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Bbq Bubba 03-01-2009 11:58 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Try these Bob....

Bbq Bubba 03-01-2009 12:00 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Barbarian (Post 866289)
Can't resist asking what you were drinking when you drilled 1 1/4" holes for 1" nipples????????


And don't drill the exhaust holes if you have been drinking.

Bob's overbored hole excuse....

EatonHoggBBQ 03-01-2009 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dedmete (Post 863504)



Are these washers and bolts galvanized? In the charcoal basket that may be a problem.

Barbarian 03-01-2009 12:08 PM

Bubba, thanks for the clarification, I guess that Bud Light with Lime just put him over the top. Lucky he did not hurt himself.

BigAl 03-01-2009 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barbarian (Post 866310)
Chinese Bob, the galvanized conduit nuts on the intake nipples don't get hot. They are below the fire. I have felt the nipples while cooking and they have never been hot.

I too have felt nipples that were not hot, but they were hard:shock::eusa_clap:icon_bigsmil

Mo-Dave 03-01-2009 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chinesebob (Post 866070)
I got my 85 as some of you saw with Bubba. I drilled my 1 1/4" holes for my 1" nipples and low and behold the holes are too big. My first question is - how do I fill the gap? I thought about putting two mounting pieces and screwing them together through the side of the drum.

Next question - if you had a choice of drilling a 3" hole for a big stack, a 1 1/2 hole for a smaller stack or 8 small holes for exhaust - which would you choose?


Bob I don't see a problem with using the conduit nuts on the inside but if you really don't want to do that than get some 16 gauge metal and if you have a 1'' hole saw cut a hole and then trim the outside edge to about 2''. Bend the corners up so you have something to hold on to and screw it on the pipe. It may take a little effort at first but it will work, mite put a drop or two of vegy oil on to make it a little easier.

I have done this many times when I don't have a nut to back something up. I also put some automotive red gasket sealer around the outside to stop any air leaks, if you take your time it can look good but I always get in a hurry and get a little messy. The red sealer will not hold paint very good is about the only downside I can see with it.

If the pic shows up you can see that I have used a 2'' nipple and it works just tits hehehe. When I get my welder set up the way I want, with gas and smaller wire I am hoping to be able to weld it instead but thats down the road a bit.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e6...100_2209-1.jpg

A 2'' exhaust should be good.
Dave

rocketmanray 03-01-2009 05:36 PM

You know... i had a obvious air leak, and air conditioner duct putty (the gray stuff) solved the problem. It says it's non-toxic, but that doesn't matter because it's on the outside. Comes in a brick and easily rolls out to wrap onto the close nipple.

RMR

Cigarbque 03-01-2009 08:49 PM

Had to get in on this thread before it hit one trillion posts. My first UDS on it's first cook! Thanks all here for the fantastic advice.

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...que/UDS026.jpg

Weiser 03-01-2009 09:12 PM

Please, Stop the Madness!
 
If it isn't SS it more than likely Zinc or Cad plated.
Don't worry about it.
No Baby has been born with two heads as a result of using Galvanized fasteners,
and in fact, there is no report of anyone becoming ill due to the use of same.

Weiser



Quote:

Originally Posted by EatonHoggBBQ (Post 866319)


Are these washers and bolts galvanized? In the charcoal basket that may be a problem.


chinesebob 03-02-2009 12:33 AM

What I found was a hexagon head bushing that fit 1 1/4" on the outside and 1" on the inside. It works great but I may still have to do some minimal welding in order to make it air tight. Though the plumbing putty may be a better way to go.

Pics will follow shortly. The rest of the bushings will be here on Tuesday.

Norcoredneck 03-02-2009 12:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chinesebob (Post 866290)
Conduit locking nuts are almost all galvanized. Can't find them any other way.



1. Whatever
2. Yeah but you've been using 2" your whole life and look where that's got you.
3. Whatever

Bob Most are not galvanized but are cadium plated. Pool acid dunk and water rinse and all is good. I perconally wouldn't worry about it. Also fender washers will work to cover gap.

