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So when you cut the expanded steel, the diamond pattern should be vertical to you?
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But I used a fire grate for a 18 inch weber kettle. Built up the side 8 inches. |
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About to paint my UDS, do I paint under the lid or not or doesn't really matter. It is almost bare metal at the moment, still has some paint there. Would prefer to paint it for cosmetics but wont if it will affect my cooking results in some way. (I'm using the drum lid, NOT a weber lid)
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No, you do not want to paint under the lid.
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16" x 16" adjustable bottom grate.
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No paint under the lid. Too close to the food and high heat.
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here we go!
Steel drum and most parts acquired! Build starting shortly. Thank you all for the weeks of reading and unbelievable inspiration.
I will post pics of the build and final Product when its done! Can't wait to start smoking! |
Help. I've done three burns now and can't get a blue smoke burn below 350 degrees. I have a 2" X 7" tall exhaust. 1" valve and a 3/4" valve then added another 3/4" hole. Tried opening the 1" bung also for more exhaust--little temp increase 15 degrees. Fire basket is 17" round and 10" tall, normal 3/4" expanded metal side and weber fire rack, 2 inch legs with ash pan. I used a mixed charcoal and lump the first two times more lump than bricks. Third time about 50/50. Putting 4 fist sized Hickory chunks on top of coal, but not on hot pile. Lighting 10 bricks in a chimney and pouring them in one six inch area( 2 and 3 burn). The first time I put them in a 10" area. OK so here's the problem---220 to 300 degrees only white smoke produced. Opening air to get a Blue smoke produces 350+ temp. Cannot get blue smoke AND 225 to 250 degrees. First burn was ribs, spent two hours trying to get above 225,finally got to 275, ribs not good. Second burn did two whole chickens--yo-yoed between 280 and 350, white smoke the whole time--chicken was terrible. Lots of juices in bottom of drum, had to clean and reburn out for bacteria. With a basket of hickory and the lid ajar, 700 degrees is possible. Third burn for chicken breasts and potatoes. Could not get above 250, white smoke. Added 3/4" hole,blue smoke acheived followed by 375 degrees. Reduced air = 300 degrees and light white smoke. Increase air = 350 dgrees and Blue smoke. Chicken was better but dry.
Any help appreciated. |
It sounds like you might want to try to cut back the amount of charcoal you are lighting , try starting with 6 briquettes and see how you fair out with that. When you starve an already burning fire for oxygen you get white smoke(or worse, black) , so if you are starting with too much fire it would explain why it want to burn cleanly at a higher temperature than you are aiming for. Also , I might cut back on the chunks of wood , 2 fist sized chunks is a lot.
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Recon drum prep...burned it
OK.. Bought a recondition open head drum, drilled some holes and burned it out. Warped the lid a bit. Any best practices to straighten it?
Thanks. Look forward to participating in the forums. -cjd Abscam |
Welcome Abscam!
I'm no help with that one. But I have to ask... why did you leave the lid on to do a burn out of the barrel? |
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
I placed it over it later in the burn to help get rid of the paint on the lid as well as the glue that held the gasket. It wasn't on when the fire was blasting to start... |
Understood. This may be a lose / lose either way because I took the paint off my lid with a wire brush on a drill and it doesn't fit right now when it did before. I heated the gasket with a propane torch, removed it and then burned the gunk out with a torch. Then I wire brushed it with the drill again.
It's a learning thing. :) |
Ok been reading about UDS for awhile and noticed some using 1/2 in nipples and some using 3/4. Which is best size and how many 3 or 4? 1/2 in ball vave or 3/4in? Sorry for the newbie questions just trying to get it right.
Thanks, Lawdog's |
Lawdog - I used 2 nipples and one ball valve, all in 3/4".
In real use I rarely need more than the ball valve, so in my experience 4 would be too many. Enjoy your build! |
Thanks Otterpop. I'll go with the 3 3/4 fittings. Seems like they would work better - more air = more adjustable to me.
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-Rodney http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/pi...pictureid=2115 |
I used four 3/4 inch pipe nipple for mine. I figured I'll only be using two to get the uds to temp and the ball valve for fine temp adjustments.
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Your 2" exhaust should be fine. I use the same setup you are describing as far as charcoal starting,etc. I open all three holes all the way, and dump in the coals.....I leave the valves open until the temp hits about 200 at the grates. Then close two holes and leave one open........it will cruise around 225 for 14 hours. Maybe you have some air leaks or too much smoke wood. |
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two rack questions
This is for all of you that use a two rack UDS. I am building my third UDS and I am wanting to put two racks in this one. Question one is how far down do you put the top rack? I was thinking of 1 1/2 inches from the top and then 7 inches down for rack number two. What do you think or am I totally off. Any and all input is greatly appreciated.
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I have found a barrel at a local machine shop that held a "water-based coolant" He said it has no liner on the inside and is just bare metal. Do you guys think this would work for my barrel? I wasn't sure about the water based coolant having been in it? I can't find a food grade barrel with the open top. I don't have a kettle lid and haven't been able to find one thus far to go with a closed head type barrel.
