Did I get the 5000th post?????
Paul B SS UDS |
Put me down for an XXL. I like my t-shirts baggy with the tail untucked.
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Oh, and ill need a XXXL...too much pork, ive been eating. LOL
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God I love that idea! I'll take 7 Large (one for every day of the week).
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I'm glad y'all like the design, but I don't want this to
seem like I'm hawking my wares, so to speak, especially in the greatest Drum Smoker Thread of all time. If the Mods think this demeans this thread in any way, please move it out of here. It was not my intention. |
OK..start a new thread that can be the 2nd greatest thread...DO EET!
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http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...t=thanksgiving http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...sic+Dr.+Pepper http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=43943 And there is the Peanut thread. But then again this was originally a build thread. |
Congrats armor! You need a cookie for being # 5000. Maybe a rib in our case?
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1st post for me. I am brand new to the forum and my head hurts from all the reading, i am about 2/3 the way done with the readings. anyways....i have a question...
I got a food grade barrel, it had honey in it before i got it. (honey sticker is still on it and it smells like honey). the lining in it looks like a light coat of tan spray paint. Anyways i live in a area where there is no way i can blaze a huge fire in this barrel. I have been informed that i will be fined from the community and possibly the city if reported. Anyways, i am sad that i am going to miss out on the roaring fire but i was thinking.... Can i just have the drum sandblasted inside and out??? Will it take care of everything that causes concern. If this is an ok idea Then when i get it back home from the sandblaster what shouldd my next step be, cooking oil and a small fire before rust comes around? |
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Can't wait to see your drum. |
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what should i do to the barrel when i get it back from sand blasting? Now i just need to find a place to sandblast this thing. I have never had anything sandblasted so i am not sure what price i might be looking at. (time to get the yellow pages out) |
@ Stiffy You don't think these drums are to thick for those knock out punches to cut. I thought that the drums were 18 gauge and the max for the knock out punches 10 gauge mild steel, aluminum, fiberglass and plastic. Did you use the knock out punches.
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Dang it I knew that I was not using my brain as usual, So the harbor freight Knockout punches will work just fine then. |
I have sandblasted all 3 that I built. After blasting I painted the exterior and finished the build doing nothing to inside at this time. It actually sat in garage painted with lid on for a few days after painting and inside did not rust. After build I sprayed the inside down with pam and fired it up to season. If I remember I put a chicken in so I would get some grease dripping into coals and just let it cook into oblivion. Mainly was learning to control temps. Just don't let temps get away..better to start shutting down air intakes before you reach desired temps. Once they get passed what you are looking for it will take some time to get them back down.
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Arizona is nothing but desert. What are they worried about burning? Or is it a pollution issue?
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Awesome educational video there Norcoredneck.
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If I used a punch I would need a 1" inch chassis punch Correct. Since they are sized in real dimensions |
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http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...k/IMG_3039.jpg http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...k/IMG_3040.jpg |
Here is my first build, kept it basic. I smoked a 3-2-1 fattie in it last night after it had been seasoning for 6 hours, think the temp was a little high it was ok but a little overdone. Now I just need to get to Costco and get some ribs.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2703/...28a6a859a2.jpg Still a little rust in the bottom, it is really cleaner than it looks (wire brushed to to bare metal), after I Pam'd the in side it made it look black and red, reflections I guess. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/...6777a31061.jpg Made my handle out of a chunk of purple heart I had, did a rough dove tail, wish I would have made the handle run over the sides... next time. The lid came from another drum so the fit was not tight so I just clamped it. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/...964224d352.jpg |
Great job. Gonna make some fine grub.
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Here is a worthy set
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053 Or a single http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053 |
Looks good d0od! Cool handle idea...nice personal touch.
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I have cooked on my uds a couple of times. each time i got some water standing in the bottom of the drum.my smoke has a foul smell to it also using kingsford and some small chunks of hickory. smoke smells like burning paper.
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What's it cost to sand blast a barrel? If it's not too much, might go that route on barrel #2.
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Call around and get some quotes. I'm going the sand blasting route, myself. I have found prices from $30.00 to $40.00 for sandblasting the inside and outside down to bare metal.