If the bishing you speak of if from the black pipe section watch welding it because the ones I have seen are a rough cast piece (almost like cast iron)and don't take to welding.

Norcoredneck 03-02-2009 12:56 AM

Also use JB weld instead of putty.

chinesebob 03-02-2009 02:00 AM

excellent advice norco.

Pua'a Kuka 03-02-2009 07:05 PM

Read through all 168 pages, took tons of notes, have battle plans in head, now need materials and a lot of help from the build gods.

Barbarian 03-02-2009 07:07 PM

Just to make sure you ought look through this thread
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=43943

srotkowitz 03-02-2009 10:02 PM

Weber Lid with or without Base Bottom Lip
 
I have read through the posts. Wow. I am ready to build my first drum.

I have a 55 sealed drum for $20 and also p/u a Weber for $20. I am going to cut off the top of the sealed drum with either a chisel or jig saw. I have a couple of questions which may have been answered. But after all these pages its hard to remember exactly what all the advice was.

1. Is there a better way to remove the lid other then a chisel or Jig saw that does not involve buying a special tool (i.e. lid cutter)?

2. The drum had 5-30 weight oil in It. Should I remove the lid and do a cleaning burn or wait till after I have completed construction?

3. As far as seasoning should I burn, clean then apply pam or some other oil?

4. After the burn off what is the best way to clean/remove the residual crud from inside the barrel?

5. I have seen a few Weber lids. Some are directly on the grill. Others have cut the bottom lip off of the Weber base and placed it in side the grill. Is there a problem with placing directly on the drum? I seem to get a pretty tight fit. Maybe to tight. I do not know/believe it is air tight all the way around.

6. If I go with the bottom base of the Weber and cut it off (may be two inches total), how do you attach it to the drum when you place it inside? Is there an issue with air leakage? I saw some pictures of a members grill that used a Weber top and it leaked all over the outside of the drum because he did not have a good seal.

Thanks for all your help. It is an impressive collection of knowledge.
Scott

Radical Rick 03-03-2009 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by srotkowitz (Post 868011)
I have read through the posts. Wow. I am ready to build my first drum.

I have a 55 sealed drum for $20 and also p/u a Weber for $20. I am going to cut off the top of the sealed drum with either a chisel or jig saw. I have a couple of questions which may have been answered. But after all these pages its hard to remember exactly what all the advice was.

1. Is there a better way to remove the lid other then a chisel or Jig saw that does not involve buying a special tool (i.e. lid cutter)?

2. The drum had 5-30 weight oil in It. Should I remove the lid and do a cleaning burn or wait till after I have completed construction?

3. As far as seasoning should I burn, clean then apply pam or some other oil?

4. After the burn off what is the best way to clean/remove the residual crud from inside the barrel?

5. I have seen a few Weber lids. Some are directly on the grill. Others have cut the bottom lip off of the Weber base and placed it in side the grill. Is there a problem with placing directly on the drum? I seem to get a pretty tight fit. Maybe to tight. I do not know/believe it is air tight all the way around.

6. If I go with the bottom base of the Weber and cut it off (may be two inches total), how do you attach it to the drum when you place it inside? Is there an issue with air leakage? I saw some pictures of a members grill that used a Weber top and it leaked all over the outside of the drum because he did not have a good seal.

Thanks for all your help. It is an impressive collection of knowledge.
Scott

a good jig saw and a quality blade such as 18 tooth per inch will make a very clean cut, maybe no grinding! :wink:
sounds like your lid is what everyone is looking for! Your not gonna be removing it very often once you learn to control it and trust it.
IF YOUR LOOKIN THEN YOUR NOT COOKIN! :razz:

jaronimo 03-03-2009 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by srotkowitz (Post 868011)
I have read through the posts. Wow. I am ready to build my first drum.

I have a 55 sealed drum for $20 and also p/u a Weber for $20. I am going to cut off the top of the sealed drum with either a chisel or jig saw. I have a couple of questions which may have been answered. But after all these pages its hard to remember exactly what all the advice was.