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I have mine at 5" below and 12" below the lip using a weber lid. This way I can get 2 butts on each rack without touching the lid or easily do beer can chicken on both racks. I have the bolts in place for the optional flower pot heat diffuser which lets me run it exactly like a WSM or take it out and just use the top rack traditional UDS style.
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You'll be just fine with that , Norcoredneck used a barrel that contained water-based machine lubricant in his tutorial which can be seen here.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=43943 Finding a food grade barrel only insures one thing , more work getting it cleaned out. As far as your kettle lid goes , they have a 22.5" grill at BigLots , that sells for $29 , you can use the lid and the grate out of it , not a bad deal really. Good luck. |
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However I have abandoned my pre-drilling of grates and now use the grate-with-leg approach. I can't recall where on this forum, but there are some images. Essentially I make legs for my grates, from like 5 inches to 7 inches. I pre-drill holes for bolts at the lowest setting, where I'd put my heat-shield grate (with some angle iron pieces on it) and then I "stand" my other grates on top. That allows me to be flexible and quickly take things out and swap them around, and they can stand on their own like little tables when not in the grill. |
two racks
Thanks for all the responses, coewar do you have a photo of how you have your racks? Also are the legs zinc or stainless.
Nthole on yours having your lower rack 12 inches below do you have any issues getting burnt or too hot. New to this habit, I am now on my third UDS in less than 2 months, wife really don't complan now that she has found out when I smoke she don't cook. win win.:clap2: |
I've noticed a lot of people putting kettle lids on their UDS. Which is better the lid that came with the drum or a kettle lid? Why choose one over the other? Sorry I'm a newb about to begin making one for the 1st time.
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Choosing a kettle lid allows you to put two racks in your drum , and still have room to smoke tall thing on the top rack , like beer can chicken , or whole turkeys.
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I just got done building mine today. If I can do, then you can do it. I have no building sense at all. I followed all the tips here and it looks great. I can't say it was a cheap build, because I went with a new unlined drum, had to buy a step drill bit, new rack, expanded steel for the basket and stainless steel nuts and bolts. But I built it and I will cook on it. That's the most important thing. Have fun with your build Carl. Good luck.
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Good info. Building a new UDS myself
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a81...lfirstburn.jpg
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My UDS has a flat lid. I put my rack 8 inches from the top. If I want to add a top rack, is 3 inches enough clearance from the lid to cook some baby back ribs? Thanks.
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I spray all of it thoroughly with a cooking oil (olive oil works great, but PAM stuff is fine too.) Inside of the drum too and rubbing it helps. Lid too. Then I heat the drum at least to 350 degrees for at least 30 mins. This will season and seal everything inside and if you do it well, it will have a nice coat that actually won't rub off easily. And once you start cooking, everything will be coated in black stuff. The zinc in the metals there shouldn't pose any problem at this point, even without all this prep. The temperatures that zinc starts coming off the metal is much higher than you'd ever smoke at. Only the charcoal itself gets hot enough. I also heard the zinc poisoning is only if inhaled. When you purchase cooking grates for any grill, they sometimes are stainless steel and sometimes the same grade with potentially zinc in it. I don't have a pic, but there are some on this site. I found some long bolts that either have a head large enough not to fall through the grates, or I got enough fender washers (large washers) and nuts to attach them to the grate and also create "feet" for them so when standing on another grate, they won't fall through. I just used 3 per grate. Some have done 4 legs. And you can adjust the height if needed by just moving the nuts and washers down the bolt. |
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I am thinking about building my pops a uds. He really likes mine. So I am planning on using a weber again for parts. Last time I built my fire basket with the expanded metal and weber charcoal grate. This time I am thinking about just triming the top off the bottom of the weber kettle and using it. How's that work out for folks? Seems much easier and it makes better use of my parts weber kettle.
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I'm visiting Petaluma / Santa Rosa Cal next weekend and looking for a place to get a barrel to build a friend a smoker for while visiting. Does anybody know of a place to find them? I'd prefer a removable top for the build. New is ok as well.
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Anyone know of a place in the Dallas area to get a drum sandblasted on the inside or a reasonable price? Burn Bans make it a bit tough to remove the liner.... I got quotes from $75 to $175
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byounghusband, I don't know where to get it sandblasted, but, I bought a brand new drum that has never been used and does not have a liner. It was alot cheaper than the sandblasting. See the info below.
2214 SINGLETON BLVD DALLAS, TEXAS 75212 For more information email us at [email protected] (214) 638-7027 Fax: (214) 638-3786 Monday – Friday 8:00 am to 4:00 pm Heavy duty drum: $44.50 Extra heavy duty drum: $49.00 Removable Bolt / Ring lid 2” & ¾” bung in lid New drum never used / no liner / metal only Big Joe |
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They were about double what is listed above, thats a great price! |
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