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jgh1204 10-04-2007 05:13 PM


Originally Posted by bmarley5780 (Post 473771)
Anyone have experiance with 8 butts on at once?

If you had a kettle lid, you could probably make it work with 2 shelves.

bmarley5780 10-05-2007 08:12 AM

I agree, but being as I need these UDS's (2) done by next weekend for a festival and the fact I waited to the last minute. I cant find any free/cheap kettle lids...

I have bought another barrel, which bring me up to 3. I plan to use one barrel to make extensions for each barrel. This lets me utilize the barrels flat lids :)

Anyways, my question was more geared to the tech. side. How does the barrel perform with that many big meats on, etc....


Smokin Gator 10-05-2007 08:18 AM


Originally Posted by bmarley5780 (Post 473771)
Anyone have experiance with 8 butts on at once?

I haven't done 8 but I have done 6. I used 2 racks and a Weber Kettle lid. The first time I had a much more difficult time keeping the temps up so 225 and the cook took longer than usual. The second time I used more lit briqs to start and let the cooker settle at about 275. After I put the butts on the temps came down to where I like em and held much better.

bmarley5780 10-05-2007 08:42 AM

Gator thanks for the insight.

So basically 1 fully lit chimney into the middle ofa 12 pd bag of Kingsford "should" do?


Smokin Gator 10-05-2007 08:58 AM

I usually start with a heavy half a chimney. When I am going to do a big cook I start with a little more that 3/4.

As far as the amount of charcoal... it seems to vary based on the size of your fire ring. Mine is about 17 or 18 inches in diameter. I have gotten to where I put a large coffee can with both ends cut out in the center of the ring. Then I fill up the ring around the coffee can with briqs. I would say I put about 14 or 15 pounds in. After the chimney briqs are ashed over I dump them in the coffee can and then pull the coffee can out. Then I put my chunks of wood in for flavor and let it rock.

bmarley5780 10-05-2007 01:34 PM

One more question: What is the best tool to cut barrels up?

air nibbler
reciprocating saw?

ipls3355 10-05-2007 02:00 PM

Sorry, I was gonna send you a pic last nite, but had a technological meltdown. I drilled a series small holes along the cut line until I had a slit wide enough for a reciprocating saw, then evened the cut out with a grinder.

Browser 10-05-2007 02:00 PM


Originally Posted by bmarley5780 (Post 474436)
One more question: What is the best tool to cut barrels up?

Good, especially if you use the modern ultra-thin cutting discs (1.5-2mm thick) as they generate little heat and so cut quickly with little distortion. They ain't too good at goin' round corners though.

air nibbler
Again good, little slower and if it's made like mine you risk breaking the damn anvil off if you exert any leverage on it:mad: Will do quite sharp corners and is nice & neat with practice.

reciprocating saw?
I've used a jigsaw (I think you call 'em Saber Saws?) but I've seen one or two brethren using a thing called a Sawzall that look pretty handy. Again, no heat distortion but slower than a grinder.
If you could get to use one a plasma cuter will do nice neat, speedy cuts with little/no heat distortion.
You pays yer money and takes yer choice really:-D

tntitan 10-05-2007 03:34 PM

ok i just found some drums they are green with the words on the side of them light amber product of china what do you guys think should i use them or not

Cre-B-Ce 10-06-2007 11:55 AM

I have a local supplier that sells refurbed, open head 55 gallon drums for $35 and new for $56. They just don't usually keep a whole lot of new ones in stock. The refurbs have been burnt out, dents knocked out and painted. They also have new 85 gallon unlined salvage drums, but they are about $150.00 each. I was thinking I would just build two 55 gallon instead going with one bigger one. I don't think the 85 would be that much bigger to justify the extra cost.

jgh1204 10-06-2007 12:53 PM

Just completed my 2nd UDS. Going to give it to a friend of mine. Here are the materials I used. These instructions are for the non-metal working capable among us(me included).

4 - ¼" x 3.5" stainless steel partially threaded carriage bolts
8 - ¼" stainless steel nuts
These hold the grate.
22" Replacement grate from Academy - $5.99

Charcoal bowl from academy - $4.99(Punched a bunch of holes in this with the step bit)

4 - ½" x 6" black pipe nipple
4 - ½" black pipe caps
8- ½" locking nuts for conduit - steel, not galvanized.
These provide air flow and hold the charcoal bowl

Used a step bit to cut the holes for the pipe. About 3" from the bottom. Used ¼" drill bit to drill the carriage bolt holes about 27" from the bottom

This barrel had to have the lid cut off and I am using the lid from my first UDS as the lid for this one. On my first UDS, I use my weber kettle lid.

This barrel was brand new and had no interior coating, so no need for a burn out. I may hit it with the weed burner just to make sure.

I left the original paint on the outside, I think it will be fine. If it starts to peel, I will let my buddy handle that one.

In the lid, I punched four ½" holes and inserted SS hole caps.

Norcoredneck 10-06-2007 01:13 PM

If anybody has to use hardware with a coating try putting it in muratic acid (pool acid) it will eat it off. Rinse good with water. It will rust quickly so be prepared to put pam or cooking oil on it.

jgh1204 10-06-2007 01:37 PM

Just got to try out my new weed burner. Cool stuff. Hope the no eyebrow look is in.

BBQ101 10-07-2007 12:25 PM

:-D Ok I am hooked. I just finished painting my UDS and fired it up to season it. I used 1 1/4 schedule 40 black gas pipe one for stack one for air control. The reason I did this was so I could hook up my Stoker to the UDS. Well its working just fine. Ramped it up to 250 in about 15 minutes. Decided to go hotter so I kicked it up to 300. It took about 10 minutes to get it up to 300. Ok so I decided to knock it back down to 250 that took about 15 minute.
:wink: I also added a 1 1/4 ball valve to use when I do not use the Stoker. I have to tell you this has been a fun project for not a lot of money. The schedule 40 1 1/4 ball valve was the most expensive piece at $22. I will post pics as soon as I get another Digi Camera.
:eusa_clap Great thread and thanks to all the Farkers who added there ideas on the UDS.

Norcoredneck 10-07-2007 12:43 PM


Originally Posted by bmarley5780 (Post 474436)
One more question: What is the best tool to cut barrels up?

air nibbler
reciprocating saw?

Plasma cutter :biggrin:

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