1. Is there a better way to remove the lid other then a chisel or Jig saw that does not involve buying a special tool (i.e. lid cutter)?

2. The drum had 5-30 weight oil in It. Should I remove the lid and do a cleaning burn or wait till after I have completed construction?

3. As far as seasoning should I burn, clean then apply pam or some other oil?

4. After the burn off what is the best way to clean/remove the residual crud from inside the barrel?

5. I have seen a few Weber lids. Some are directly on the grill. Others have cut the bottom lip off of the Weber base and placed it in side the grill. Is there a problem with placing directly on the drum? I seem to get a pretty tight fit. Maybe to tight. I do not know/believe it is air tight all the way around.

6. If I go with the bottom base of the Weber and cut it off (may be two inches total), how do you attach it to the drum when you place it inside? Is there an issue with air leakage? I saw some pictures of a members grill that used a Weber top and it leaked all over the outside of the drum because he did not have a good seal.

Thanks for all your help. It is an impressive collection of knowledge.
Scott



1. jigsaw works fine if you did not get an openhead barrel.
2. remove the lid, drill the vent holes in the bottom, then do a burn. You need the vent holes in the bottom to get enough O2 for the burn.
3. and 4. after the burn I wirebrushed the inside manually. It took a few minutes. Then I wiped it down with a damp rag, dried it, and sprayed on a bunch of Pam.
5. I have no comments yet on weber lid sealing.
6. I am shopping around for a weber lid ( or possibly a Uniflame because it comes with hinges) to attach to my UDS. It appears that the domed lids do a good job of letting the nastiness that forms on the inner barrel drain down. The problem seems that much of said nastiness leaks out. I have a thought about welding a 1 inch wide strip of sheet metal inside the lid to create a lip that will cause said nastiness to drip inside the drum and not ruin my beautiful paintjob. ( editors note: since it has been too cold here, last night was 6 degrees, I have not given my drum its beautiful paint job yet. But it will happen, and there will be pictures! )

Pua'a Kuka 03-03-2009 01:27 PM

I don't remember seeing this question, but can a heavy aluminum pizza pan be used as an ash catcher, or will it melt from the heat of the fire box?

sfbbqguy 03-03-2009 01:53 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pua'a Kuka (Post 868438)
I don't remember seeing this question, but can a heavy aluminum pizza pan be used as an ash catcher, or will it melt from the heat of the fire box?

Here is a charcoal basket with $3.00 aluminum pizza pan for ash catcher...works real good. I believe it's a 16" pizza pan (might be 18").

Pua'a Kuka 03-03-2009 02:02 PM

That is exactly what I have, so my materials list is getting smaller by the hour

2K1TJ 03-03-2009 06:56 PM

Just finishing up my new UDS. I have a question that I haven't seen mentioned.

Do you remove the gasket around the drum lid? I know it'll seal better with it, but I'm afraid it'll melt and/or give off gasses or fumes from heating up.

Norcoredneck 03-03-2009 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2K1TJ (Post 868704)
Just finishing up my new UDS. I have a question that I haven't seen mentioned.

Do you remove the gasket around the drum lid? I know it'll seal better with it, but I'm afraid it'll melt and/or give off gasses or fumes from heating up.


Definately. Some come out easily, some not. If you have difficulty heat it a little, use a toothbrush type wire brush followed by WD40 and a little brushing and wash with a degreaser, or handful of Tide in warm water.

2K1TJ 03-03-2009 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norcoredneck (Post 868709)
Definately. Some come out easily, some not. If you have difficulty heat it a little, use a toothbrush type wire brush followed by WD40 and a little brushing and wash with a degreaser, or handful of Tide in warm water.


Thanks. :wink:

Barbarian 03-03-2009 08:14 PM

The redneck is correct, it works great.

Bbq Bubba 03-03-2009 08:20 PM

Yup, remove the gasket, it actually seals better without.:cool:

jcinadr 03-04-2009 10:10 AM

My uds is still a work in process - but am getting closer to pictures. My fire basket is 12"x48" of expanded mesh, with a 14" diameter expanded mesh grate 3" from the bottom.