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i was just asking about this on the previous page. I am going to sanblast mine as well to bare metal. After i get it back from the sandblaster what should i do immediately to keep the barrel in good condition leading up to my very first smoke on a UDS. |
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For a barrel, once you get to bare, paint it outside and grease or pam it well on the inside. You can heat it up later but it must have some kind of coating to keep it from rusting. It can stay unheated for a relatively long time with just a fat coating but eventually the fat will go rancid if not seasoned in, if that happens you just wash it out well with soap and water and rub id down again with the fat of your choice. The science behind doing a seasoning burn is to carbonize the hydrocarbons in the fat to provide a tough almost non-stick layer baked onto the drum. The same way you would season a black iron skillet or Dutch oven. The best seasoning is done in the 400 - 500 degree range but not much over or you too much of a burned smell and may flash fire the oil and not really get the desired effect. The pores in the metal are opened well up to accept the coating as it fills in the tiny little pockets that are created giving it something adhere well to. Just my .02, hope it helps, Smoke on! |
Keep it next to your bed!!! :biggrin::biggrin:
Just kidding......surface rust won't hurt any thing or you could spray it down with pam until your first time...... Paul B SS UDS |
d0od: Looking good!
brotherdb: Great tips! |
Very Simple Stainless UDS
First, my thanks to all the great contributions of the Brethren and Sistren in the UDS Thread. My goal was to use best ideas I saw to produce a very simple stainless UDS.
This has a Weber Performer Lid with the built-in thermostat and the stainless draft door from Big Green Egg. http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...moke/SSUDS.jpg Removable lid seal insert made from old Bar-B-Kettle bottom cut to leave 2" w/ Rutland stove gasket attached to it with high-temp silicon. http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...bleLidSeal.jpg (Trial run last night was a 14 lb brisket packer, cooked at 300 degrees until probe tender in 5 1/2 hours. Outdoor temperature was low 20's w/ snow showers. Cooked it Lockhart style with outstanding results -- thank you Funk for all the great info you have shared.) I am going to add handles, but not much more. I like the simplicity. |
advise needed on first use of UDS
Thanks for all the great cooments and directions for building a UDS.
I just finished my UDS using the following plans: - burned out barrel and wire brushed it clean. - used flat top for lid with 2" bung hole for outlet vent. - made 8"h x 13.5"d charcoal basket with 3/4" expanded metal and 13.5" Weber grate on 3.5" bolts for legs. Also have alum pizza pan for ash pan. - Three 3/4" close pipe nipples for air inlets 2" off bottom. (2 with caps and one with 3/4" ball valve) - 22.5" Weber meat grate set 24" above charcoal basket (27" off bottom). Have thermometer 1" below meat grate. I used Kingsford briquets for my cooking trial run of pork spare ribs. I lit about 1/4 of a chimney and set it in a coffe can to the edge of the basket loaded with about 10 lbs of briquets. With all inlets open, the UDS came up to 250F fairly easily for the run. Then I capped 2 inlets and tried to control with the valve only. I had to keep opening and capping one inlet to control between 230 to 270F. It didn't seem to be stable, either too hot or too cool. Then eventually it wanted to died out. So I opened the second small (about 1") bung hole in the top and the UDS seemed to draft better. I was able to get control at 230 - 250F with only the inlet valve. The only problem (I think?) I have now is that the fire wants to choke out with ash build-up. I had to shake the drum too often it seemed (every hour) or open it and rack the coals around to drop some ash. Overall I was please with the results but don't really see it being able to run 8 - 10 hrs almost unattended like I here some people are doing. Any suggestions on helping my ash build up problem would be appreciated or any mods I need to make to the design that may help. |
3 Attachment(s)
New to this and landed my first drum.
I had read 330+ pages and i am on information overload. This leads me to a few questions that i sill am not sure about because i cant remember what was said within the 330 pages of readings. 1. My top has two holes in it already one about 2 1/2 inches and one about 1 1/2 inches. Should i just use one of these for the top vent, or should i drill the 6 to 8 smaller holes in the top.Why do some drill all these holes? I am brand new to smoking so i would like to do the one that is easier to control temps/user friendly 2. People talk about expanded metal alot in this forum but i am stll not sure what is ment by this. (please dont bash me, i really am unsure) |
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Weather let up a little . I went out to shed to check for a 1" hole saw. All my hole saws were hammered, so I went to town and bought one of the rigid that norco had links to. I have all the parts now just waiting for weather to clear up so that I can start assembly.
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http://expandedmesh.cn/index.html Lots of people use it to biuld the coal baskets. They buy a long sheet and then roll it and secure the ends with bolts to make the basket. Or like I did, cut it up into plates and weld them together. Your drum has the bungs on the lid so you can just use those. Some guys get threaded pipe and screw it into the larger hole and make a smoke stack. Most that drill all those holes do so because the lid they have doesn't have the bungs so they create their own exhaust. Nice drum. |
Sweet thanks man, i am on my way to find some parts and get this thing started as soon as i get it sandblasted out.
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what will you do about the smaller bung hole, it looks like plastic ?
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The smaller one usually has a steel plug in it as well. If it's threaded, you might want to take the lid to the store with you so that you can test fit the threaded pipe. If the smaller bung has no steel cap and is not threaded, you can always use that smaller hole to run therm wires through etc. And at worst maybe plug it with a cork if it doesn't have a steel plug and is not threaded.
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