the flange that rests on the barrel top so I can use the grill and uds

Nice build jkstone! How'd you do them doors? Did they seal up tight? How well does it hold temp? Lastly, nice Fatty!

Thanks! I used a cutting wheel to cut out the doors, put some sheet metal behind to make a lip for the door to rest on, and used some high temp gasket maker to make a tight seal. I need to work on the lid some more, some smoke leaks there. I also need to make a charcoal basket... I'm using a bowl from my old WSM style smoker right now. I'll tweak the temp control when I get the basket made.

Can I ask why you went with doors?

The top door is so I can access food on the lower cooking rack without taking out the top one. I added the lower door for ease of cleanup and so I can add wood/charcoal if needed.

Seems fair enough. Wish you would have taken more pictures it looks really good.

Here are a few more pics...

I like it. Lots more detail work, but worth it, I'm sure. Any chance you got some bigger pics so we can see the detail work?
Nice drum!

BB he's got a few pics on his blog.
http://stonejk.blogspot.com/2010/02/smoker.html

jkstone you my friend have built yourself one of the nicest UDS'er on this thread IMHO. Very,very nice work.

I attached the originals. I'll get some more pics later.

Oops, try again...

jkstone - I don't see a latch, what holds the door shut?

I used a draw latch, I attached it after taking the pics... you can kind of see them on the pics in the link I posted earlier.

I know it's not the norm to put a door in but you went way outta the norm and did duals. That is so friggin cool. Anyone that doesn't likethe look of that needs there head worked on. I was thinking of doing the one door deal just cause I have the parts and extra material but now I have a new project to work on. I think mine will use woodstove gaskets though. I have two tubes of the red silicone but I think I'll still use the gasket. Thanks

I would have preferred a stove gasket, but used silicon to keep cost down. Plus, the red matched my dolly!

Wow. Pretty cool. I think most people shy away from doors because of the air leaks you can get. But, if you can make em work, then more power to you. Sure does make access easier. Thanks for the pics. I likey.

I've got an idea for the doors that I'd like to try. I would cut the opening out in the drum and them use a donor drum to cut a slightly larger opening to cover the door. My mod wouldn't use a latch though. If magnets are good enough to seal the intakes for many, why wouldn't lining the perimeter of the door with magnets prevent the air escaping? The gauge of the steel would be similar so heat loss should not be a problem. You could use magnet strips if they were strong enough or I was planning on "borrowing" some high powered mags from the physics dept at school.

Do you think silicone would still be necessary? I've got 2 barrels in the yard and might just try this for version 2.0. Probably not anytime soon...wife is due next month so I'll be on lockdown! If anyone thinks it's a good idea try it out and let me know.

I had considered magnets, just make sure you find some that are rated for high heat. Regular magnets (even standard neodinium (sp?) magnets) will lose their power under high heat.

yes... some do deteriorate under heat... but those using fridge magnets dont seem to have an issue...

Drum looks nice. Looks like you got a nice seal on the doors! You use the doors much? I thought about making a drum like that ages ago. Now, I just like 'em plain and ugly as I can. I don't even paint 'em, just let 'em rust.

I would venture to guess that there is a signifigant heat difference and strength needed to hold a door shut inside the barrel versus the heat on the outside the barrel and strength needed to simply bock an intake vent.

I have only cooked (still cooking) on mine once... we'll see how often I use the doors after a few cooks. I don't anticipate using them a lot, but I like the option.

Since the lid was a tad small I had to mash out the lip of the dome so it would fit on the drum. It sat fine on the drum but in a wind I felt that it would blow off and it didn't seal real well. So I sat back and thought......light bulb momennt and I drilled four holes and installed four nuts and bolts. They just happen to angle in on their own and now hold the lid securely. Still did not seal to my likeing so I applied some furnace gasket to the lid. Now with the bolts and gasket I have a secure lid with no leaks. Smoke on......

Pic:
http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/z...2/DSCF5297.jpg

Lid with gasket:
http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/z...DSCF5292-1.jpg

Hope this helps, if not ask away :biggrin::biggrin:.

If you take note the pic of the drum with the lid on it is in use.........

Paul B
SS UDS

Burning out my drum this morning. One step closer.

AWESOME!! Good luck brother...

http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/a...&id=1638801679

I'm sure that there is truth to what you say but I think the defining temp is much higher than our drums achieve. I have often seen people use magnetic probe holders on the grill, and I have used magnetic intake dampers on my UDS at temps above 400 degrees.

Only one way to settle this: FIGHT TO THE DEATH!!!

Or someone could try it. My biggest concern is the temp difference inside the barrel. I noticed during my cook yesterday that I could lay my hand flat on the outside of the barrel, but when I touched the cooking grate... OUCH!!

Now what is disturbing about this thread is the 3 pics of the dog, followed by fire, and meat.... WHAT HAPPENED TO THE DOG?!?

I found a few barrels that I am not sure will work. They used to hold spray-in foam insulation glue. He said the inside is bare metal with some small traces of glue. Do you all think these will be alright if I give it a burn and washing?

check the label on the drum and look up the warnings. some foams contain $hit like iso-cyanurate that break down into cyanide.

HAHA!! She won't stay still long enough to get her in a pot...thats crazy gracie!!:-D

No police or firefighters. Guess I made it through the drum burn out ok. 98 percent of exterior paint gone. Only casualties to report are a few singed eyebrows and eye lashes.:icon_shock1: My kids could not tell that there was anything different about my face, so I guess I am good.:lol: A few more holes to drill, clean up paint, assembly and I will be ready to season my UDS.

did you get the liner out with one burn, or was there no liner?

The drum was sold to me as unlined. So it was just an extra precautionary burn.

Boys and girls, I found a great source for drums. Virgin drums, nothing ever been in them but air!
Dallas Steel Drums
2214 SINGLETON BLVD
DALLAS, TEXAS
75212
(214) 638-7027
Monday – Friday 8:00 am to 4:00 pm
Extra heavy duty drum: $49.00
Removable Bolt / Ring lid
2” & ¾” bung in lid
New drum never used / no liner / metal only
Total cost out the door is: $53.04 I know, it is a little high, but no burn out required! Just build it, season it, and cook in it.

Big Joe

Good price, but freight could get expensive.

I am happy to report that as of today I am part of the weed burner crew. I have a few barrels to try her out on this weekend I hope.

I used the method you are thinking about for the bottom hatch of my tandoor. It works well, but I don't have to worry about air leaks with the tandoor - it is meant to blaze. The hatch I cut is not very big - about the size of a standard brick. The slightly oversized door was cut from the cut off top of the drum.

Jkstone's method has merit - I like the idea of being able to access the lower grate food without taking the lid or top grate groceries off. The bottom lid looks like it would be useful for adding fuel for extra long cooks. However, with doors that big, I wonder if the "crush" strength of the drum is decreased. Might not be somoething worth worrying about if its on a dolly and handled carefully?

Also, I used rare earth magnets (slim and shiny) to keep the door closed and it has worked great, even after many firings.

Thanks for the pics Paul :wink:.

Decide to get some work on the UDS done.... Here's some pics...

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...d/794a6a3c.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...d/639f68ab.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...d/b833f5da.jpg

Do people pressure wash or clean out the drums after the burn out... There's a lot of soot on the upper part of the drum..??

Pressure wash if you have one handy, otherwise just wash it out with a scrub brush and some dish detergent and you're good to go.