Initially I used the 18" el cheapo table top grill for an an ash pan. It worked, but I felt it was keeping my temperature down. I switched to a 16" commercial pizzia pan this weekend. It is much thicker/stronger than the el cheapo grill.

Temp was marginally better - but was working with minimal charcoal (only had sausage and abt's on the grill. Will run a full test again next smoking.

Anyway, I really liked the Acemart pizzia pan - it was about $8 and about 3/32 thick.

Pua'a Kuka 03-04-2009 10:58 PM

Trying to do this build on the cheap. I was able to score a free King Cook thermometer for frying, can I use this in my barrel?, or do I need to use the types that everybody seems to have?.

Weiser 03-04-2009 11:08 PM

Should work. Drill the 1/8" hole about a 1/4" above your grate.
You may have to wallow out the hole a bit to get the probe to slide in. Tighter is better, but you already knew that.:-P
That probe is only 5" long but it will get you close enough.

Weiser

Dr_KY 03-05-2009 02:36 AM

Below the grate works better for me.

Weiser 03-05-2009 10:37 AM

You're right Doc! I mis-spoke.
Mine is just below also. Above would be a real pain,
especially if you placed a hunk of cool meat on it.

Weiser

michiana mark 03-05-2009 11:03 AM

[quote=jcinadr;853483]Finished up my first UDS this weekend, and test fired it. (Ok finished is a bit of an overstatement - there are still needs a custom paint job, handles, smoke stack, and of course a bottle opener). The test fire left me with a lot of unanswered issues.

The pit currently has 3-3/4x1/2 bushings (set at 3" on outside), the 3"x18" cheep grill ash pan, and a fire basket made of #9 3/4 expanded mesh - 14" diameter, 12" tall - with the fire grill set at 3", and a 2" conduit fitting smokestack.

With a load of approximately 5lbs of terrible wood, and 5lbs of the bottom of a bag of lump, I got 175 with the valve open, 225 with the valve and one nipple open, and 300 with the valve and both nipples open.

Those temps seemed low to me. But hard to say if I work it with 10lbs of dryer lump (and a smoke stack) what the temps will end up. I am worried about the 3" height of the ask tray - I could cut it down, or ventilate it. Seems overkill to change to 1" nipples, but wonder if the bushings 3/4x1/2 bushings are restricting draft. end quote]

Try using charcoal, mine runs better versus the lump. Also loose the ash catcher, it sounds like your fire basket sits to far down into it. Got to let it breathe. If after that you don't get higher temp, you can always add another air inlet. Sounds like you have enough exhaust. Smoke on!!!!!

Weiser 03-05-2009 03:09 PM

I agree with dumping the ash pan, sounds like the sides are too high and restricting airflow.
In my opinion, 3-3/4" Intakes are plenty.
I'd be much more concerned with the Exhaust end.

Question: Are you talking about 3/4 inch Intake holes in the drum? I'm proally wrong, but it sounds like you may be using 1/2" nipples. Spank me. :|
Mine runs fine up to 350* but then again I'm using Redneck's 8 1/2" hole system for Exhaust.

Weiser


[quote=michiana mark;870040]
Quote:

Originally Posted by jcinadr (Post 853483)
Finished up my first UDS this weekend, and test fired it. (Ok finished is a bit of an overstatement - there are still needs a custom paint job, handles, smoke stack, and of course a bottle opener). The test fire left me with a lot of unanswered issues.

The pit currently has 3-3/4x1/2 bushings (set at 3" on outside), the 3"x18" cheep grill ash pan, and a fire basket made of #9 3/4 expanded mesh - 14" diameter, 12" tall - with the fire grill set at 3", and a 2" conduit fitting smokestack.

With a load of approximately 5lbs of terrible wood, and 5lbs of the bottom of a bag of lump, I got 175 with the valve open, 225 with the valve and one nipple open, and 300 with the valve and both nipples open.

Those temps seemed low to me. But hard to say if I work it with 10lbs of dryer lump (and a smoke stack) what the temps will end up. I am worried about the 3" height of the ask tray - I could cut it down, or ventilate it. Seems overkill to change to 1" nipples, but wonder if the bushings 3/4x1/2 bushings are restricting draft. end quote]

Try using charcoal, mine runs better versus the lump. Also loose the ash catcher, it sounds like your fire basket sits to far down into it. Got to let it breathe. If after that you don't get higher temp, you can always add another air inlet. Sounds like you have enough exhaust. Smoke on!!!!!


Dr_KY 03-05-2009 04:28 PM

If you want better temps and controll then only use sizable lump and not the shake from the bottom of the bag, it tends to choke. You may also want to blend it ( as mentioned above ) with some good charcoal.

I think that running with one hole and a valve at 225 is perfect and that's where mine runs al say long.

I only have three intakes too and it's perfect.

Norcoredneck 03-05-2009 04:55 PM

Ok my take on this. On the ash catcher, When you start your fire you start it at the top of the pile so if it is a 12" tall basket say filled say 10" then the actual coals are not buried or shouded by the pan. Pan is an option not a necessity. Helps in easier clean up. I have found lower temps usually mean not enough coals lit at start, damp or old charcoal, incorrect reading on thermometer, or too long of nipples used which causes poor draw. Lets see a pic of each component of build.

Norcoredneck 03-05-2009 05:02 PM

Went back and read it again. The 3/4" X 1/2" bushings are restricting the airflow. The first build I did I used them for a cleaner close look. Had to have 4 to get temps. Since went to 3/4" nipples with caps and it seems to be just about perfect.

leanza 03-05-2009 09:51 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Here's my contribution.

Smoke & Beers 03-06-2009 12:58 AM

Here's my crew...
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...g?t=1236322499
(Left to Right) # 2 is the one with the Flat-top... Silverbelly is my original UDS... I've been averaging a smoke a week on him since I built him last September. And finally, #3 is the tall one...he scored a rescued Weber Kettle bottom for a lid...a few mods and it worked out pretty good...

Norcoredneck 03-06-2009 02:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leanza (Post 870579)
Here's my contribution.

Glad to see you have taken the leap. Pretty soon all So Cal Brethren will have at least 1 UDS, oh except Country. And let me clarify that, At least one complete UDS except Country and Brian. Must be something in the first name. :biggrin:

schoonch 03-06-2009 09:45 AM

Hey Norco,

What's this pool acid you speak of? Can you be a little more specific with the instructions (how long of a soak)? Would one get the same results by burning the galvanized fittings or is an acid bath the way to go?

Thanks!

michiana mark 03-06-2009 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norcoredneck (Post 870355)
Went back and read it again. The 3/4" X 1/2" bushings are restricting the airflow. The first build I did I used them for a cleaner close look. Had to have 4 to get temps. Since went to 3/4" nipples with caps and it seems to be just about perfect.


Yup, had to reread this myself. Not enough intake here. Replace with pipe nipples and you should see a big difference.:wink:

jcinadr 03-06-2009 02:38 PM

I have switched to pipe nipples and a pizza pan ash catcher. An ATB run with 3lbs of recycled lump was promising - will probably do another overnight BBQ next weekend as a better test. Thanks for all the imput.

Weiser 03-07-2009 07:22 PM

New Drum Today.
 
4 Attachment(s)
This one is a keeper!
Took my old Weber lid to the drum guy and searched through at least fifty drums till I found one that fit just right.
All of these drums are a bit different, a tape will be of little help. Take your lid! Dunno who suggested that back on page 50 something,but is Great advice.

I didn't want one with a sprayed on liner, that narrowed the selection down a bit. Went to the TOXIC area!
Several hundred of them there. Found a fit and flipped the guy a twenty as that was what I paid him for the last one.
He gave me five in change. Cool, 15 Bucks for a perfect one.
He de-headed it and threw in something else in that will serve as my next project Gratis!

Weiser
Life Is Good!

DaveT 03-07-2009 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smoke & Beers (Post 870645)
Here's my crew...
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...g?t=1236322499
(Left to Right) # 2 is the one with the Flat-top... Silverbelly is my original UDS... I've been averaging a smoke a week on him since I built him last September. And finally, #3 is the tall one...he scored a rescued Weber Kettle bottom for a lid...a few mods and it worked out pretty good...

I like the "bottom for a lid" idea. looks like it is a lot taller. More room for say a Turkey.

Norcoredneck 03-08-2009 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weiser (Post 872036)
This one is a keeper!
Took my old Weber lid to the drum guy and searched through at least fifty drums till I found one that fit just right.
All of these drums are a bit different, a tape will be of little help. Take your lid! Dunno who suggested that back on page 50 something,but is Great advice.

I didn't want one with a sprayed on liner, that narrowed the selection down a bit. Went to the TOXIC area!
Several hundred of them there. Found a fit and flipped the guy a twenty as that was what I paid him for the last one.
He gave me five in change. Cool, 15 Bucks for a perfect one.
He de-headed it and threw in something else in that will serve as my next project Gratis!

Weiser
Life Is Good!

Now all you need is a galvanized charcoal basket and hardware!:twisted:

rockyathabaska 03-10-2009 11:34 AM

Hi guys,
newby to the bretheren here.Been reading the thread for days now and I'm pumped!After scrounging around for awhile I bought a reconditioned drum [burned out and sprayed i\s with steel shot] with removeable top and two bungs.
Last night I drilled 3 holes for the 3-3\4 nipples; one with ball valve,sprayed her i\s with veg oil, loaded a ssbbq veggi wok thing full of kingsford 4" up from the bottom and lit er up.After a bit of experimenting with caps and valves I got it cruising @ 225 for 5 hours before losing temp.Coals were ashed over and could've used a giggle.I'm so impressed!I now have to source out some expanded steel for a real charcole basket and rig up some bolts to support my rack.I want to get cooking soon, my brother's 50 is Friday and I'm thinkin pork!

thank so much for all the great ideas;this forum rocks!

Rockyathabaska

P.s.do you guys figure I could use a longer exhaust tube and bring my new uds inside to heat my igloo?I'll post pics when I learn how to.

dbeast420 03-10-2009 01:26 PM

I finally did it.....

I have such a wonderful wife.
After months of reading and rereading this post and talking about how bad I wanted one and how efficient they are,she flipped me the credit card last week and told he to go get the stuff.


I found a clean open top and gathered the necessary parts for the build and finally got started this morning around 9:30.

2 1/2 hours and 3 beers later(I drink slow) She 's done and on her seasoning run. Caught her on the way up and she's been holding right between 240 and 250 for the last 2 1/2 hours.

3 intakes,1 open and the ball valve somewhere round 1/4 open and she's chugging right along. Still need to put handles and a shelf on but for right now she's doing great:-D Now all N need it a remote thermo and a weber lid

Thanks for all of the great advice. The build went smooth as a baby's bottom.

bbq lover 03-10-2009 02:01 PM

we need pictures beast420

jd-santaclarita 03-10-2009 02:41 PM

Hi Guys - I am getting to the final stages of my UDS. I have the expended metal and charcoal grate and bolts to build the charcoal basket identical to Norco's example. The only deal is i thought i was getting a welder and a visit from someone who is a welder....that could help me weld it all up....long story short those 2 things are not coming together. Can someone steer me to a weldless version of this charcoal basket. I already bought the stuff, so i dont want to go with a different version of basket...hopefully there is a weldless version of this basket out there. I cant seem to find it though. Any thoughts?

Thanks all,
JD

blues brother 03-10-2009 03:06 PM

SON OF A MONKEY!!
Just finished reading entire thread for the second time...it didn't get any shorter the second time around.
Started on my UDS last weekend. So far so good...except for the angle grider fitted with a cup brush getting caught in my shirt and doing a number on my belly...(too much whiskey mod). I will post pics as soon as I figure out how.
My thanks to all that have posted their ideas.


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